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Beltramo's Red Burgundy Tasting

Menlo Park, California

Tasted March 12, 2011 by drwine2001 with 588 views

Flight 1 (9 notes)

Red
2009 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Bourgogne France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
Medium with pale edge. Brambly, green nose does not really fit with its berry-like blue fruit that is presented in an almost carbonic maceration style. Light body, very tart acidity. There is no shortage of fruit here, but the balance seems off and the wine is a crazy quilt of disparate smells and flavors.
Red
2008 Dupont-Tisserandot Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Pungent, earthy nose. The fruit takes a back seat to a highly structured, light, lean, tight wine. Extremely high acid and a very tart finish make this difficult to warm up to. Is this the poster child for the downside of 2008?
Red
2008 Sylvain Cathiard Vosne-Romanée France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée
Light tint. Pretty nose of black fruit and flowers. Elegant and light bodied; much more stylish and less dense than the Dupont-Tisserandot. Well focused fruit and a soil-filled finish that has good punch. Here the high acidity is refreshing without being bracing since it is adequately covered by some fruit. That said, this is a horrible value for a village Vosne.
Red
2008 Domaine Joseph Voillot Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Pale. Anise and earth aromatics. Good amplitude and pretty nice feel. Totally propelled by soil-it is hard to appreciate or describe the fruit. Tannic finish. This could definitely use some more flesh but is not as austere and charmless as it could be, so props for that at least. If this does not sound like a ringing endorsement, well, it is not, but I am generally "allergic" to Pommard, so take these comments in that light.
Red
2007 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Medium ruby. Forthcoming fragrance of earthiness more than fruit. Lovely weight and feel. This is the first of the wines today to have some sap and real buffering fruit. Beautiful Gevrey mixture of red fruit and earth. Acidity is there but buried. Terrific lingering finish. One of my favorites in the flight and well above class for a village wine.
Red
2006 Serafin Père et Fils Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Baudes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Medium color. Perfumed with spicy red fruit and herbs. Medium weight. Sweet, crisp red fruit comes to the fore over time, but it could use more definition. Not as smooth or as long as the Fourrier, and the finish is raspy. Overall, still nice wine.
Red
2006 Frédéric Magnien Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Light to medium red. Stemmy black fruit nose. Generous entry with blackberry fruit that lacks the focus and detail one would like from a Vosne Premier Cru. Good acidity, fairly tannic finish, simple at present. Unfortunately, nothing special.
Red
2005 Dominique Gallois Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Fairly deep ruby. Black licorice scents. Large scaled, rich wine with red/black fruit that is simple now. However, it does sweeten in the glass, and both a significant level of tannins sneaks up, and the finish is more interesting and just full of soil. This is embryonic and I could see it gaining interest and complexity over another decade of aging. Clearly better than my very first impression.
Red
2005 Camille Giroud Chapelle-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru
Moderately deep color. Candied berries and smoke on the nose. Big, powerful, backward wine with a lot held in reserve. Natural sweetness of fruit, some wood, more acidity than initially apparent, and a long, ripely tannic finish that manages to retain some welcome austerity. This is not nearly ready but is serious stuff with exciting potential (in 20 years, perhaps?).
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