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33 Rieslings, from sparkling to TBA

Trondheim Norway

Tasted June 10, 2011 by ktrh with 847 views

Introduction

A very nice, and much anticipated, tasting of Riesling at our home with eight pleasant, knowledgeable and thirsty tasters. A few of the wines have been re-tasted in the days following the tasting and hence the tasting note updated for a few of the wines.

Flight 1 - Sparkling (1 note)

White - Sparkling
1990 Weingut Baron Knyphausen Riesling Extra Brut Sekt Germany, Rheingau
82 points
Still good but rather oxidized fruit and probably it has seen its prime a few years back

Flight 2 - Dry (4 notes)

White
2004 Georg Breuer Rüdesheimer Berg Schloßberg Riesling Germany, Rheingau
91 points
Very closed nose; all I'm able to pick up is some mineral typical Rüdesheimer scents. In the mouth very large body, excellent mineraly, a ton of acidity but at the same time an excellent elegance. A touch of bitterness in the finish. It grows and develops further in the glass and over the next five days. This was consumed at least 3-5 years too young, so hold on to your bottles.
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2004 Weingut Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Trocken Erstes Gewächs Germany, Rheingau
93 points
More open on the nose than the Berg Schlossberg. Pure and intense aromatics of lemon, apples and the typical riesling minerality; not tropical but very true Rheingau Erstes Gewächs. On the palate it has a sweeter initial hit than the Berg Schlossberg. Enormous intensity, full bodied and sensational acidity. It just grows and grows as it opens up, all the way backed up by an amazing intensity without going over the top. Good length. 93-94points for now, will improve further.
The third best wine of the night
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2001 Weingut Knoll Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
83 points
The nose has some dirty and off notes, quite developed? In the mouth it is a bit coarse and while there is some acidity in the finish it lacks acidity in the start- and mid palate compared to the other wines. Harsh finish. Similar notes the next day.
Surprisingly developed, could this have been a bad bottle?
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2001 Dr. Bürklin-Wolf Forster Pechstein Riesling Germany, Pfalz
88 points
Nose of stone fruit like apricot and peach. Lots of ripe fruit. In the mouth the fruit follows, the maturity is just about right for me. It overtly acidic. Nice balance and a good finish, where the acidity finally kicks in.
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 3 - Kabinett (4 notes)

White
2007 Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
88 points
(AP 03-08) Typical nose, although slightly closed. In the mouth the acidity is rather aggressive and for a kabinett it is very powerful. High concentration and minerality. Enormous potential
1 person found this helpful Comment
White
2007 Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
85 points
Very fruity and accessible compared to two of the other 2007s. True to its classification and vineyard, however perhaps a bit too simple and perhaps not as much acidity as I would've preferred.
White
2007 Weingut Reinhold Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
90 points
Closed nose, but in the mouth extremely good fruit and perfectly balanced sweetness with nice acidity. After a week it is still holding on, with excellent acidity, gorgeous taste and a very long firm finish. 90+
The best wine of the flight for drinking right now, and will probably improve a bit over the next five years, and then probably drink well for another ten years at least.
White
1991 Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern Erbacher Marcobrunn Riesling Kabinett Germany, Rheingau
82 points
Quite tired now, but not gone. A simple wine, but decent considering the price

Flight 4 - Spätlese (4 notes)

The spätlese flight turned out to be a bit disappointing. This is usually my favorite style but they did not show well today.

White - Off-dry
2004 Martin Müllen Trarbacher Hühnerberg Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
81 points
Closed nose. Immediately almost no fruit on the nose. In the mouth a lot of minerality, but also a harsh bitterness finish (orange oil?). A very strange wine, did not resemble the lightness of any of the other Müllen bottles I've had. Difficult.
White - Off-dry
2002 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
88 points
Best wine of the flight, but it slightly underperformed. Light and harmonious, very good nose but in the mouth something lacks..?
White - Off-dry
1979 Vereinigte Hospitien Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese "Sanctus Jacobus" Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
87 points
Pipetobacco, camphor and blue cheese on the nose. Spectacular nose. In the mouth it has a nice grip and is not as tired as I expected. A nice bottle.

Flight 5 - Blind dry (4 notes)

White
1997 Trimbach Riesling Cuvée Frédéric Emile France, Alsace
83 points
(tasted blind)
This specific bottle had gone too far, very developed and metallic. Bone dry with some mineral notes, however it felt very tired.
White
2007 John Howard Cellars of Distinction Riesling Megalomaniac Narcissist Canada, Ontario, Niagara Peninsula, Niagara Peninsula VQA
87 points
(served blind)
Fresh and floral nose of white stone fruit and flowers. Light as a Mosel kabinett but without the schist. Excellent value! 87++
White
2002 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Clos Windsbuhl France, Alsace
90 points
(tasted blind, but as it was mine I easily guessed which one this was)

Late harvest with slight botrytis on the nose in addition to very tropical fruit. Complex secondary aromas as well. In the mouth very fresh but with noticable sweetness. This was indice 3 on the Zind-Humbrecht scale, which indicates 'off dry'.
I was a bit sceptical of what an off dry 13,5% alc Riesling would be like, but I found the alcohol was quite integrated with the overload of fruit, although a slightly warm finish gave it away. Otherwise very long and concentrated.
White
2001 Weingut Josef Jamek Riesling Smaragd Klaus Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
80 points
(tasted blind, although since this was my bottle I picked it out) By far the most developed and worst of my four bottles, this one was more or less gone with quite developed nose and very bitter astringent mouth-feel.

Flight 6 - Auslese (4 notes)

An incredible flight of excellent wines, however the Scharzhofberger was a bit anonymous compared to the other three. The Rausch and Juffer-Sonnenuhr were both excellent wines that it would be very fun to taste again in five years or even twenty, as they both have enormous potential

White - Off-dry
2007 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
93 points
I did not take much notes on this one. Rather closed on the nose but in the mouth exceptional. My least impressive of this one, but perhaps in a slightly muted phase at the moment? Nevertheless an extremely good wine with exceptional potential in 5-35 years.
Best wine of the flight 93+
White - Off-dry
2005 Zilliken (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
92 points
More open than the Juffer-Sonnenuhr but with a slight hint of petrol on the nose, also some floral notes, honey and lime. In the mouth it is good with a large body and exceptional intensity. Not as elegant as the Juffer-Sonnenuhr, much larger but still in perfect balance. High acidity, so it should easily last 20 years. 92++
White - Off-dry
1998 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
90 points
(from 375)
Due to suspicion of high sulfur levels, this was the only bottle that was decanted in advance; in this case for about 2,5 hours.
Obvious peach and apricot on the nose. Drinks very well at the moment, but compared to the Rausch and Juffer-Sonnenuhr this was a much simpler wine with less interesting notes
White - Off-dry
2004 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese Fuder 4 Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
89 points
(from demi)
(AP 46 05)
Slightly anonymous and simple, lacks some concentration although good length. Almost insignificant compared to the rest of the flight. Better on the first day than the next three

Flight 7 - Auslese 2 (4 notes)

Quite disappointing compared to the young auslese flight. This one contained one flawed bottle, two that were over the top and only one good bottle.

White - Off-dry
1990 Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese *** Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Seemed to be very tired and quite far past peak, disappointing
White - Off-dry
1976 Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Rosalack Auslese Germany, Rheingau
Pale bronze color, nose is of mature auslese riesling, however in the mouth it is quite dry with a strong metallic sensation, and as the fruit and sweetness has faded I get a very alcohol sensation. This bottle past its prime at least 10-15 years ago, quite disappointing as it should have been better even at this age. More interesting than good
White - Off-dry
1996 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese #10 Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
88 points
(AP 10 97) Again the typical elegance of the vineyard and producer. Not much developed considering the age and format (demi). Lacks some precision and concentration, medium length. However, by far the best bottle of the flight.

Flight 8 - Mature beerenauslese (4 notes)

White - Sweet/Dessert
1976 Weingut Ernst Clusserath Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Beerenauslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
90 points
I seemed to have lost my notes for this, but took some notes the following day. It continued to develop the next day with a light touch and a very elegant wine, still very fresh. 90++
A slight orange toffee in the finish that is a bit strange.
White - Sweet/Dessert
1976 Weingut Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Beerenauslese Germany, Rheingau
87 points
A huge disappointment considering the younger dry Gräfenberg we just had. Still some freshness and life left in the bottle, but it is rather insignificant and does not show it pedigree well. It is still a very good wine, and I would not have any problem quaffing down many bottles of this one - but not at the current price
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sweet/Dessert
1959 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Riesling Beerenauslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
97 points
I did not manage to make any notes of this wine as it just blew me away. I just sat there admiring the beautiful color and smelling it, while a huge grin developed :) The table went completely quiet for a few minutes.

It was as close to perfection as I have ever come in a wine. Maturity, still so much freshness after 52 years, and it had such a complex nose and taste. A sentimental wine
96-97 p
1 person found this helpful Comment
White - Sweet/Dessert
1976 Richter-Boltendahl Eltviller Sonnenberg Riesling Beerenauslese Germany, Rheingau
94 points
(served blind)
An amazing Beerenauslese, the freshest of the four in this flight. It had good intensity, concentration and was in flawless balance. Very long finish. Apart from the color and some of the mature notes in the nose nothing would give away this wine as being 35 years.
94-95p
1 person found this helpful Comment

Flight 9 - Young sweet (4 notes)

White - Sweet/Dessert
2006 Willi Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
91 points
(from 375; AP 2 07) Sweet botrytis nose, very pure. Excellent in the mouth with again the typical elegance of the vineyard. Good length. A very quiet wine that softly whispers while you enjoy it.
91++ now, will improve
White - Sweet/Dessert
1995 Hessische Staatsweingüter Kloster Eberbach Rüdesheimer Berg Schloßberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Germany, Rheingau
92 points
(from 500ml bottle)
Very rich TBA, but not too intense, nose dominated by botrytis. Drinks well now, smooth sweetness, not excessive acidity. Slightly short, but it has a certain elegance. An excellent wine.
91-92
White - Sweet/Dessert
2007 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Trockenbeerenauslese Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
92 points
(served blind from demi)
Incredible intensity, it is packed of luscious flavor. Not in perfect balance as it could have had more acidity, but nevertheless it is probably the wine of the flight. A real surprise as we where finely tuned on Riesling this evening, I did not suspect this to be a GV
White - Sweet/Dessert
1999 Künstler Hochheimer Hölle Riesling Beerenauslese Goldkapsel Germany, Rheingau
92 points
(from half bottle)
Slight caramel on the nose, apart from that it is an excellent BA with exceptional intensity and acidity. But also very elegant and light.
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