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Mixed Barolo and Barbaresco 1958-1990
River Café, Hammersmith, London
Tasted September 21, 2011 by Rupert with 922 views
Introduction
Another ambitious dinner organised by Ken Lamb for which we had to bring a barolo or barbaresco no younger than 1990. Some very grand wines were on show here, but frankly the biggest names didn't shine. Although they all had at least twenty years behind them, they were brutal and in many cases suffering from undue oxidation. The highlights were the 1990 Arborino and the 1978 Ratti Marcanesco. I was probably alone in being quite so enthusiastic about the 1985 Prodottori Asili Riserva.
Flight 1 (1 note)
Flight 2 - with a (huge) selection of antipasti (4 notes)
Red
1982 Gaja Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn
86 points
Pongy oxidised nose, better on the palate, gamey and hot, charmless
Red
1989 Gaja Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo
89 points
Dense, powerful, noticeably woody, tannic of course, but approachable
Red
1990 Elio Altare Barolo Vigneto Arborina
92 points
For all its tannin, this was smooth, fine, elegant, restrained, with some floral fragrance
Red
1989 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra
87 points
(From a magnum) Smooth and luxuriously textured, but the palate is hot and muddy
Flight 3 - with Agnoli di Vitello (5 notes)
Red
1978 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco
91 points
Bright and lively, with the acidity giving it a citric lift, some red fruits, very attractive
Red
1989 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia
90 points
Oaky, dense, masses of tannin, not really approachable, but quite fine
Red
1990 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia
87 points
Leafy, lean, brutally tannic - not much fun today
Red
1985 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili
91 points
Very pongy, but illuminated by high acidity - this was enticing and moreish, particularly after the younger brutes
Flight 4 - with Coscia d'Agnello ai ferri (4 notes)
Red
1982 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
Another one with a pongy oxidative note, massive, huge, but ugly - it surely can't be meant to be like this...
Red
1988 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
88 points
...but this too was oxidative, so perhaps this is the Monfortino style, massively tannic, not enjoyable
Red
1989 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia
Another tannic monster, but at least it was clean, loads there
Flight 5 - with Cheese (Piedmontese Caprino Fresco, Taleggio and another) (5 notes)
Red
Red
1967 Giacomo Conterno Barolo
89 points
Grainy after its journey, so swampy, but fine, with a pure floral note - attractive
Red
Flight 6 - with Lemon Tart (2 notes)
White - Sweet/Dessert
1996 Château d'Yquem
89 points
High-toned, polishing, lots of acidity - nice enough, but one expects something a bit more special from Yquem
White - Sweet/Dessert
2000 Domaine Weinbach Pinot Gris Quintessence de Grains Noble Cuvée D'Or
94 points
Wow. Mouthwatering, rhubarb fruited sweetie, with amazing concentration