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Burgundy vs. Piedmont: 1971, 1978, 1985
Boka - Chicago IL
Tasted September 20, 2010 by Burgundy Al with 654 views
Introduction
These were served blind across 4 flights with 4 courses, but not grouped by specific vintages, so I've just listed them all together. I know I left out a few near the end. Gary, our host, had been discussing this dinner for quite a while, arguing that Burgundy, Barolo and Barbaresco show so many similar characteristics as they age, so might be difficult to differentiate. In fact, it was relatively simple. I correctly identified 14 of the 15, and almost everybody identified at least 13 correctly.
Flight 1 (14 notes)
White
1985 Maison Leroy Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières
Tasted double blind. Nutty aromas and flavors with good spice, lots of depth and remaining fruit concentration. Clearly identifiable blind as Burgundy, this has a good deal of life ahead of it.
Red
1971 Joseph Drouhin Clos de la Roche
Served blind. Mostly secondary character but with some remaining short fruit. Way, way past its prime.
Red
1985 Mommessin Clos de Tart
94 points
Served blind. Exceptional nose with great spice and good combination of red fruit and secondary elements. Bit more of the mushroom coming through through on the palate, with a complex layer finish unfolding with spice, fruit and sours bois. Much better than the bottle of 1985 we opened at last year's Clos de Tart vs. Lambrays dinner, but not quite as good as an amazing bottle from the 1989 vintage.
Red
1971 Gaja Barbaresco
Served blind. Floral elements made this easy to identify as from Piedmont. Dominated today by tannic structure, with fruit, spice and earthy elements less in the forefront. Not a great showing.
Red
1985 Gaja Barbaresco
93 points
Served blind. Great floral elements on nose, followed by pretty fruit both on nose and palate. Great acid, structure and power provide lots of texture and then great concentration on finish.
Red
1985 Elio Altare Barolo
Served blind. Licorice and briar patch on the nose. Dense fruit with good spice on the palate. Very powerful, long life going forward.
Red
1978 Dupont-Tisserandot Charmes-Chambertin
Served blind. Muddy and unattractive. A decade+ past the back-end of its drinking window.
Red
1978 Domaine Jacques Prieur Clos Vougeot
91 points
Served blind. Big fruit coming through on nose and palate. Really showed much younger than I'd expect from a 1978. Impressive spice coming through on finish.
Red
1978 Vietti Barbaresco Masseria
Served blind. Some nice floral elements to start but the palate was not particularly clean tasting or interesting tonight.
Red
1971 Maison Leroy Echezeaux
90 points
Served blind. Rose petal on the nose with delicate red fruit. Same red fruit on palate but mostly behind some pale earthy flavors. Moderate length and finish with some interesting spice.
Red
1985 Maison Leroy Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru La Richemone
91 points
Served blind. Good combination of primary and secondary aromas with charming Vosne-type spice. Dense and powerful ripe black cherry and blackberry come through on the palate, very youthful with lots of life going forward. Less secondary flavors than aromas. Somewhat rustic styled tannins on finish.
Red
1978 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Villero
Served blind. Really pretty floral aromas to start. Fruit starts on seemingly light but increases weight and density from start to finish, and also with more time in the glass. Elegant and charming spice throughout, great licorice and cloves. Great fruit density by the end of its long finish.
Red
1971 Cantina Mascarello Barolo
95 points
Served blind. Nose of rose petals, leathe and really charming red fruit. Great structure that was just perfectly integrated with everything in harmony. started with more subtle fruit, also really picking up density and power towards the middle and finish.
Red
1978 Remoissenet Père et Fils Richebourg
89 points
Served blind. Sweet fruit, sweet baking spice. Nice balance, fun flavors, but not particularly elegant.
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