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An Aldo Conterno Evening
The Ledbury, London
Tasted November 16, 2011 by Rupert with 737 views
Introduction
Franco Conterno was on hand to introduce a superbly selected range of his wines. The whites glossy and modern, but impressive. The 2006s were all bright and very attractive, but overshadowed by the spectacular 2004s. The pair of 1999s seemed dull to me, but the 1996 was excellent, and the 1978 was a glorious climax. The Ledbury food was particularly good tonight, and superbly matched with the wines.
Flight 1 - with Canapes (mackerel with shiso, some smoked eel, an oyster, a piece of brill, a foie gras mousse, and a porky thing) (1 note)
White - Sparkling
N.V. Pol Roger Champagne Brut Réserve
89 points
Absolutely brilliant tonight, bright, tangy, really moreish
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Flight 2 - with Rosemary and Buffalo Milk Curd with a broth of Griled Onions flavoured with Juniper, Partridge Lardo di Colonnata and Truffles on Toast (2 notes)
White
2008 Poderi Aldo Conterno Langhe Bussiador
89 points
Pale, a wrapping of sweet oak, luxuriously textured, sharp, mineral - I liked this a lot
White
2006 Poderi Aldo Conterno Langhe Bussiador
90 points
Bigger than the 08, dramatic oak, on the palate penetrating with a balsamic tone - striking wine
Flight 3 - with Boudin of Grouse with a Sauce of Dried Cep (and Chestnut for the others, but black truffle for me) (4 notes)
Red
2006 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo
90 points
The nose fruity by barolo standards, strong spicy oak, bright on the palate, tannic, rather fine
Red
2006 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala
91 points
Fragrant, with rosemary, smoke and mint, bigger and more intense than the classic, lots of tannin, but enough bright fruit for this to be approachable
Red
2006 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello
91 points
Similar to the Cicala, a bit tighter, possibly a bit finer, and I could see why Franco Conterno described it as more feminine than the Cicala
Red
2006 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Romirasco
92 points
A touch finer than the others, though like them this showed right bright fruit with lots of tannin. Impressive
Flight 4 - Faggot of Berkshire Hare with Tea Soaked Prunes and a Puree of Parsely Root lightly flavoured with Chocolate (2 notes)
Red
2004 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello
92 points
Big, fragrant, lots of spicy oak, fresh, lovely
Red
2004 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Romirasco
93 points
Hotter and more substantial than the Colonello, even more tannic, but even better - a brilliant young barolo
Flight 5 - with "Risotto" of Celeriac with Grated Duck Egg, Smoked Bone Marrow and Parmesan, Shaved White Truffle (2 notes)
Red
1999 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala
87 points
High, some oxidation, some vanilla, coffee, but really not very inspiring
Red
1999 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia
86 points
and this was even duller than the Cicala - flat, nothing of distinction - on its own I might have concluded this was faulty, but given that that the Cicala was dull too, more likely it is in a charmless phase
Flight 6 - with Loin of Sika Deer with Baked Muscade Pumpkin, Dried Chicory Reduction (and Walnuts for the others) (2 notes)
Red
1996 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia
92 points
Butch, malty, rich, lots of substance, grippy and impressive
Red
1978 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia
94 points
Pure, gentle rose fragrance, fantastically fresh - luminous too, like a Rousseau - lovely