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Académie des Cinquante Piemonte tasting
Restaurant De Burgemeester *, Linschoten, Netherlands
Tasted March 23, 2013 by Xavier Auerbach with 551 views
Flight 1 - Barbera (4 notes)
Red
2010 Elvio Cogno Barbera d'Alba Pre-Phylloxera
92 points
Very young and closed, slightly lactic, silky, cool and energetic, acidity is perfectly integrated but will need a few years to soften, amazing purity, bright red cherry fruit, impressive length.
Red
2008 Elio Grasso Barbera d'Alba Vigna Martina
89 points
Not an easy year in Piemonte. A much lighter style than the Cogno P-P, elegant and well-balanced, hint of liquorice, bright red fruit, charming, good length.
Red
2007 Coppo Barbera d'Asti Pomorosso
92 points
Magnum. Impressive depth and concentration, velvety, excellent typicity, rich and savoury, wonderfully ripe velvety tannins, sweet black cherry fruit, has absorbed the 14 months on new oak beuatifully, modern and sensual, excellent length.
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Red
1999 Braida (Giacomo Bologna) Barbera d'Asti Bricco della Bigotta
90 points
Fully mature appearance; on the nose very tertiary, earthy, with notes of lovage and a whiff of gunpowder, good depth and freshness, vestiges of fruit; on the palate well-balanced, gentle but with lovely Barbera-acidity, good weight; very good length.
Flight 2 - Northern Piedmont (4 notes)
Red
2008 Proprietà Sperino Uvaggio
89 points
Nebbiolo (60%), Vespolina (25%) and Croatina (15%). Floral, elegant, charming, fragrant, the Vespolina and Croatina add a nice complexity and fruit, refreshing acidity, good length. Approachable, attractive.
Red
2006 Proprietà Sperino Lessona
90 points
Classic Nebbiolo profile, lifted nose, tannins have been managed very well, slightly vegetal but with a lovely ripeness in the fruit, elegant and expressive, good to very good length.
Red
2004 Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Ghemme Collis Breclemae
88 points
Quite vegetal, mature, slender, relatively tannic, lacks a certain charm and fragrance, good length, slightly peppery finish.
Red
2004 Travaglini Gattinara Riserva
91 points
More concentrated than the previous three, hint of cold tea, good weight, nice tertiary development, showing very well.
Flight 3 - 2000 Barolo (4 notes)
Red
2000 Franco Conterno Barolo Riserva Bussia Munie
90 points
Magnum. Light, quite evolved, very tertiary, hint of coffee, good tannic structure and length, on the dry side, an old-fashioned style, for traditionalists.
Red
2000 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra
93 points
80% new barrique. Wonderful nose, deep and fragrant, perfectly integrated barrique adds warmth and richness, modern style, excellent length, fully mature, a wonderful balancing act between modernity and tradition.
Red
2000 Mauro Veglio Barolo Castelletto
91 points
Very ripe fruit, almost a bit jammy (insofar as Nebbiolo is capable of that), touches of beefstock and aniseed, clearly marked by its warm vintage but the balance is good even though the tannins scream out for steak.
Red
2000 Paolo Scavino Barolo Carobric
91 points
Tertiary, perfumed, relatively light and traditional style but with considerable charm and length, tannic of course, excellent length.
Flight 4 - Mature Nebbiolo (4 notes)
Red
1999 Malvira' Roero Superiore Trinità
91 points
Very lively and fresh for age, very impressively structured, excellent acidity and tannins, roses, energetic, roses, tar in the background, transparent, smoky.
Red
1997 Franco Conterno Barolo Riserva Bussia Munie
92 points
Vino da meditazione, subtle, lovely warmth, 1997-gentilezza, cherries, ripe tannins, develops a hint of stables, silky, wonderful finish with excellent length.
Red
1996 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis
95 points
Chef d'oeuvre! A thing of beauty, subtle, layered, balanced, smoky, lots of tannins but perfectly balanced, full of potential, the most Burgundian of all the Nebbiolos on tasting today.
Flight 5 - Lunch (3 notes)
White
2011 Elvio Cogno Langhe Nascetta Anas-Cetta
87 points
The Nascetta grape is related to the Vermentino; aged for 6 months on oak on the fine lees. Very floral, not unlike a Muscat from Alsace, slightly metallic, with some back-end heat.
Red
2005 Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Colline Novaresi Anno Primo
91 points
Aged for 24 months in large oak vats. Fragrant, truffle, undergrowth, good fruit, nice balance of intensity and elegance, ripe tannins.
Red
2004 Franco Conterno Barolo Riserva Bussia Munie
92 points
Double magnum. Aged for 48 months in large oak vats. Wonderful, classical Barolo, spices, wood, roses, nice weight of fruit and a lovely balance, elegant and intense, elegant and charming, drinking beautifully, at peak but no hurry.
Flight 6 - Afterthoughts (2 notes)
Red
2005 Travaglini Il Sogno
92 points
Nebbiolo Amarone-style. Wonderful additional balsamic richness from the appassimento but without losing the characteristic tannic austerity of the Nebbiolo grape, good weight and velvety extraction, very good length.
Red
2004 Franco Conterno Barolo Riserva 7 Anni
94 points
Bottled 12 January 2012 after seven years on large oak vats. Elegant, amazing finesse in the wood, ripe fruit, stylish, silky, intense, refined, wonderfully together and harmonious, drinking beautifully. A stunning wine.