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Terry Theise Austrian/German tasting

Milwaukee Athletic Club

Tasted June 19, 2013 by nzinkgraf with 824 views

Flight 1 (4 notes)

White
2011 Weingut Familie Prieler Pinot Blanc Leithaberg Austria, Burgenland, Neusiedlersee-Hügelland, Leithaberg
Pretty spectacular PB. DAC, salty, oaky mineral.
White
2012 Nigl Grüner Veltliner Rehberger Zwetl Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal
They made two vintages after purchase in '98 and '99, but then replanted and now this is the first vintage off of 5 yr old vines.
Very expressive and ripe. Ripest of the set for sure. An outlier as such. More mineral and spice too.
White
2012 Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Faß 4 Austria, Niederösterreich, Wagram
The say richer, but this seems more precise in style to me. Fleshier pear for sure. Richer relative to other Wagram, I guess. All the same, spot on.
White
2012 Weingut Hirsch Grüner Veltliner Zöbinger Heiligenstein Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
a glassier aromas and a glossier texture than the Nigl or the Ott.

Flight 2 (7 notes)

White - Sparkling
N.V. Schloss Gobelsburg Brut Réserve Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
big rich and rip palate of tree fruit. still maintaining acid for pleasurable balance.
White
2012 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Reserve Steinsetz Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
lots of juicy and fleshy pear. white pepper finish. ah, yeah.
White
2012 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner 1ÖTW Reserve Renner Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
more banana and tropical in appeal. a touch honied with spice.
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White
2011 Schloss Gobelsburg Grüner Veltliner Reserve Tradition Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
vs. the '12 Renner and Steinsetz, the Tradition is more of a glassier texture with more mineral. rather understated.
White
2012 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Reserve Gaisberg Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
Indian spice on a very attractive fruit. fenugreek. this is the wine of this Gobelsburg set that just took me for a ride.
White
2012 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Reserve Heiligenstein Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
brighter and more floral than the Gaisberg, but not as spicy.
White
2011 Schloss Gobelsburg Riesling Tradition Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
candied pear, a richer profile. spice, with a touch of botrytis? I can't confirm that...

Flight 3 (4 notes)

White
2012 Nigl Riesling Dornleiten Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal
Very floral expression with ripe peach fruit. The couple '12 Nigl today are pretty RIPE. Hot floosies for the vintage?
White
2012 Hiedler Riesling Urgestein Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
A rounder feel on the palate with more citrus and orange zest.
White
2012 Weingut Hirsch Riesling Zöbing Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
Full, but not as ripe as the Nigl Dornleiten. More precise and mineral.
White
2012 Nikolaihof Riesling Federspiel Vom Stein Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
Pronounced white flower and pear profile on a bigger palate than the '12 Hiedler Urgestein. This has it all, and one of my favorites today.

Flight 4 (4 notes)

White
2012 von Winning Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling Germany, Pfalz
impressive. i don't have much here, but to say the first wine already felt like my favorite was a really good feeling.
White
2012 von Winning Reiterpfad Riesling Germany, Pfalz
much more muscular than the 2012 Paradiesgarten Trocken.
White
2012 von Winning Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Pfalz
much more petrol aromas. finishes with lots of peach and apricot.
White
2012 von Winning Forster Pechstein Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Pfalz
more fruity aromas, with much more mineral. with a candied texture.

Flight 5 (4 notes)

White
2012 Dönnhoff Riesling Tonschiefer trocken Germany, Nahe
clay/slate soils. clean, precise mineral and lots of pear on the finish.
White
2012 Dönnhoff Felsenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Nahe
volcanic soils with a much more perfumed expression. buy.
White - Off-dry
2012 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese Germany, Nahe
65 year old vines on slate soils and this has the best acid of the trio of 2012 Donnhoff Spatlese.

vs. Oberhauser Brucke - monopole with complex soil composition
and Norheimer Krischherck - slate.
White
2012 Weingut Josef Leitz Rüdesheimer Berg Schloßberg Riesling Großes Gewächs Germany, Rheingau
far and away my favorite wine at the Johannes Leitz table today. carries a really wild cinnamon spice on the palate.

Flight 6 (4 notes)

White
2012 Müller-Catoir Mußbach Riesling Kabinett Germany, Pfalz
very crystalline and mineral on the palate. seems to be a house style emerging here. showing very well.
White
2012 Hexamer Meddersheimer Altenberg Riesling Kabinett Germany, Nahe
fuller than the muller catoir '12 mussbach kabinett. phenolic and framed by quite the je ne sais quoi.
White
2012 A.J. Adam Hofberg Riesling Kabinett Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
riper and fuller fruit from the start. lush tree fruit core on the palate. Another great showing.
White
2012 Weingut von Othegraven Wiltinger Kupp Riesling Kabinett Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
comes off a bit one dimensional with grape-y fruit. dried grape fruit snack.

Flight 7 (7 notes)

White
2012 Weingut Willi Bründlmayer Riesling 1ÖTW Reserve Ried Heiligenstein Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
Pure and elegant. White flowers and fabric blowing in the wind. Candied lime on the palate. Thoughtful and fresh with a very clean. Lots. Of shimmering mineral on the palate. A chalking texture.
White
2009 Nikolaihof Riesling Reserve Steiner Hund Austria, Niederösterreich, Wachau
Much broader spectrum of white flower than the '12 Brundlmayer Heiligenstein. Chalky mineral aromas. A darker cracked grain note, thats part of a bigger white pepper expression. White jelly bean. Pear. A maturity that seems beyond 2009, but then again, that often times seems the way with Nikolaihof.
Day 4 and still holding on VERY strongly. a distinguished white fruit profile across the palate. a bright, yet candied note on the palate, but not due to acid. just more of a shimmering fruit. white flower and meadow still all over this wine. Absolutely fantastic.

Not Smaragd, because this is a Kremstal site. Rock Dog. All huge oak. more mature tree fruit. easy spice.

An old Celtic site, then the church came through in the 600s. Wine every year since 400AD. Biodynamic since the 1971.
White
2012 Bernhard Ott Grüner Veltliner Der Ott Austria, Niederösterreich, Wagram
Speigel, Stein, and Rosenberg. A clean and pure Gruner.

From Wagram, which used to be a beach. here, loess, wind-blown silt, after the ice age, but before vegetation.

Gruner likes rich soils aka clay, loam, loess. Riesling likes lean soils, pure rock.
White
2011 Weingut Hirsch Grüner Veltliner Reserve Lamm Austria, Niederösterreich, Kamptal
Mineral and ashy aromas. (Peanut butter?). Complex green herb and veg. Big and fat on the palate, with properly placed, and rather bracing acid. Melon and some prickly fruit. Lots of melon on the finish. Cotton candy palate.
Day 4 and rather pulled back in aroma and on the palate. not as fat on the palate as this seemed on the first day. just a bit less bombastic, and that's not a bad thing. drinking great.

Lamm is at the base of Heiligenstein. Loam. Opulent, rich, ashy.
Red
2011 Weingut Glatzer St. Laurent Altenberg Austria, Niederösterreich, Carnuntum
i want to like this wine, but it's really more band-aid aromas than most could enjoy.
Red
2011 Wallner Blaufränkisch Eisenberg Austria, Burgenland, Südburgenland, Eisenberg
Licorice and herb, mineral, dark red fruits and rather Cab Franc-ish.

Sudburgenland has high iron content and is therefore great for mineral driven reds. Eisenberg - iron mountain.
Red
2011 Sattler Zweigelt Reserve Austria, Burgenland, Mittelburgenland
barrique aging. lots of gingerbread aromas. gets quite barrel-driven on the palate.
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