Day Three in Burgundy: Rousseau, Marchand, Dugat, Jadot
Cote d'Or
Tasted July 3, 2013 by Burgundy Al with 1,574 views
Flight 1 - Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils (7 notes)
My first visit to Rousseau after years of trying, and this visit was uncertain until the last minute. Sensational 2012s. Mazis-Chambertin and Ruchottes-Chambertin were both too early in ML to try. Although 2012 yields are down everywhere, Rousseau is now producing more Lavaux St. Jacques, Charmes-Chambertin and Gevrey (Villages) based on the agreement with Chateau de Gevrey-Chambertin. All of these are going into the corresponding Rousseau cuvees. We also tasted Clos de la Roche, but from a new barrel, which will only represent 10% of the assemblage so don't think my note will be representative.
Red
2012 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Barrel tasting at domaine. Red and black cherry aromas with subtle spice hints. Slightly more/mostly black on palate. Fresh and charming today.
First note: this TN might not accurately reflect final assemblage because of varied use of new oak cross barrels. Second note: this wine include the Chateau de-Gevrey-Chambertin wine in the blend for the first time in 2012.
Red
2012 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. All black cherry with subtle spice hints, all very fresh. some sauvage hints, all very nicely textured and good density. This cuvee includes the LSJ from Chateau de Gevrey-Chambertin so doesn't represent the exact same plot as from prior vintages. Also this note might not represent the final assemblage because of the varied new oak use across barrels.
Red
2012 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Charmes-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. 60% Mazoyeres, 40% Charmes proper. Also clearly needing to be racked. Red and black fruit with braised meat spice. More textured and nuanced vs powerful for Grand Cru from Gevrey. Lots of charm today.
First note: this note might not accurately represent the final assemblage because of varied new oak usage across barrels. Second note: this cuvee now includes the Charmes-Chambertin from Chateau de Gevrey-Chambertin in the cuvee starting this vintage.
Red
2012 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Ripe black cherry with robust meaty spice aromas. Firm all black fruit flavors, rather assertive overall, with great balance and surprising evenness already today. final assemblage will be 70% from new oak, so this note might not represent that blend completely accurately. 93-95 point potential.
Red
2012 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Huge blackberry, plum, black cherry aromas showcasing incredibly fresh, powerful fruit and background meaty spice. Identical on palate. Long, dense, chewy and expanding. 95-96 point potential for me this morning.
Red
2012 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Similar in overall profile to the Beze just tasted, slightly more black, certainly more brooding and backward. Very long and intense finish with both intense fruit and dense spice, powerful with a long, expanding finish.
Flight 2 - Pascal Marchand (aka Marchand & Tawse, aka Marchand and Burch) (17 notes)
Marchand brand names and labels show the complexity of Burgundy's business model today. Some of these might be Marchand-Tawse or Marchand-Burch or just Pascal Marchand based on where they are sold.
Red
2012 Marchand & Tawse / Pascal Marchand Nuits St. Georges
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges
Barrel tasting at domaine. Red and black cherry with background cinammon and clove. Fat and forward, this should drink nicely young. More Vosne styled than classically NSG, but this comes from 3 plots, 2 near Vosne, the third in Primeaux. Good.
Red
2012 Marchand & Tawse / Pascal Marchand Gevrey-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Barrel tasting at domaine. Dense black fruit aromas with black cherry, blackberry and some smoked meat. Forward, pure and charming for its level. From a neutral barrel, the final assemblage will include ~25% from new oak. Very good.
Red
2012 Marchand & Tawse / Pascal Marchand Clos St. Denis
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Charming floral and spice driven start with red and black fruit aromas and flavors. Well textured and elegant, it is always interesting to taste a CSD side-by-side with the same producer's CdlR from the same vintage, and Marchand's CSD came across showing more spice and flowers, less density and power.
Red
2012 Marchand & Tawse / Pascal Marchand Clos de la Roche
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Cross-section of red and black cherry, very fresh and powerful with good spice and floral hints. Bigger, longer finish.
It is always interesting to taste a CdlR side-by-side with the same producer's CSD from the same vintage, and Marchand's CdlR came across showing less about spice and flowers, with greater density and power.
Red
2012 Marchand & Tawse / Pascal Marchand Musigny
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Incredibly impressive wine. starts with delicate red fruit charm, nicely spiced. Quickly picks up power and weight middle to finish, even picking up some complexity already from great structural elements. Finishes firm but very well balanced. Excellent.
Red
2010 Marchand & Tawse / Pascal Marchand Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Tasting at domaine. From screwcap. Really. Mostly red cherry aromas with Indian spice, licorice. Red and black fruit flavors also with licorice and good density and weight. Well textured, nuanced, even if just a little less powerful or complex than I hope for Chambertin in this great vintage.
Flight 3 - Claude Dugat (8 notes)
Visit and tasting with M. Dugat. Amazing 2012s. I expect these TNs to be representative of the final assemblage of the various cuvees since all 1ers and Grand Crus are in 100% new oak. We also tasted Marc and Fine from 2012 and Marc from 2002, for which I did not write notes.
Red
2012 Claude Dugat Bourgogne
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
Barrel tasting at domaine. ML 90% complete. Sweet black cherry dominates, with very good balance. Always a great value wine, 2012 should be no different.
Red
2012 Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Barrel tasting at domaine. All black fruit, showing cherry, boysenberry and plum. Bigger, dense, fresher than Bourgogne, also much longer and more firm. From 15 parcels.
Red
2012 Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. 100% new oak. Always a personal favorite, I think the two parcels must be very complementary. Fat black fruit aromas with meaty spice, some fruit, some oak. Spice and mineral start with black cherry and blackberry flavors. Long and powerful with great balance already. Huge fruit from the start. Very good, in fact probably as good as the LSJ for me today.
Red
2012 Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Dense black fruit aromas with an element of smoked meat. Dense, sweet black fruit, almost giving a cherry pie character, yet all in savory. harmony. Firm and masculine finish. Tough to say if this showed better than the wonderful Gevrey 1er for me, but this is more likely better for the long haul.
Red
2012 Claude Dugat Charmes-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Perfumed, spice driven start with great black cherry and boysenberry aromas. Very elegant and harmonious flavors, subtle for a Gevrey grand Cru, but clearly lots of great, soft tannins evident in background. Excellent.
Red
2012 Claude Dugat Griotte-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Wonderful spice start with slightly leaner black fruit than Charmes, this is classically Griotte to me, relying on great textures and a velvety mouth feel vs power. Incredibly elegant already, this is my favorite of the Dugat 2012 lineup.
Red
2012 Claude Dugat Chapelle-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Plum and blackberry aromas, very lush, almost jammy, with good background spice. Identical fruit on palate, slightly more spice. Also slightly backward today, with firm structure in the forefront, with lots of tannins, albeit well textured. As always, the Claude Dugat cuvee in need of the most cellar time.
Red
2011 Claude Dugat Gevrey-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin
Tasting at domaine. Black fruit start with braised meat spice on nose and palate. Very good balance while also showing classic Gevrey firmness.
Flight 4 - Louis Jadot (41 notes)
Barrel tasting of 2012s. These were taken from barrel earlier and put into 375 ml bottles so it was impossible to tell/ask for each cuvee about the age of the oak barrels for what we were tasting vs the eventual assemblage. Tasting was with Sigfried Pic and Jadot's new technical director Frédéric Barnier.
White
2012 Louis Jadot Meursault 1er Cru Charmes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Fat and ripe apple and pear aromas and faint nutty hints. Same on palate with good density and energy. Large finish. Firm, needs time. Very good.
White
2012 Louis Jadot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. A sensational step up from the very good Charmes. Flashy and fleshy start, again lots of apple and pear, with toasted walnut. Great power and concentration, but also very good balance and textures.
White
2012 Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Spice driven start with lots of ripe apple aromas. Apple and pear flavors with rich, fat flavors and textures, then good energy and lemon character at end. Very good concentration. Long, well textured. Impressive.
White
2012 Louis Jadot Bâtard-Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Ripe and fat stone and orchard fruit aromas, lush and spicy. Dense and powerful start-to-finish, then just a bit reticent on finish.
White
2012 Louis Jadot Montrachet
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Montrachet Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Just racked, so slightly leesy. Green apple, lemon and lime aromas and again on palate, with subdued understatement. Bursts of energy start-to-finish, providing an exciting, racy mouth feel. Also excellent.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Avaux
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Dense black fruit aromas. All black fruit flavors, also dense, chewy, slightly backward with firm tannins throughout with some earthy elements as well.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Beaune 1er Cru Grèves
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Stylistically similar to the Beaune Avaux tasted earlier - dense, black and firm. But slightly more accessible and enjoyable, with more clear path to where this will emerge as a finished wine. Good.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Volnay 1er Cru en l'Ormeau
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. I don't recall ever seeing this before in the Jadot portfolio, so probably new or previously added to a Volnay blend. Mostly black fruit with modest spice. more firm than I might have expected from young Volnay, still nice.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Volnay 1er Cru Santenots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Mostly black cherry aromas with floral hints along with cinnamon and allspice. Large scaled on palate with red and black fruit. Very firm for now.Good length, good in general.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Pommard 1er Cru Les Chaponnières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Black fruit aromas with meaty spice aromas. Not quite in balance yet, the palate starts with the same high quality fruit, but is then overtaken by assertive tannins from middle to finish. Good quality, this will need cellar time.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Pommard 1er Cru Les Rugiens
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Black and red cherry aromas with braised meat character. Good balance and textures supporting same fruit profile nicely. Very good, worth seeking out.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Corton
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Very approachable black fruit aromas with some sweet spice. Charming and engaging on palate, great balance already. Good to drink young for Grand Cru.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Perrières
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Another wine I don't recall seeing before in the Jadot lineup. Starts aromatically reticent. Palate also has a simple start, expands with more black cherry flavors and firming tannins, spice also emerging on end. Lots of NSG styled power.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Chaumes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Another wine I can't recall previously in the JAdot portfolio, very impressive. Lots of red and black cherry on both nose and palate with a classic baking spice element. Very good length with good structural support throughout. Probably a very good buy and worth seeking out.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Noirots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Another first time wine for me. This was a negociant purchase for which Jadot just took over for the elevage. Very elegant. Red cherry with some raspberry on nose and palate, charming and subtle spice. Very intriguing with sneaky minerality and acidity. Worth seeking out.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Sentiers
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Barrel tasting. another wine I can't recall ever having from Jadot, but I was assured this has been in the portfolio for a while. Slightly meatier than the other two cuvees from Chambolle, with more power, less finesse, less texturally nuanced.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Baudes Domaine Gagey
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Barrel tasting. Really sensational, I often find Baudes to have "baby Bonnes Mares" qualities when done well, and this definitely comes through here. All red fruit with very impressive concentration and great textures. Excellent and definitely worth seeking.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. I typically find Jadot CV to be amongst the most accessible from this large Grand Cru vineyard, but today the 2012 is dense and brooding, close to backward, making it very tough to assess. Almost all black fruit throughout with subtle woodsy spice, and certainly very serious.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Grands-Echezeaux
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Grands-Echezeaux Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. All red fruit with lots of great savory spice. Classically Vosne in fruit, spice and elegance with a charming weightlessness. Very impressive, 93-95 point potential.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Echezeaux
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Ripe and powerful black and red cherry aromas and flavors. More firm and concentrated vs the Grands Echezeaux, if not as elegant and textured.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Clos de la Roche
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Spice driven start with huge and enticing red fruit. Similar flavor profile, perhaps slightly less complex or exciting, with moderate length and finesse for now. I think this is one of the rare instances in which a Jadot negociant Grand Cru is purchased as wine (vs grapes on the vine).
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Mazis-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Very dense, black and somewhat backward, with Mazis animale character hints, but mostly tough to assess.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Chapelle-Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. This is almost always a favorite cuvee at Jadot, and 2012 does not disappoint. Black, dense and very meaty with warming spice. A real sense of old vine concentration through long finish, that today is a bit firm and austere. Long-term this will be excellent, perhaps 2025 forward.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Chambertin
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Black fruit to start, followed by a combination or black and some red cherry flavors. Moderate intensity and nuance. Consistent with Jadot Chambertin in prior vintages.
Red
2012 Louis Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Domaine Louis Jadot
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru
Barrel tasting at domaine. Black fruit start-to-finish, very dense and almost crunchy in terms of textures. Huge and powerful with great background spice and smoked meat character. Very cellarworthy.
Red
2007 Louis Jadot Clos St. Denis
France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru
Tasting at domaine. A complicated wine because Jadot usually produces two DIFFERENT bottlings of Clos St. Denis - one is domaine (labeled as "Louis Jadot, Domaine Gagey") while the other is negociant and labeled as "Louis Jadot." My limited experience with the two has indicated a discernable qualitative difference with the domaine cuvee being superior.
This is the negociant bottle. Slightly reductive, sulfured start, which was hard to get past. Lots of good fruit, seemingly forward, but also seeming a little straightforward.
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