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Burgundy Tasting
Ivy, George Street, Sydney
Tasted March 25, 2015 by chatters with 644 views
Introduction
Ahh, I must confess I thought last years Burgundy week (and huge Burgundy tasting) would be a one off but no, the genius that is Franck Moreau (MS) has managed again to put on what is possibly the best tasting in Sydney and definitely the best Burgundy tasting. Another stellar cast of superb producers showing some great wines at all price points.
As usual I was in the quandary of what to taste in a finite time...last years tasting had been very much elbows at dawn so I was determined to taste everything that was suitably raved about. Consequently I divvied up the list before hand into four brackets of whites and reds based on critics scores and went between the two - not ideal but I had plenty of water, spat everything and some bread between brackets to help keep my palate fresh which seemed to work.
Flight 1 - Bracket 1 - Grand crus and top scorers (avg 90+) (12 notes)
Christian Moreau was the wine of the bracket. Just frighteningly good. I'm sworn off buying wine at the mo' but…oooh…it really was rather splendid…if I starve myself for a week or so I might be able to pick up a bottle or two…
White
2012 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos
Lemon over peach and some spice, slight cedar...rich and opulent, juicy with medium plus intensity flavours of lemon and stone fruit, slight oak, very long, difficult to spit. Superb, pristine, beautifully balanced, this rushed note does not do the wine justice.
White
2007 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte Bouguerots
slight honeyed note over lemon, spice and quite meaty elements…a little tart apple in the mouth with some cream. Surprisingly short though balanced. Hmm.
White
2008 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Charlemagne Domaine
toasted oak, cream, vanilla and slight caramel over peach and lemon and muted spice…spice to the fore on the palate over slight peach and citrus, cream and vanilla. Rich some mid palate furring. Long finish. Very nice
White
2008 Blain-Gagnard Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet
Funky, slightly cheesy and leesy over quite rich, but oddly muted, stone fruit and spice...In the mouth the wine is rich and textured, quite chewy almost, with peach fruit and plentiful spice and oak. All about structure. Good.
White
2012 Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
Medium plus intensity aromas of lemon and grapefruit over spice, slight cream, lovely nose - the aromas are integrated and harmonious…Juicy, citric then muted spice, slight furring, medium plus length. Good.
White
2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume
funky, cheesy, leesy, over muted fruit…spice over muted apple fruit that is tart, quite drying mid palate but all travels long. Feels like it needs time.
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White
2011 Domaine de la Vougeraie Vougeot 1er Cru Clos Blanc de Vougeot
Medium minus intensity aromas of vanilla, muted peach over slight citrus….juicy fruit more o the fore, quite rich with peach and apple, some waxy burring but the fruit persists on the long finish and is accompanied by some non-intrusive alcohol warmth. Nice
White
2012 Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet
Quite blossom notes over muted citrus and stone fruit, sweet spice….juicy and spicy then fruit joins with firm mid palate grip. Perhaps a little short. More fruit on the palate but the lack of length is a bit distressing.
White
2011 Domaine / Maison Vincent Girardin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières
Slight lees over sweet spice and muted stone fruit…the fruit is more apple than stone fruit on the palate and a bit tart with mid palate talc textured grip. Meh
White
2008 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes
spice over plasticine (which is apparently a material called Irganox L130), stone fruits, cheesy elements and cedar…more of the same on the palate, spice dominates, long finish but not for me.
White
2008 Blain-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte
Cream, vanilla, butter (first obvious butter aroma for today), slight honey over muted peach…in the mouth butter, slight spice and slight peach fruit that sours a little and is joined by some talc textured mid palate grip on the long finish. Hmm
White
2012 Gilbert Picq & ses Fils Chablis 1er Cru Vosgros
Cheesy lees over lemon citrus, spice and cream…tart, almost sour, lemon. Broadness on the mid palate, medium length with spice introduced. Hmm
Flight 2 - Bracket 2 - second tier excellent wines (avg 85-90) (7 notes)
I did enjoy that Chateau du Puligny Montrachet and the Patrick Piuze was v. pleasant.
White
2013 Patrick Piuze Chablis Terroir de Fyé
Medium plus aromas of lemon sherbet with slight cream and butter…more of the same on the palate…short but very refreshing. Good
White
2011 Jean-Claude Bessin Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume
Lemon and spice, slight plasticine, cream and cedar…juicy, lemon, but drops short with slight mid palate fur and bitterness. Meh
White
2011 Garnier et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu
slight dustiness with lemon and stalky notes, chalk…cream, lemon, then spice, juicy carries but a bit out of whack.
White
2012 Domaine Charles Audoin Marsannay Blanc
Medium minus intensity aromas that are stalky and funky, citrus and something very earthy….Juicy, round and a little tart carries medium plus finish and some mid palate chalkiness. Good but not for me.
White
2008 Ballot-Millot & Fils Meursault Les Criots
Meaty and leesy, spice and stone fruit…more of the same on the palate with drying mid palate grip and finishes quite bitter. Meh
White
2009 Château de Puligny-Montrachet Puligny-Montrachet
Cream, marzipan, stone fruit, quite rich nose with some butter as well…juicy, stone fruit, spice, butter, slight honeyed notes, cream, non-intrusive alcohol warmth on the finish. Lovely, just lovely. It a great spot at the moment. Wow.
White
2013 Domaine Daniel Dampt et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet
From half bottle: lemon, cream and butter…lemon, spice, butter, long finish. Okay
Flight 3 - Bracket 3 - good wines average score 80-85 (5 notes)
The Olivier Leflaive was the wine of this little bracket for me. Hmm. Where's my moth ridden wallet…
White
2012 Caves Duplessis Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
Peach over slight lees, warm spice, slight cream and butter…Peach, cream, spice, slight butter, non-inclusive alcohol…nice but, perhaps, a bit worked.
White
2012 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chardonnay Bourgogne Blanc
slight peach and other stone fruits, cream and spice…more of the same on the palate, medium length. Super simple but nice enough.
White
2012 Olivier Leflaive Meursault
Peachy spiced notes, toasted notes, cream, butter over lemon meringue…juicy, fruity, fresh peach fruit, spice, medium plus length. Very, very nice indeed.
White
2013 Domaine Bernard Defaix Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet
Fresh lemon and citrus over cream with and butter with spice…sweet ripe fruit and peachy on the pate but a bit short and flabby. Meh.
White
2012 Domaine Louis Michel Chablis 1er Cru Séchets
Lemon and spice, quite rich…ripe citrus but a little short, biscuit notes here as well. Hmm.
Flight 4 - Bracket 4 - the rest - up to 80 or no scores (2 notes)
Only a couple of these as time was pressing…what a pity that I didn't choose more wisely
White
2012 Domaine des Malandes Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu
lemon, cream, slight spice, struck match…juicy, fresh with lemon, cream and slightly biter. Quite long and quite pleasant. Needs time.
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White
2008 La Pousse d'Or Santenay 1er Cru Gravières Blanc
meaty and savoury! Struck match and cheese…slightly sour and unripe stone fruit. Nah.
Flight 5 - Bracket 5 - Grand crus and top scorers (avg 90+) (12 notes)
The Mongeard-Mugneret was just stunning followed by the Bouchard Pere et Fils Le Corton so, pricewise, no competition there!
Red
2007 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Charmes-Chambertin
Funky! Brett, farmyard, slight cherry and almost mint - a touch disjointed…more integrated on the palate with flavours of red over black berry, plentiful spice and fair silky tannin, grip. Long. Non- intrusive alcohol on the finish. Nice
Red
2011 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart
Red cherry and berry that is quite concentrated, stalks, cream, new oak…wet, slightly bitter spice, muted, lacks fruit, flour textured tannin. Massively disappointing.
Red
2012 Bouchard Père et Fils Corton-Le Corton
raspberry and strawberry over slight cherry, spice and slight stalk but very integrated and elegant...More of the same on the palate with fine tannins, very slight bitterness on the medium plus finish but nothing less than lovely despite this.
Red
2012 Faiveley Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos des Issarts
muted but rich cherry, spice, cream, touches of liquorice…bit tart on the palate with cherry, spice and firm tannins. Hmm.
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Red
2012 Mongeard-Mugneret Vosne-Romanée
raspberries, strawberries, cherries over cream and sweet spice…juicy, rich, spicy, long, cherry fruit, front of mouth tight tannic grip. Balanced. Fresh. Superb. Glorious in fact.
Red
2011 Domaine de L'Arlot Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Clos des Forêts St. Georges
funky, cheesy, rich, cedary over slight cherry…a little thin on the palate, touch sour, chalky tannin. Meh
Red
2012 Faiveley Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Porêts Saint-Georges
Funky, slight muted, red fruit spice…rich, slight red berry fruit heavily balanced by spice with flour textured tannin which fruit persists. Long. Nice
Red
2012 Domaine Pavelot (Jean-Marc et Hugues) Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode
Graphite, cream, biscuit and slight cherry…meh on the palate, very anonymous (can something be very anonymous?) with drying tannins.
Red
2011 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux
Stalks, aniseed over muted but perfumed fruit…Red berry fruit, spice, quite dry tannic grip and considerable spice on the medium plus finish. Okay
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Red
2012 Domaine de Courcel Pommard 1er Cru Grand Clos des Épenots
Stalks, a little green, medicinal herbs over black berry fruit….medicinal herbs, black berry, chewy slightly chalky tannin, cherry. Quite structured and broad on the palate. It's rather nice but needs a bit of time
Red
2010 Domaine Parent Pommard 1er Cru Les Épenots
Funky, cheesy, muted fruit, cream and meat….black berry fruit, plentiful spice, alcohol heat, chewy tannins, very grippy. Disjointed and, perhaps, too young? Hmm
Red
2012 Benjamin Leroux Volnay
Medium minus intensity aromas of perfumed and slight alcoholic red berry…medium plus flavour intensity of spice and red berry (raspberry) then front of mouth tannic grip. A bit short. Simple but nice.
Flight 6 - Bracket 6 - second tier excellent wines (avg 85-90) (6 notes)
Dom. de Montille over the Ecard - again, no competition pricewise 261AUD vs 79AUD
Red
2011 Domaine de Montille Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds
Aniseed and stalks, rich and spicy, over red and black berry…sweet red and black berry, spice, juicy, then talc textured tannin and non-intrusive alcohol warmth. Long. Glorious. Shockingly good.
Red
2011 Joseph Drouhin Côte de Nuits Villages
Funky, bretty over slight cream….slight sour fruit on the palate. Ugh. Nah.
Red
2011 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin
Medium minus intensity aromas of slight metallic red fruit, warm but mutes spice…red currant, spice, quite juicy then drying tannins. Hmm
Red
2012 Jean-Luc & Eric Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin Mes Favorites Vieilles Vignes
lovely ripe cherry fruit, polished oak, quite 'Oregon' on the nose…ripe cherry, spice, juicy, chalky tannins. Needs time but nice.
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Red
2011 Domaine Michel & Joanna Ecard Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Les Serpentières
Stalky and slightly chalky, berry fruit, forest floor, nice nose…sweet berry fruit, pencil shavings, silky tannin, non-intrusive alcohol heat. Long. Very nice indeed.
Red
2009 Domaine Follin-Arbelet Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Clos du Chapitre
funky, cheesy, bretty…juicy but funkiness dominates then massive drying tannin. Nah.
Flight 7 - Bracket 7 - good wines average score 80-85 (10 notes)
Villamont, Tardy and the Esmonin (esp. on price bracket) in this lot for me
Red
2012 Sylvie Esmonin (Michel et Fille) Côte de Nuits Villages
Biscuit and ripe cherry, sweet spice, nice nose…more of the same on the palate rather happily, quite rich and opulent with talc textured tannin. Nice
Red
2011 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Marsannay La Montagne
Medium minus intensity stalks, graphite, spice, red berry fruit…more of the same on the palate, chewy tannins, spice. Okay
Red
2011 La Pousse d'Or Chambolle-Musigny
Muted caramel and ripe red berry fruit, slight metallic quality…spiced ripe red fruit but all a bit anonymous. Meh
Red
2011 Louis Jadot Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Fuées
red berry and slight spice, again a slight metallic quality…spice red berry fruit. Meh
Red
2012 Domaine Jean Tardy et Fils Nuits St. Georges Au Bas de Combe Vieilles Vignes
Cherry fruit, spice, cream…juicy, thick bodied, rich, cherry, chewy tannin. Lovely.
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Red
2011 Domaine Chanson Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Fèves
cream, red berry fruit, rich spice, slight plasticine…rich, dense, red berry over cherry, quite cherry, non intrusive alcohol warmth…nice but needs time
Red
2011 Chanson Père & Fils Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Vergelesses
Funky, cheesy, lees, stalks, slight aniseed and red berry fruit…juicy, wet, slightly unripe red berry, front of mouth and mid palate silky tannin.
Red
2012 Henri de Villamont Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Guettes
Slightly funky, cream, red cherry over berry, sweet spice, slight leather and caramel oak…ripe cherry, juicy, fresh a little stalky, slightly chalky tannin…pleasing. Young but has plentiful fruit. Rather splendid.
Red
2011 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay
Medium minus intensity slight cork taint and muted red berry…juicy with sour red berry and chalky tannin. Meh
Red
2012 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Beaune du Château
Funky, leesy, meaty, slight aniseed and red berry and some biscuit notes…stalky with slight red berry, slight disjointed. Young. Hmm
Flight 8 - Bracket 8 - the rest - up to 80 or no scores (3 notes)
Hmm. Nothing to light the fires of wine passion here I'm afraid.
Red
2013 Fanny Sabre Bourgogne
Medium plus intensity cherry, stalks and spice…sweet fruit and berry. Bit obvious but nice.
Red
2011 Domaine Cornu Ladoix 1er Cru Bois Roussot
Stalky, smoky, dusty, chalky with muted cherry…slightly tart and spiced cherry, slightly chalky tannins. Young. Hmm.
Red
2012 Simon Bize Ladoix 1er Cru Le Bois Roussot
Funky farmyard, slight stalkiness, muted red berry, spice, cedar, cream…sweet red berry fruit , plentiful spice then slowly drying tannins and a touch of intrusive alcohol warmth. Okay
Closing
I'm not meant to be buying wine. This tasting has made that position untenable.