A Tour de Force Steve Clifton Tasting
Los Olivos, CA
Tasted August 9, 2015 by JonnyG with 468 views
Introduction
We were lucky enough to be the winning bidder for this outstanding donation package at a charity auction, where Steve and Chrystal shared a very wide selection of their revered, less well known and soon to be released bottlings. Our thanks to them and to the other generous donors of food and entertainment as well.
There was so much wine offered, my notes are regrettably sparse.
Flight 1 (12 notes)
Red
1999 Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noir Santa Maria Hills
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Maria Valley
Bottled before the winemakers could get their hands on Santa Rita Hills fruit. Fully evolved but hardly fading. The enticing bouquet of spice and cut flowers belies a very cloudy appearance. Any doubts are quickly done away with as the vibrant, acidity-laden wine hits the palate. Loads of plum and spun sugar flavor, fades a touch on the mid-palate but a real treat after 16 years.
Red
1999 Brewer-Clifton Pinot Noir Julia's Vineyard
USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
Also very cloudy in the glass, like its 1999 Santa Rita Hills brethren. More vegetal than the SRH, displaying earthy notes of mushroom and stewed fruit. Loads of acidity. Fades on the rear palate.
White
2012 Palmina Rea IV White
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
Only the Riesling characteristics emerged on the nose. Precise and clean in the glass, with well integrated varietals combining to create a very enjoyable experience. Loads of salinity alongside crisp notes of citrus, stone fruit and pepper. Outstanding summer juice.
White
2004 Brewer-Clifton Chardonnay Ashley's Vineyard
USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills
Everything about this beauty screams Burgundy (maybe Montrachet). Gorgeous, intense flavors of sweet citrus, white peach and herbs alongside impressive minerality. Fully mature, with rich caramelization emerging on the finish.
Red - Sparkling
2013 Palmina Barbera Spumante Walker Vineyard
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
Shame on me for low expectations. This took me straight to Lambrusco, in style and flavor. Cherry, pepper and cut flowers, with a layer of spice emerging on the rear palate. Will definitely put this into regular rotation. Bring on the cold cuts!
Red
2012 Palmina Sangiovese Undici
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
This one was served too warm so I couldn't get a good read on the bottle. I've enjoyed past vintages as a reasonable "Brunello-equivalent," though I have to confess (unlike with the Palmina Nebbiolo) I would grab an Italian Brunello every time.
Red
2012 Palmina Barbera
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
A fun quaffer. Juicy and bright, with loads of dark red fruit, smoky herbs and a tangy, chewy texture. Plenty of lift and an impressive finish.
Red
2006 Palmina Nebbiolo Stolpman Vineyard
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
A stunning bottle, loaded with fragrant red fruits, leather, licorice and a candied aspect. Past bottles did not evidence this typicity. Too bad Stolpman long ago pulled out their Nebbiolo planting.
Red
2008 Palmina Nebbiolo Honea Vineyard
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley
A very enjoyable bottle, even if a touch less impressive than the 2006 (from a different vineyard). A highly structured Nebbiolo, with a pleasing savory aspect but a bit lacking in depth.
Red
2012 Palmina Rea IV Rosso
USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Barbara County
Very interesting to see Steve Clifton take on Bordeaux varietals in a Super-Tuscan kind of way, pretty successfully in my estimation. Highly floral. The components are not too well integrated yet. The Sangiovese in particular stood out, acidity included.
Closing
Steve also poured three recently bottled Pinots that he says he has yet to name, let alone release. Since I didn't want to preemptively create CellarTracker entries, here are my brief notes:
2012 Machado Pinot Noir (not the Brewer-Clifton release): I only got a quick sip. The wine came across as a very typical, ripe and juicy Santa Rta. Hills Pinot, not sure how well it will age but very enjoyable right now.
2013 Kessler-Hawk "Peak" Pinot Noir: A really enticing wine, chewy, smoky and flavorful.
2014 Quinta del Mar "Secret Spot" Pinot Noir: This was a "wow" wine, weighty and rich, loaded with complex layers of flavor. Steve wouldn't say where it came from, so I anxiously await The Big Reveal.
The 2006 Nebbiolo was our consensus WOTN, though the mysterious so-called Quinta del Mar was not far behind. Needless to say, the breadth of offerings Steve touches is extraordinary, and this evening excluded his consultant projects. I am often critical of over-extended winemakers, who risk overwhelming consumers and diluting their craft. No such deterioration was evident with Steve's wine, and I look forward to the next chapter in his and Chrystal's illustrious careers.
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