Krug Night with Aldo Sohm
Aldo Sohm Wine Bar, NYC
Tasted October 15, 2015 by emzee.mc with 338 views
Introduction
As I am writing this, I am still savoring the smoky, intricate flavors of each of the Krug champagnes. It is definitely a story to be invited to this intimate tasting, and one that I will remember for quite a while.
It all started when I was refreshing Instagram a couple weeks ago, only to stumble upon an ad from Aldo Sohm (whom I would following as he is definitely a wine personality in NYC) mentioning a partnership with Krug Champagnes. Essentially, it is first-come-first-serve contest. Over six days, Aldo posted a question regarding Krug each day. And the first person to get it right each day would be selected for the tasting. Six chances in total. After days of refreshing Instagram every 30 seconds, I was lucky to snatch the golden ticket on the fourth day.
Our group of six eventually sat down, along with Aldo as well as Nicole Burke, the US Brand Ambassador of Krug. And over the course of two hours, we listened to Nicole as she recounted stories of each of the Krug wines. This, along with pointed opinions from Aldo, made the discourse extremely educational as well as thought-provoking. For example, we discussed about the impact of weather had on the ripeness of the fruit, and ultimately, on the alcohol levels, sugar levels and acidity levels of the wines and how they affected the champagne. This was definitely an eye-opening experience to me.
Flight 1 (5 notes)
White - Sparkling
2003 Krug Champagne Clos du Mesnil
France, Champagne
Purchased by Krug over the phone in 1971, the Clos du Mesnil is a 4.5 acre walled plot planted only with Chardonnay grapes. This vintage is marked by extreme hot weathers which made different plots of land yield different maturation levels. As a result, the berry picking span over 2 months than the customary 2 weeks. Aged for 9 years before release, this champagne pours a light straw color, almost like that of a Sauvignon Blanc, with thick legs and very fine beads. A somewhat austere wine, this blanc de blanc yields notes of toast, white peaches, citrus oils, comte, mint, chalk, tobacco smoke, slate and cream desserts on the nose. On the palate, the wine first caresses the tongue with robust masculinity, followed by a string of very fine bubbles and a mineral-forward backbone. Surprisingly for a vintage with very ripe berries, the champagne has vibrant acidity while maintaining an unctuous structure. On the palate, the champagne is dominated by notes of chalk, honeysuckle, leather, smoke, charred oak, brioche and smoked fish. With time, there are even notes of citrus oils. The finish is very long and spins with more smokiness. Although the wine is very young, as shown through the astringency towards the end, it surely shows the promise in years to come.
White - Sparkling
2003 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut
France, Champagne
Aged for 11 years with multiple disgorgements before release, this wine is composed of 46% pinot noir, 29% chardonnay and 25% pinot meunier. It pours a deep gold color with very thick legs. On the nose, a very strong brioche note supported by other notes of sugarcane, musky cheese, game, hazelnuts, beurre noisette and citrus oils. With time, there are even copious amounts of caramel popcorn. Compared to the 2000, the 2003 has more breadth and fruit potential but less forward and linear than the 2000. On the palate, the wine is fruit-dominated supported by a robust, mineral backbone and higher levels of residual sugar than that of the 2000. The effervescence is just lovely, delicate yet intense. There are notes of citrus oils, cheeses, spice, truffle and nuts on the palate. The finish is incredibly long and incredibly smoky, with a suppleness to boot. For me, I prefer this to the 2000, mostly because of the fruit-forward approach and generous body. This is just as Aldo Sohm puts it, sugar to champagne is like makeup. It allows it to blossom beautifully from otherwise austere, abrasive wines. And in this vintage, it certainly proves true.
White - Sparkling
2000 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut
France, Champagne
A blend of 42% pinot noir, 43% chardonnay and 15% meunier, this champagne pours a lighter gold color and thinner legs than those of the 2003. The nose is complex and heady driven by minerality and citrus. There are supporting notes of tropical fruits, granny smith apples, fresh cut grass and aloe. In fact, there are even whiffs of saline ocean air, almost like fishy smells, to it as well. On the palate, the structure is definitely thinner than that of the 2003. Nonetheless, the creamy mousse is still present with a bready character and a lightness to it. Notes of nori, smoked salmon, cider, toast, and citrus oils dominate the palate. Towards the end, the champagne yields a clean cut and a somewhat more restrained smoky scent than that of the 2003. Nonetheless, there is a raciness and balance to it like a great Ramonet Montrachet. Although somewhat acidic now, this will age well and develop into a more balanced champagne marked by concentration, finesse and lightness.
White - Sparkling
N.V. Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée
France, Champagne
The Grand Cuvee, according to Nicole and Aldo, is the hardest wine to make amongst the lineup because of consistency; that is, to create a wine that maintains the same profile regardless of vintage and vineyards. To do that, the tasting panel tastes 250 base wines over a long period and compiles 4000 tasting notes as a result. The panel then tastes 150 reserve wines (base wines made from past years) before Eric Lebel, the Chef de Caves, proposes 5 blends as candidates for production under the Grand Cuvee label. As a result of this arduous process and aging in the cellar, this champagne pours a deep golden color with pin-sized bubbles and thick long legs. On the nose are copious amounts of lemon custard, apricots, hazelnut oils, honey, leather, brioche, smoky hay and citrus. The palate is generous with a restrained character in both taste and effervescence. Notes of brioche, almonds, white peaches, Meyer lemons, brie, honey and mint dominate the core. Minerality is all the more present too. The finish is very long with a clear cut as the acidity levels maintain the balance. A very masculine wine, and one that is definitely age-worthy. This is even better than the last time I tried it.
Rosé - Sparkling
N.V. Krug Champagne Brut Rosé
France, Champagne
Made by the bleeding of pinot noir grape skins (saignée), the final champagne pours a deep salmon color with very long legs and fine bubbles. Surprisingly, for a rose, this champagne is very masculine with remarkable intensity. The nose is powerful, concentrated, and definitely dominated by pinot. Spice, currants, cheries, brioche, Kool-aid, and chalk are all there in the bouquet. On the palate, the wine is silky, toasty, robust yet light with remarkable finesse. In fact, the bubbles are barely there. Notes of walnuts, cheeses, berries, toasted almonds and mineral are there. The finish is long with a clean and elegant cut in the end. This is fabulous stuff and definitely one of the best Rose champagnes I have had in my life, ever.
One interesting story here from Nicole. The story goes that the first unofficial rose vintage is made in 1915 when Jeanne, the wife of Joseph II, accidentally bled pinot noir skins into the wine during World War 1. As a result of the sentimental value to the family, the rose wine was never replicated by the grande marque. In 1983, this all changed when Henri and Remi Krug decided to make it again, consciously. At that time upon tasting, their father Paul was so alarmed as he thought someone was replicating the Krug flagship. But in the end, he was placated then convinced by his sons. And that was how the rose line was born.
Closing
In the end, I have to extend my utmost gratitude to Aldo Sohm, his team, as well as Nicole and Krug. To be able to taste such legendary wines and vintages is a privilege on its own. But ultimately, this event allowed six wine aficionados to connect with each other over great bottles and to have the meaningful conversation with one of the most fabled wine personalities in NYC. This perhaps, is what great bottles are about - to be shared and to spark stories too.
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