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Two Etna Biancos

Tasted February 6, 2016 by HowardNZ with 271 views

Introduction

At a recent dinner we were each asked to bring unusual wines to serve blind. As my white wine, I brought a 2012 Terre Nere Etna Bianco. Thierry served his wine which I didn’t at all pick. On the reveal, I saw that it was the 2013 Terre Nere Etna Bianco so I stayed quiet about my wine and served it blind immediately afterwards …

Flight 1 (2 notes)

White
2013 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
89 points
Served blind. Pale with greenish tinge. A citric, stony, steely nose, with some lactic notes, suggesting barrel fermentation. In the mouth, nice, fresh and taut, with racy acidity. I thought it was not a Chablis, but the acid profile was somewhat Chablis-like. Mineral, chalky, with a little wet river boulder and citrus. Some nectarines and other orchard fruit. A little waxy, viscous, although not as much as the 2012, and lactic. It clearly needs more time (minimum 2-3 years) for the prominent oak to integrate a little more.
White
2012 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
90 points
Brighter, deeper colour. Also brighter on the bouquet with white florals, citric aromas, pineapple chunks and peaches. There was a little creamy vanilla, but not as much as for the 2013, and a fair whiff of seaspray. On palate, I strongly preferred the 2012 to the 2013. It seemed lower acid, but with sufficient acid. It seemed richer and riper than the 2012 with excellent phenolics, expressing itself as a pleasing bitterness on the long finish. The oak seemed more integrated and the oily, tactile mouthfeel more complex. The flavours were limes, melon, almonds, guava, wet limestone and clotted cream. Good dry extract, weight and volume. The wine was ‘cheese’ to the 2013’s ‘chalk’. Noone saw any link or similarity between this wine and the 2013, thinking that my wine was from the Rhone. Finishing the bottle the next day there was more pronounced salinity to match the fine citrus on bouquet and more salt and chalk on the finish. Overall, the wine was drinking better on the second day. Ideally, I’d still give this wine another couple of years …
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