Evolved, oxidative nose. Significantly fuller. Meaty and vinous with a slice of two of ginger. Finishes surprisingly freshly, but could see this being too evolved for some. ****

Mid to full straw.waxy lanolin nose. A hint of creamy vanilla too. Quite floral. Positive attack, quite light and even a little dilute on the finish, but the nose and the front end keep building and evolving. Really quite engaging.puts on weight and starts to show honeysuckle and acacia notes. Too dilute / abrupt on the finish for greatness, but this is endlessly complex and fascinating. ****

Proper old Tondo furniture polish nose. Rich, typically oxidative. Good depth and nicely waxy. Body and oomph here too. This has evolved and improved since tasting at the bodega in 2010. ****

Old vines. Dense, slightly musty nose. A touch of Riesling but this fits in well alongside the Tondo. The mustiness developed to corkiness both on the nose and the back of the palate. Shame.

Deep gold. Surprisingly rich nose with the sense of a good dose of RS. Quite padded through the mid palate, again surprisingly so. Finishes dry, but still quite rich. Keeps growing in the glass. Firms up on the nose after an hour or so to seem a little less rich. Power and complexity. Super. ****1/2

Mid gold. Slightly cheesy, Ampeau-esque nose. It opens up and cleans up though, and there's a hint of depth here. Rounded with a touch of honey on the finish. A pleasant drink, but not really Montrachet, but after a couple of hours this has filled out further, become far more complex and interesting with more floral aromas and flavours, warm butter and some mineral grip. Really quite attractive. ****

Mid gold. Depth and bite here. A touch of wax, lanolin, savoury and quite chewy. Nuanced. Some almond blossom notes emerging. Lots here. Turns a bit volatile after an hour or so. ****

Slightly curious nose. A bit mute. Takes a long time to coax and strawberry fruit out of it. Muddy and atypical though. There's something not quite right — the lack of sulphur hasn't done this any favours. No.

Double decanted four hours in advance. Bright red fruit, a touch of vanilla and a dusty complexity. Good underlying acidity. Plenty here, and shows good complexity as it continues to open over an hour or so in the glass, but this needs another decade. ***(*1/2)

Very muted. Not much on the nose let alone any great fragrance. Slightly herbal, dry. Richard is convinced it's corked, but if so it's not not woody corked, but certainly stripped / muted. Doesn't get worse though, but substandard in some way. Huge shame.

Slightly lactic, quite deep fruited. A savoury edge. Nicely dense fruit. There's plenty of interest here. Lovely. ****

Savoury nose. Some discussion about whether it's reduced, closed or just not particularly good, but with a bit of coaxing there's some nicely sweet fruit with a good dose of sous-bois. Ultimately it is disappointing for the appelation. ***1/2

Slightly savoury, dark red fruited nose. Dry on the finish. Very densely glossy front end. Curious this one, slightly betwixt and between at the moment. Slightly awkward phase but lots of promise. **(**)

Dense raspberry, slightly smoky with lots of white pepper. Poised and precise. Long and complex, this is beguiling and effortless. Very Chave and very lovely. *****

Very dense and floral nose. Approachable but still a little foursquare. A padded monolith. Does exactly what it says in the label, but I think Imwant a bit more nuance and less heft even if the fist is in a velvet glove. Develops a curious sawdust nose after a while. ***1/2 for me but your mileage may vary.

Sweet-fruited nose. Very floral. Some volatile lift developing. Faculties tiring by this stage. ****

Badly corked and not poured.

Deep gold. Lovely Vaseline nose. Some sweetness but more rich than sweet. Long and comp,ex. ****

Sweet, mellow, slightly herbal. Nicely resolved. I like Graham's. Could probably have done with a bit longer in the decanter to round out a little more, but this is lovely. ****