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La Grande Paulée at Cabotte

Cabotte, 48 Gresham Street, London EC2V 7AY

Tasted June 23, 2017 by VinoVeloVinyl with 550 views

Introduction

The first time Cabotte have organised a 'London Burgundy Week'. This closing party was pretty epic, certainly the only way I will be able to try some of these wines. The planned 2018 version will be held in March and if the quality of the bottles at that are half as good as this was then I will be booking a table as quickly as I can.

Flight 1 (29 notes)

White
2014 Jean Baptiste Ponsot Rully 1er Cru Molesme Blanc France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Rully 1er Cru
92 points
From magnum. Maybe I'm being over generous as this was the first wine of a very long night but this really was a cracking start. Lively lemon acidity perfectly counter balanced but some excellent palate staining cream and apricot fruit. Tight and stony finish should keep well in magnum for another five years at least.
White
2015 Domaine Bernard Moreau et Fils Chardonnay Bourgogne Blanc France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
85 points
From magnum. I'm a huge fan of Alex's wines usually but this seemed to fall a bit flat, not the smoky reductive style I've come to expect. Simple, easy going wine but I'd rather have something to talk about.
White
2014 Domaine Patrick Javillier Bourgogne Blanc Cuvée Oligocène France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Blanc
86 points
From magnum. Another Bourgogne Blanc that usually punches well above it's level. Tonight it seemed shy and tender given the illustrious white Burgundy vintage on the label. A gentle, charming wine.
White
2012 Louis Jadot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
91 points
From Jeroboam. Lovely minerally attack, this was super vivid and full of life. Lovely oak usage which lent support and depth. Some smoky/reduction notes detected which added complexity. Excellent fruit 'sweetness'. Lovely wine in a seriously impressive bottle.
White
1992 François Raveneau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
94 points
Still quite pale looking though some copper-ish glints at the edges gave the wine it's appropriate appearance. Field mushroom maturity, supple, fresh palate, gentle pulse of power but all in excellent balance. A dash of quince like flavour in the finish. Good mature wine. Poured by Adam from Baron Wines.
White
2014 Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chateniere Blanc Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin 1er Cru
93 points
From magnum. A really fine showing for this wine. Super smooth texture with a fine saline edge to the palate. This is a class act full of potential for beneficial development.
White
2002 Coche-Dury Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseignères France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet
This was, as everyone said, uncommonly advanced in maturity without falling into an obviously oxidative state. What a shame.
White
1996 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru
96 points
Further acclaim in addition to the numerous cellartracker plaudits this has already accrued. This is a proper titan of a grand cru. All the elegance and regality of Chevalier with a glorious old waxy texture and Leflaive richness. Tightly wound acidity keeps this intact and well balanced. There's still plenty of life in this yet. Remarkable wine.
White
2009 Arnaud Ente Meursault Clos des Ambres France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
92 points
Beguiling smoky nose, fashionably reductive. The palate was crisp and tight with a lime-like twang. Great juice here if you can find it.
Red
1996 Egly-Ouriet Coteaux Champenois Cuvée des Grands Côtés Vieilles Vignes Rouge Ambonnay France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois
91 points
Poured by Xavier Rousset MS. Nice little unicorn wine! Light bodied but superbly fragrant. Lots of acidity here, redcurrant and then medicine cabinet and cloves. Drink up.
Red
1982 Gros Frère et Sœur Richebourg France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Tasted but it was the end of the bottle and mainly sediment. Lovely flowery light flavours but I can't honestly appraise it so noted just for posterity.
Red
1986 Château du Moulin-a-Vent Moulin-à-Vent France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Moulin-à-Vent
91 points
Poured by Edouard Parinet of Chateau Moulin a Vent. This was a bottle brought directly from the estate cellar to show the potential for their wines to age. Silky soft, not hugely complex but light, refreshing, pure and lovely. Not too shabby for a 31 year old Beaujolais!
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
1947 Charles Vienot Aloxe-Corton France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Aloxe-Corton
92 points
IT"S ALIVE! How is this even possible? A village wine from an old negoce which was totally brilliant. Such a lovely wine, still dark in colour, this must have been forbiddingly tannic in the first thirty years of its life. Definitely on the earthy end of the flavour spectrum but I remember thinking that it had retained a semblance of dark berry fruit too. Some old toffee flavours in the finish which was soft and still singing. An amazing 70 year old Burgundy. At the time of writing this one bottle was for sale via Fine + Rare in London for £324.
White
1966 Domaine Ramonet Bâtard-Montrachet France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru
99 points
Words fail me. At 51 years old this was amazing white Burgundy. We kept a small amount back and drank it tenderly throughout the evening and it got better and better as the night went on. Still a bright lively lemon hue to the colour. Truffle and mushroom peeling along with honey, orange peel. Powerful in the mouth but with perfect balance. Rich and remarkable length. A truly humbling experience. Amazing to think that this was made by Pierre Ramonet in his 60th year, his 52nd year working in the vines as he had left school aged 8 to help his father! The stuff of legend. Can I have some more please?
1 person found this helpful Comment
Red
2000 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vigne France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
95 points
This is a superb rendition. All the hallmarks of a grand cru wine; precision and depth, lots of nuances, something new in every sip and makes the brain and heart race. Spiritual stuff. Very pure and still young. No harm jumping in now but expect another decade of bottle development.
Red
1996 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
90 points
Poured by Gearoid Devaney MS. What first strikes you is the ultra high acidity behind which is some fine grained tannins and soft, earthy, briary red fruit. A useful wine but sadly, on this evening, outclassed and not delivering the grand cru experience.
Red
1985 Domaine Francois Lamarche Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru La Grande Rue France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
86 points
Poured by Jordi Oriols-Gil. Label virtually decayed away, this must have come from a very damp cellar. This looks totally old and decrepit. And sadly smells way past its best. A sort of tarmac aroma with some orange peel/pomander notes. An interesting experience but from an intellectual point of view only
Red
2007 Geantet-Pansiot Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Poissenot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
91 points
I've been a fan of Geantet-Pansiot's 2007s in Chambolle since trying them at en primeur where they stood out for their surprising richness and depth. Here was something entirely in keeping with that. Massive blueberry and furry game tinged aromas. Very tight, strict acidity. Some drying powdery tannins and a big juicy dark fruit finish. This will keep and develop well still.
Red
2006 Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Aux Reignots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
95 points
From magnum. A gigantic wine, rich and opulent with meaty flavours. The scent of gunpowder. A stupendously aromatic finish. I think the hotline to The Almighty may get connected to this wine in time. Fabulous wine.
Red
1996 Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Grèves Vigne de L'Enfant Jesus France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
89 points
Old looking wine with glowing orange edges. Dried out, grassy nose. Petrichor scent. Older but not wiser. This baby Jesus is a bit tired. Drink up.
Red
1996 J. Confuron-Cotetidot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
94 points
From magnum. I've previously found the house style of 100% whole bunch off-putting and severe. However here was something of absolute majesty. So dark in colour still. A precocious, amazing concentration of blackcurrant. Lots of that whole bunch funk on the nose. Rich and profound wine with several decades of life ahead in this format. Bravo.
Red
1993 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
92 points
So this ought to be some sort of pinnacle of red Burgundy tasting. My first Vogüé Musigny and, well, perhaps if I had more time to get to know it I might have warmed to it a bit more, such is the world of a Paulée I guess. Distinct menthol aroma. A very solid, dense palate with umami, Bisto gravy flavours. Very marked acidity. Layered and rich but I needed an extra dimension to take my score higher.
Red
1985 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
94 points
Poured from a decanter by Ian who called it 'wine of the night'. Lovely, that seems like a very inadequate word to use to explain this wine. There were lots of floral tones in the nose which bounced off a kind of wet earth/autumnal morning walk in the forest to find mushrooms sort of smell. The fruit was red and dried out but the whole was very elegant and refined with a seamless graceful arc in the mouth. Remarkable really. My scoring seems silly in retrospect but seems to align with the average on here.
Red
2011 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Marsannay les Grasses Têtes France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Marsannay
90 points
Glowing luminous red colour. Full throttle red and black fruit up front with notes of graphite and coal dust. Feisty, powerful style with some raspberry liqueur notes in the finish. Time in hand.
Red
2001 Domaine Dujac Clos St. Denis France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos St. Denis Grand Cru
92 points
Lots of tannins still probably in part from the whole bunch fermentation. Supple and herby flavoured with earthy notes over some pretty red cherry fruit. Not quite the Dujac of my dreams alas.
Red
2009 Domaine Duroché Latricières-Chambertin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru
93 points
Really appealing fleshiness here. Super drinkable but with some marked acidity. Dark colour and deep flavours. Lots of black fruit concentration. Will keep and reveal more nuances. Sexy stuff.
Red
1990 Moillard Bonnes Mares France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
90 points
Cloudy, hazy appearance. Medicinal, clove oil like nose. Black olives. Definitely old school. Not much fun for my palate.
Red
1990 La Pousse d'Or Volnay 1er Cru Clos de la Bousse d'Or France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
90 points
From magnum. Lovely mature appearance with glowing autumnal hues but still ruby red in the centre. Lots of warm baked fruit and mellifluous mellowness.
Red
2008 Maison Albert Bichot Clos Vougeot Domaine du Clos Frantin France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
93 points
The last wine of an epic evening. Despite having had more than my fair share at this point this wine stood out for its lovely depth. Warm bramble berry pie, creamy texture, Great length and a luscious cuddly personality.

Closing

An exceptional night out.

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