Henry Comes to Tucson: 2001 Tuscany night
Tucker household
Tasted March 3, 2018 by cct with 310 views
Introduction
Henry came out for the weekend to escape the winter and play some golf. His son Eli joined us for this evening. We decided to focus on 2001 Tuscany for the second night. Food was comfortable and casual, and meant to serve as a background for the wines.
Flight 1 - Starters (2 notes)
Served with light food and walking around
The Keller made its way into the first course food as well
White
2008 Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Rheinhessen
On the nose, apricot pit and orchard fruit along with plenty of mineral stoniness. This is broader and denser than either of the Shafer Frohlich wines, but still with enough acidity to carry its somewhat Baroque frame. It lacks some of the subtlety and grace of the other bottles, but still outstanding in a more overt and powerful mode. 90
Flight 2 (2 notes)
Served with mixed heirloom tomato Panzanella. One of the nice things about the desert here is the ability to get ripe tomatoes in March.
The savory and mineral aspects of these wine were terrific with the herbal/acidity aspects of the salad
White
2005 Schäfer-Fröhlich Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Nahe
A slate and mineral driven nose, with some kaffir lime, fruit pit, but mostly rocks. On the plate, it has power with grace. The acidity, mineral, and less so fruit are all balanced wonderfully, and this some across as quite deft and fresh. Clean and pure. A serious wine drinking at early peak. Delicious.
White
2009 Schäfer-Fröhlich Bockenauer Felseneck Riesling Großes Gewächs
Germany, Nahe
This comes across a little younger and rounder than the 05 Halenberg. Dense, yet still with great freshness and balance. Yellow orchard fruits play a supporting role to the predominant mineral driven nature of the wine. Nice acidity keeps it fresh and it has very clean lines.
Flight 3 - Starting into Tuscany (2 notes)
Served with Kim's mushroom soup
Red
2001 Montevertine Toscana IGT
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
A ripe and deep nose. Red fruited and perfumed with strawberry preserves, some cherry fruit, menthol, leather, and florals. Medium bodied and finessed, with a sap and palate presence without weight. Density with balance, elegance and depth. Some leather on the back end. Drinking effortlessly well. Terrific with both the mushroom soup as well as the duck ragout. 93
Red
2001 San Fabiano Calcinaia Chianti Classico Riserva Cellole
Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG
Much larger framed and darker than the Montevertine. Dense and extracted, with darker fruits, and a little bitter chocolate. Rich and full bodied but with outstanding balance, and with enough acidity to carry it very well. Still youthful. 92
Flight 4 (2 notes)
Served with pappardelle with a duck confit ragout. The market had some killer duck confit this week, and while not archetypal Tuscan fare, it worked very well, and was a great partner to the wines.
Red
2001 Fattoria Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino
Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Beautiful perfume. Floral, strawberry preserve. Graceful if a nose could be that. On the palate, this is effortlessly beautiful. Great balance, depth with out heaviness. Deep and broad but with a softness (not to be read as fat, polished, or unfocused, but rather graceful and calm). Nothing here really reaches out and grabs, you, but rather it comes together seamlessly into a beautiful whole. This shared a sense of elegance and subtlety very similar in style to both the Montevertine and Pergola Torte. This grew and gained depth over the 3-4 hours. Great wine drinking at peak. 95
Red
2001 Montevertine Le Pergole Torte Toscana IGT
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Great perfume. Roses, strawberry and red fruits, and a hint of menthol. This is simultaneously powerful and graceful, understated and complicated. Fuller bodied and younger than the mid weighted Poggi di Sotto. This is wonderful, subtly intense, harmonious, beautiful wine. Plenty of structure, but all with grace and elegance. Fruit, savory and perfume all come together semanlessly into a terrific bottle of wine. Drinking at early peak for my palate. terrific. 96
Flight 5 (2 notes)
Served with a mix of ribeye and New York prime steaks and braised dinosaur kale.
Red
2001 Cerbaiona (Molinari) Brunello di Montalcino
Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
Deeper and darker than any of the other sangiovese wines this night. A fantastic deep nose that draws you in. Brooding and profound. On the palate, darker fruits, black licorice, olive, with subtle florals, and a sense of depth and stoniness all perfectly balanced. Structured, serious, wine of depth and power, yet still seamlessly cohesive. Fantastic youthful wine. 97
Red
2001 Tenuta Carlina Brunello di Montalcino La Togata
Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
A bottle I brought back with me from Montalcino in 2006.
Dark sangiovese fruit, strawberry preserve, some cocoa, some herbal savory tones, and a sense of stoniness on the nose. Ripe and broad, with some rough edges and rusticity compared to its company. Still on its own outstanding, it comes across ad structured and painted with a broader brushstroke. Drinking at peak. This wine's main crime was being served next to the Cerbaiona, which stole the show.
I will revisit the leftovers tonight and report back on its solo development.
Day two, this has gained focus and depth, and has outstanding balance. I like the herbal savory aspects of this wine,a dn they play beautifully to the deep fruit. There is a sense of stoniness on the palate that I really like. A little clamping tannins on the back end detract a bit. Drinking at peak and if anything a little better than last night.
Flight 6 (2 notes)
Served with a mix of ribeye and New York prime steaks and braised dinosaur kale.
Red
2001 Le Macchiole Messorio Toscana IGT
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Darkest colro and fruit of the night. Stony fruits, bitter chocolate, some vanilla, and nice perfume. On the palate the most overtly powerful wine of the night. Rich and decadent, yet structured and carrying its frame very well. Sap and density and palate breadth. The wood is not yet fully integrated, and this is a pretty hedonistic wine with the deep, pure fruit. Polished, but not in an overdone sense. This has balance and harmony. Serious, extremely well made wine drinking at early peak. 93
Red
2001 Antinori Tignanello
Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Herbal and savory more than fruit driven nose. Dark fruited an powerful, with outstanding depth and a nice balance to it. Rich, dense, and broad, with the fruit pretty round almost plump, but with balance and still the herbal savory undertones on day 2. I have yet to find a bottle of Tignaello that speaks to me, but this is outstanding and I think the defect in scoring is me, not the wine. Still outstanding. 92
Closing
Overall, these showed very well, with most drinking at early peak, with plenty of time in hand. The stars for me were the Cerbaiona, Poggio di Sotto, and Pergola Torte. It was a night of outstanding food and wine and better company.
Thanks for reading
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