#12-91, 7.5% abv. Initially I was getting some whiffs of TCA, but they would come in and out, so I wasn't entirely confident saying this was corked. There really was a lot to like here -- meyer lemons, a real hit of freshness, bright acidity and minerality -- but then the bottle turned.

#16-77, 10% abv. Probably one to drink up sooner than later. This is showing relatively advanced, though not in a flawed kind of way -- just an old kind of way. There's a minute bit of dirty funk on the nose here, but it does seem to clear up with air. Very ripe and fat, with some really rich fruit elements here, as well as a touch of brown sugar. For my palate, probably was better a few years ago.

#05-80, 10% abv. All the flaws!

#03-77, 10% abv. Weak and dull. Acid, but not much else; then the TCA started showing up.

#01-92, 8% abv. Corked. Another real shame, because it's so obvious the great material here.

#15-74, 10% abv. In a night of so many corked wines, I am immensely grateful that this wasn't one of them. It's as stunning as I remember it being -- primordially fresh, with so many tangy tropical fruits, and with such brilliant complexity. There's almost no secondary characteristics on this wine. It's like one of the Bern's wines where it's been held in suspended animation instead. The fruit really does come across as primary rather than secondary, and air helps expose this note of grapefruit that I really, really love. Absolutely splendid stuff.

#10-89, 8.5% abv. I'm not inclined to say this was heat-damaged, but it's definitely not a particularly sound bottle. There is a bit of oxidation here that seems out of place. Again, it's a shame because there was clearly some seriously great winemaking going on -- the fruit profile is really rich and intense, and with lots of complexity too. But this is shorter and more clipped than it ought to be.

#09-76. Initially, I had some worries this was like the Wehlener Kabinett -- this seemed a bit of a dull thud in terms of excitement, with lots of acid but not really much else. But this didn't develop any signs of TCA, and actually seemed to pick up a little more depth with air. Interestingly, this doesn't have the heft I'd expect from a Spätlese, and actually feels more like a Kabinett. There's a lovely freshness and brightness to the fruit and acid here. It's not mindblowing, but this really does taste like a solid old Prüm.

An awesome bottle that just kept getting better with air. This is a massive wine, with a heaping quantity of red and black fruit on the nose, as well as a serious amount of volatility in the form of an intense balsamic note. But then underneath that is a core of intense fruit and earthen power. With more air, the volatility attenuated, and the palate profile got richer and broader. For my tastes, this is definitely ready now, but further aging will not be detrimental either. I'll add as a postscript that this got even better the second day -- there was a glass leftover, and I had it with a hamburger. The volatility has mostly dissipated, and the fruit and herbal tones are out in full force, with some really awesome earthy notes as well. Stunning wine -- give this a lot of air if you are opening one now.