Rhone May Dinner
Bobo
Tasted May 13, 2019 by MC2 Wines with 214 views
Introduction
Busy spring so this was my first dinner of the year. A nice group of folks and a table that clearly was keen on Northern Rhone.
Flight 1 (17 notes)
A great menu again from Bobo.
First Course
Salmon Belly Tartare
chili oil, basil, whipped truffle cream
Second Course
Duck Leg Confit
sweet potato puree, scallion salad, truffle vinaigrette
Third Course
Confit Lamb Shoulder En Cocotte
swiss chard, creamy polenta
Fourth Course
Cave Aged Gruyere
Pleasant Ridge
Reblechon
White
2017 Domaine Yves Cuilleron St. Péray Lieu-Dit Biousse
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, St. Péray
Last year at one of our Rhone dinners we were told to keep an eye out for St Peray as the up and coming region. I would say the wines are definitely lovely and well-priced. This was no different. It's very light and easy. Goes against the classic style of Rhone whites which I always think of being more full bodied and rounder. Lots of acid. Very easy drinking. Perhaps not so complex and overshadowed by some of the 'fancier' whites, but if I was picking a wine to drink out on the terrace in the middle of summer this would be my pick.
White
2007 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc Le Méal
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Very different than the St Peray which was all acid and light. This also has some great balance, but it is a full mouthful. Reminds me of when I sucked the honeysuckle nectar as a kid. Bit of that white flower and bit of the honey (with a consistency that is very reminiscent of honey). Pretty and powerful.
White
2011 Ferraton Père & Fils Ermitage Blanc Le Reverdy
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Funny to have this wine again at Bobo almost a year apart. It's drinking quite nicely. Much bigger mouthful than the St Peray which was quite lean but much crisper than the Le Meal that we were drinking alongside. Nice acidity. Enjoyable wine.
Red
1982 Emile Champet Côte-Rôtie
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
I wasn't totally sure how this would work out given it is on the older side, but I was quite impressed. Really lovely and elegant. I didn't know Syrah could be so light. Looking at this in the glass you can almost see through the wine. It's getting towards end of life, but there was life left. Some tart red fruits, a bunch of red petals, a nice hint of spice. There's an almost crisp note in the middle. Very enjoyable. Glad we have another bottle.
Red
1985 Marc Sorrel Hermitage Le Gréal
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
For some this was the WOTN and it was definitely a really nice wine. Lots of meat and iron. Better structure than I sometimes find in Hermitage and yet lots of power. There was almost a hint of effervescence at the beg when first poured, but that went away pretty quickly.
White
2016 E. Guigal Condrieu La Doriane
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
This wine is just full throttle. Tons of white flowers, a bigger mouthful and then a ton of acid that seems to be the balancing point for it. More intense and a bit less refined in its approach. I wonder if maybe a few years might let it calm down a bit.
Red
1995 Patrick Jasmin Côte-Rôtie
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Perhaps not the greatest vintage although I've found myself to be a fan of '95s from the Rhone in general. I think perhaps because they are drinking well now. Same was true for this wine. The nose was quite vanilla but that didn't translate to the palate which was more red fruits and a bit of spice. This opened up nicely through the night and seemed to get better and better in the glass.
Red
1997 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Jamet is always a favorite of mine and old Jamet is even better. Hard to track down unfortunately. This is exactly what I think of when I think of this producer. All blood and meat and animalistic and at the same time elegant and sharp and pulled together. Really good.
Red
1999 Mathilde et Yves Gangloff Côte-Rôtie La Barbarine
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
This was a shy one this evening. There was talk of whether it was a bad bottle or just in a dumb phase and I'll say it was hard to tell. Definitely felt like a veil covering the wine. You can get the blood and ink and spice and fruit, but it doesn't jump out of the glass at you like some of the other wines. Kept coming back through the evening and there was a hint of movement with more air (so maybe more dumb phase), but I don't think it ever got to where it could be.
Red
2001 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Two Jamets in one night! (we also had the '97). This was lovely. I find '01 to be one of the more elegant vintages from the Rhone and that was true of this as well. Similar to the '97, but the more dominating flavors were floral and fruit and the blood and iron was a bit in the background which made the wine come across as a bit more refined. Both delicious.
Red
1978 M. Chapoutier Hermitage La Sizeranne
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
How fun to get to try! Don't see a lot of '78 Rhones running around. Funny - this wine is still going really quite strong. My first impression is vanilla and unlike with the Jasmin earlier this was true both on the nose and on the tongue. For me it overshadowed most of the other flavors in the wine. Which was drinking younger than I would have expected. I might have guessed it was 20 years younger. Still has those great age characters that take time. Well done.
Red
1999 Patrick Jasmin Côte-Rôtie
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Funny to see the name on the label change between the 95 and the 97 (although of course Jasmin remained). This was very much old school style. Very clean and crisp and well structured. Lower intervention - feels like the black fruits just shine right through. Balanced by the more meat and bacon tones. Tasty.
Red
2001 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Another bottle that came across as a bit muted on the initial pour although it opened up nicely through out the night. Lots of the blood and mineral notes. Tasty wine.
Red
2000 Rene Rostaing Côte-Rôtie La Landonne
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Out of magnum. We had this a few months ago and I thought it was drinking incredibly well. Same was true again tonight. There's a nice integration between an almost black plum and more savory fruit and the more savory meaty notes. Very nice wine. Glad we have a few resting. This is drinking great, but I don't think it's going anywhere anytime soon.
Red
2004 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Cornas
Lavender jumps out of the glass. Black fruits too. There's this very refined sweet note somewhere in the wine that surprised me. Tasty. At times I think '04 gets a bad rap in the Rhone - the wines seem to be drinking quite nicely these days.
Red
2000 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Getting to the end of the night and so a lot of bopping around and sharing of wines. This was nice. I have fun in my notes although not 100% sure where i was going with that. Good age on it, but still young. Nice to get to try.
White
2007 André Perret Condrieu Chery
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Condrieu
The last wine of the night so needless to say the notes were not quite as in depth at this point. My recollection though is this was nice.
Closing
Lots of great wine tonight. I found myself coming back to that Champet. I loved how light and soft and elegant it was. I think for most at the table the WOTN was the Sorrel 85.
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