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Echezeaux Dinner

State Street Manor - Chicago IL

Tasted March 31, 2021 by Burgundy Al with 141 views

Introduction

A few friends got together to taste Echezeaux from two of my favorite producers, from the same two vintages.

Flight 1 (2 notes)

White - Sparkling
1990 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon France, Champagne
92 points
Still vastly rich and concentrated with a broad and complex array of fruit. A bit more butterscotch than I’d prefer, but it is 30+ yo. Still great now, but better 5 years ago.
White
2013 Coche-Dury Meursault 1er Cru Caillerets France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
94 points
I wish I opened and decanted this a few hours in advance. But I didn’t. Massive matchstick reduction as expected, this ever-so-slowly dissipated, much more quickly on palate vs nose. Density I would typically only expect from Grand Cru with intense and layered orchard fruit coming from all directions. While most 2013s are ready now, this is just teasing us with what it will be.

Flight 2 (4 notes)

Red
2002 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
92 points
In Echezeaux flight. This started slowly, nice and interesting, but lacking nuance. Ever-so-slowly, this opened up and emerged with layered red cherry and Asian five spice, and became much more interesting once opened 90+ minutes. We were able to coax this into an elegant wine at its peak. Charming now, but drink up.
Red
2013 Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
92 points
In Echezeaux flight. Red and black cherry throughout with some background woodsy spice. There was a clear vegetal note here to start, and it never fully disappeared, much like with the Rouget 2013. This will probably be more elegant in another year or three, but is close to its peak.
Red
2002 Emmanuel Rouget Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
95 points
In Echezeaux flight. So easy to adore to start, this keeps getting better and more complete each time I tasted it. Ripe and powerful with some rough edges when first served, all that awkwardness was gone an hour later. So brilliant now, this might even be be better in five more years.
Red
2013 Emmanuel Rouget Echezeaux France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru
In Echezeaux flight. A perplexing wine. Started with so much reductive SO2 and backward character that was frankly unappealing, despite it clear Grand Cru density and stuffing. 2013's green pepper, vegetal element could not be completely missed. Gradually, begrudgingly, powerful black and red cherry emerged with meaty character and woodsy spice. I never refilled my glass, and by the 2-hour mark it was enticing and enjoyable. Others who refilled kept finding it rugged and unwelcoming. This will need 5 years in the cellar, and 10 would even be better, making this the rare 2013 requiring such patience. 90-92 point potential, based on how it loses that green bitterness and retains it Grand Cru density.
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