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89/90 Bordeaux @ Hawksmoor

Hawksmoor, Guildhall

Tasted August 23, 2021 by SimonG with 175 views

Flight 1 (1 note)

White
1990 Château Olivier Blanc France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
90 points
Last of the case. Medium to full straw. Quite viscous. A touch of wet wool and lanolin. Semillon texture and flavour profile. Fills and puts on weight with air. Very decent for what it is. ***1/2

Flight 2 (2 notes)

Red
1989 Château Lynch-Bages France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
95 points
If not tip-top, a very good bottle of this after some variable experiences. Deep ruby. Dense cassis on the nose. A little richer and more rounded than the 90. Nicely rich with a good line. A touch of sandlewood. Really lovely. My no.2 of the night. *****
Red
1990 Château Lynch-Bages France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
93 points
A step up on a previous bottle, but still a little four square cf the 89. Similar colour.similar blackcurrant nose with a slightly dusty top note. Velvety with slightly furry tannins. Classic, archetypal Pauillac. Very good but just lacks some flair if one’s being critical. ****

Flight 3 (2 notes)

Red
1989 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
flawed
Beautiful sanguine ruby, slightly prunes element to the nose. A touch maderised? A little pinched on the palate too. Something not quite right here. Maybe low level TCA rather than oxidised? Stripped anyway. Shame, as this can be an absolute beauty. On this showing *** / 88
Red
1990 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
95 points
Similar colour to the 89. Nicely classical nose. Really lovely, rich and smooth. Silky to the LB’s velvet. Blackcurrant but with a nicely cool structure coming through. Just lovely. my WOTN. *****

Flight 4 (2 notes)

Red
1989 Domaine de Chevalier France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
93 points
Smooth, rounded. Classic tobacco, cigar box and warm gravel. Rounded, a little more weight than I remember from previous bottles with just a touch of heat.****
Red
1990 Domaine de Chevalier France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan
94 points
Smooth, rounded, cool fruited, nicely dense. A little darker and denser than the 89, but also a little more composed and assured. Cool elegance. A really good showing as I normally prefer the 89.****1/2
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Flight 5 (2 notes)

Red
1989 Château Phélan Ségur France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
92 points
Quite a showing. Nicely cool, classical nose. More weight and padding on the palate. Sweeter fruited. Classic cassis and cedar. A touch four square cf the Talbot. ****
Red
1989 Château Talbot France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
94 points
Consistent with a bottle five years ago. Classic claret. Lovely line. More elegant and complex than the Phelan. Nicely mature, just a lovely drink now. The right balance of maturity, vitality and sheer drinkability. ****1/2
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