2018 base (to stand in for a corked magnum of 2002 Gimmonet VV). Sharp and refreshing at first, with crabapple and quinine - and a touch of cider! With more air the nose developed and brought scents of hyacinth, caramel and honey, and the palate softened down somewhat. Very grown-up, and no trace of the warm vintage.

Delicate herbs and honey, with musky floral notes showing themselves between times. Quite sharp, with a bitter finish, although that softened with time in the glass.

Very easy-going, especially at first, with a caressing, water-like mouthfeel and a rather fey and floral nose. Chamomile and yoghurt on the seductively creamy palate, then a kick of acid to drive energetically through the finish. The overall effect was like the kid brother of a white CNDP. Good, but probably not a repurchase (£48 on the table).

Really good, and surprisingly approachable given it's a young Corton. Sensual and aromatic, with dark cherry and floral notes. Lots of dark fruit on the palate, good length and acidity, an ashy quality that added complexity, and everything nicely integrated. Drinking very well.

Another 1996 that didn't seem to hang together perfectly. Truffley nose, with a touch of meat, and soft flowers with air. Quite punchy on the palate, slightly green, with a sharp, metallic finish.

Soft, sensual, sweet and lovely. Gentle cassis and meat on the nose, some succulent red-fruited zing on the palate, then a very long and exotically-spiced finish. Really great, but potentially on the turn, as it lost energy after an hour or so.

Really glorious, with plenty of stuffing and drive. Flowers and offal on the nose, then deep and concentrated on the palate, with vivacious raspberry fruit. Mouthwatering and complex! Perhaps unsurprisingly this seemed to have the brightest future of the four wines in the flight.

Very nicely mature, with a sweetish nose of smoke, truffle and hung meat. The palate was equally tertiary, with some tangy fruit still evident but the flavours dominated by damp earth and ash. At the height of its powers, on the cusp of senescence. Probably just about my favourite of the flight, because that ashy note was so unique and addictive - superb wine.

Really interesting on the nose, with spearmint and spice and (with air) creamy caramel. Amazingly fruity on the palate, by turns tangy and brambly, then sweet and strawberryish. Very, very long on the finish, which started out quite grippy and became quite spicy. The wine continued to develop throughout the lunch in a most impressive manner - probably my #2 of this extremely competitive flight.

Decanted around two hours. Wow! Still a big, dark wine, although pleasingly even-bodied, and with notes of pine needle, cherry brandy and medicinal clove. Superb both with the food and as a digestif.