01101/1455. Opened at 2:30, served at 5. Ready from the pop, the profile is indeed from a ripe vintage with its full-bodied, rich flavors. Signature early era lime-stony and tremendous weight, not much sesame reduction. Sweet, chewy, sizzling tension. Somewhat more singular when served next to the other whites tonight. 95

00245/1986. Opened at 2:30, served at 5. Sesame reduction, so classically Leroy. Bright, toned, but immense concentration and graceful balance, something she did right in this white vintage. When it warms up there is notable razor-like acidity that will keep this wine alive for decades more. At the end of dinner, after seven hours of air, the intense sesame still refuses to dissipate, and remains so focused. That is winemaking at its best. 97

1904. Opened at 2:30, served at 5. Somewhat musky at the opening but it really thrives with air. Served blind it can be mistaken as Dujac, smooth, robust, and lots of stem in this vintage. With time it becomes more ethereal. Not really green, just light and fresh. 94

1173/7660, PnP. Needs air to clear up the slightly musty cherry flavors, opening up to gorgeous perfume. Earthy, lacy, pure and heavy-weight. Very much the expression of its terroir. 94

00592/2871, PnP. This is a knockout Monty, drinking perfectly. Incredibly rich and textured, full spectrum of flavors, not heated at all! It is quite complete that the nuances even outshine the Leroy CC served before, with perfect acidity level for the vintage. Yellow fruit, pear, clear, crisp. It is such a vintage that reveals its perfection so early. 98

01132/1455. PnP alongside En La Richarde. I decided not to open early as this wine was in the perfect (early) drinking window, but it again kept gaining weight with air today. Classic oily early d’Auvenay, not much notable reduction, super high acidity for the vintage. Consensus is it is a little more weighty than En La Richarde, perhaps more edgy too. With that said, not as rounded as the bottle the day before, so maybe it needs the air. 93-94

00942/1224. PnP and served alongside Folatieres. The cork actually says “En La Richarde Dit Les Folatieres” so it is interesting that this parcel should be village. It does taste a little less substantial than the premier cru, perhaps more rounded but with such classic Puligny fruit and acidity. The 90s are a different style but they are so true to its terroir. 93-94

01653/7899. Opened at noon, served at 6. I’m not sure if this really needed all the air, but it was a beautifully perfumed 1er weight wine. Classic stem, reticent perfume, some roses, so bright with wonderful hue of coolness, true to its vintage. Consensus is this wine is declassified for a reason, the weight is no match for the other cuvées. With time in glass some bitterness emerged as well. 93

1194/7660. Opened at noon, served at 7. Much much better than the bottle yesterday, this wine needs all the air. Leroy perfume, so transparent but weighty. Not at all dirty, but earthy and woody true to Vougeot characters, with bright lacy red fruit in the front. Weight is grand cru indeed; a big terroir likes this really depends on the producer! 94-95

00789/1010. Opened at noon, served at 7 alongside BM. I did not have high expectations with this wine given my last interaction, but it surprised positively. Needs another hour in the glass to unlock the transparent lacy nose, and the gaining precision. Very Gevrey with its light touch. 95

00884/1158. Opened at noon, served at 7 alongside Mazis. Bomb. Aromatically enchanting, it is perfectly balanced, smooth but big. Finest tradition of Chambolle, always the most sophisticated. Silky tannin, such elegance, such purity and such concentration, what a beautiful wine. Easily WOTN. 97+

P.S. it needs air, not at all “thin” as I thought drinking this last time.

1903. Splash decanted for half an hour and served blind. Actually more open than the bottle yesterday which was slow oxed. Stem still smells like Dujac, but more pure, with light blue fruit in the background. I think it is identifiably Rousseau, and half the table did guess Chambertin. Although they thought it is much younger, post-2010s, and that should be a good indicator on the youthfulness of this wine. 94

00246/1986. Opened at noon, served at 9. Decided to serve this at the end of the evening like what Madame does chez Leroy. Beautiful sesame reduction, so concentrated and focused. It was more chewy and weighty than the majority of the reds tonight, perhaps just alongside BM. It will take a few more decades for it to be truly emotional. 97+

Lot 14, disgorged Feb 2016. This is the most Pinot rosé champagne I have tasted. Fresh and sparkly but quite tanninc, with a still red wine profile of stem and red to purple fruit. Very yeasty, high acidity. When drank at night (with fried chicken) the bubble disappears and it can easily be mistaken as a natural, skin-contact still red if served blind. Paired super well with grapefruit and dessert at brunch; simple, not too complex. 91-92

186/768, decanted to serve. High acidity as expected, but very balanced with its richness, and very good structure for its appellation. Yellow fruit, stony, mineral, weight kept gaining. Something about CdN white that is so robust at its core. Liked it even more than last time. 93-94

Served next to the 96. Lifted hawthorn aromatics, so much spice, cherry juice, perfect acidity characteristic to the vintage. Fresh and immediately pleasurable, it however declined quickly. Eye-opening amount of sediments, with tannin to follow. 93

Served next to the 95. More sesame and reduction, perhaps even prettier, but less acidity or Leroy aromatics. Smooth and spicy on the palate. More integrated tannin. Certainly held itself in front of the Leroys. 93-94

1356/2630, breathed for three hours then splash decanted for half an hour to serve. Gorgeous bouquet of high-toned red fruit, mouthwatering acidity, flamboyant, so spicy and so pure. It is more immediately perfumed, and perhaps wider, than the Richebourg. Superb concentration, elegance without any heaviness. Early drinking vintage for Madame; further upside expected with age. 96+

1289/2632, breathed for three hours then splash decanted for half an hour to serve. Initially more reserved than RSV, but it opened up to reveal such a dense, focused and massive core. Pure ethereal blue fruit, deep spice, creamy vanilla, some stem embedded under, so classically Richebourg at the perfect balance. Edgeless, dimensional, so complete, forever lingering all around. It is such sensation that qualifies it as the very few finest of the finest. By some margin my favorite wine among a more than stellar lineup. 98+