#14-19. Very sappy and ripe, with an almost chewy amount of minerality on the back end. A fantastic, if riper, edition of one of my favourite rieslings.

Served double blind. A little thin and maturing, and I thought this was a little older than it was. Overall a very light complexion but surprisingly tannic. Wasn't immediately certain that this was gamay at all.

Served double blind. Clean but slightly carbonic and clearly Beaujolais. Feels very light and a bit underripe; guessing that this was maybe a 2011 or something like that?

Served double blind. A slight bit of pyrazine/green had me initially thinking Loire red, but the tannins weren't quite right (they were definitely more nebbiolo-like). Not being so ripe and rich, I thought this could be Alto Piedmont.

I served this double blind to the usual group. Not one suggested pinot noir on their first guess. I heard Hermitage, syrah, New World bandied about a fair bit. When I said that this was pinot noir, there was an interjection of "Kosta Browne?" There is an incredible amount of oak on a wine of this lowly appellation, and while there is lots of sweet fruit here, this wine is not holding its oak well at all at least right at the get-go. I am inclined to agree that this is perhaps not scaled correctly for what it should be. I left a glass in the bottle to see how it would evolve the next day.

Far better this second night. This is still incredibly oaky and rich, but overall much better integrated than the first night. It's really not made in a style I would consider idiomatic for straight-up Bourgogne AC, in that this is far larger in scale. But this has become far closer to what I remember the 2018 to be when I tasted it from barrel just before the advent of the covid pandemic. More of the classic Mugneret-Gibourg silkiness has emerged and so much of the sweet fruit has persisted. A vintage to tuck away -- I see absolutely little upside to opening any more of my meagre stash now, but I am glad I opened this one.

Served double blind. Very ripe and chewy with a distinct sweet blackberry note that had me thinking of Schramm's meads for a minute. Brutally tannic on the palate, while it was somewhat clear to me that this tasted like an Italian grape, my mind was just between dolcetto and barbera.

Served double blind. Reductively farty, with a thin and tannic body. Clearly gamay that is past its prime.

Served double blind. Quite reductive initially, this dissipated later on. Airy red fruit, light, and very lifted, easily drinkable and very pleasant. A big contrast with the Mugneret-Gibourg Bourgogne of the same vintage.

Poo in a bottle. Couldn't bring myself to taste it.

Served double blind. Clearly Loire cabernet franc from the pyrazines, and the bottle shape is the other tell. Ripe, with some drying fruit, but not quite as dirty as I remembered this wine being in the past.

Served double blind. Thought it was old Loire chenin, but there are some really off-putting cheese notes on the nose here. Wooly, too. Not my kind of wine at all.

Moderate reduction on the nose. Kind of dull, lacking the acidic brightness that makes Chablis Chablis, but there are nice stone fruit elements here.

Impressive richness and depth here. Clean with no natty or carbonic elements at all. Large-scaled and more black-fruited than red.

From magnum. Slight reduction, but carries the ripeness of the vintage very well, without going overboard. A mix of candied red and black fruit, and overall good intensity. Surprisingly good.

Very sweet and the sweetness started to go a little mousy with air.

From magnum. Next to the 2018, far more light and elegant, but in isolation a little too light on the palate, in that it's lacking a bit of flavour. Quite floral and clean.

From magnum. Structurally tannic for what this is, with fruit that is pushed on the ripe side. Not as elegant as the 2019.

Very sinewy, but also too much earthiness that detracts from the fruit. Not the cleanest wine, there seems to be some mushroomy things going on here. Darker fruit.

Very easy-going, red-fruited stuff. Clean and bright. I might even be able to drink a glass of this at a restaurant. Really not bad at all.

Less convincing than the 2020 version of this. This was too intense and chewy, but lacking the complexity for a more serious wine too given how fruity and juicy this was. Kind of stuck in a bit of a no-man's land.

Very nice for the level. Slight reduction, nowhere at the same level as PYCM, and less overt oak too, though there is some oiliness in the texture here. Sweet fruit with appropriate acids for the vintage.

Excellent for the price. Good ripeness and a bit of sweetness. Not complex but scratches the white Burgundy itch.

Definite step up from the Bourgogne. Honeyed florals on the nose with some floral sweetness as well.

Larger scaled and more structural than the Mâcon-Prissé. Sterner, with some more minerality and acidity.

Riper than most of the other wines, but with a slight bitterness as well. Great acidity for the vintage nonetheless.

Even more large scaled than the Terres Noires, but without the bitterness and with the fruit a little more subdued. More structural with prominent minerality and more acidity too.

A definite step up from the 2018 version. More elegant and shapely without losing the weight and fruit. Some saline notes.

Surprising green streak here; perhaps picked earlier? Not as ripe as the St. Verans, but definitely the broader wine versus the 2019.

Similar to the 2018 with a tinge of green on the palate, but more minerally and bright, with linear acidity.

Very structural, with good clean fruit and a slight green streak. Here the green seems to be much better integrated with the rest of the wine.

Surprisingly savoury, this was definitely the ripest and richest of the three Crays. Still feels quite well-balanced, despite the amplified fruit here.

Tiny hint of reduction on the nose. The most mineral-driven of the three Crays and probably my favourite.

Super weird stuff. A bit of a hand soap/detergent thing on the nose, but there is definitely an intense ginger flavour here, though it's more of the stalks of young ginger than the stuff you buy at a grocery store. Earthy and doughy too, oddly enough. A real head-scratcher.