Magnum 23/24. Aged for 11 months in oak before bottling, full malo, disgorged 14 January 2021, with a dosage of 2 gr/l. Quite an oaky style, richly fruity, generous and forthcoming but not the steely finesse I look for in Le Mesnil.

Finesse and power, red berries and confit fruit, acacia, elegant and flowing, spicy depth, citrus on the palate, noticeable bitters, excellent length.

Corked

Deep golden colour, rich and nutty, sherried but not maderised or oxidised, rounded and even oily in texture, spicy depth, citrus freshness on the palate, excellent persistence.

Bottled June 2016. Flint and citrus, could easily be mistaken for an elegant Chardonnay, noticeable bitters, impressive but in a way untypical.

On fine form, still at a youthful stage, very fresh and primary, flowers and peach, developing waxy maturity, bright acidity, excellent length. A great Kabinett.

Magnum. Hard to put a finger on this, oaky, nutty, suggestion of Meursault, rounded and rich but flabby, lacks precision.

Quite green on the nose, hay and grass, very fresh, tart citrus and minerals, very light for a Grand Cru but clearly the Bouchard style, nothing off and with good potential, creamy lemon, more like a good Premier Cru at this stage.

Deep and rich, clearly recognisable Roulot style, very rounded and creamy, lacks energy for my palate, slightly fuzzy finish. Not convinced.

Marvellous nose, fragrant and frivolous, delicate, lifted, sandy but firm tannins, slightly autumnal, long and nuanced finish. Toute en finesse.

Magnum. Grapes from many producers, but the Gevrey character is clearly represented - and also the stemmy Dujac style is noticeable in the glass. I like it better than both the Meursault and the Vosne-Romanée (tasted last year) from the same range.

Magnum. Recent release. Good depth, mature sweetness, quite rustic in style, spicy and a bit chocolaty, fresh and grippy but the aromatic development is quite advanced, the palate is fresher.

Deep and rich, fresh and tannic, spicy, not quite lovage, almost slightly cooked, very developed for what it is. Not sure that this is a correct bottle. Not rated.

Deep and rich, completely mature, firm and tannic, spicy and smoky, not hugely expressive.

Rich and plummy, flowers and tobacco, energetic and fresh, balance and tension, elegant weight, silky texture, beautiful length. Outstanding.

Deep and rich and sweet, ripe but fresh Grenache, huge power and contentration, powerful structure, barely noticeable tannins, remarkably elegant and pure for a wine of such dimensions.

Deep and rich and spicy, oaky and structured, balsamic, big and concentrated but lacks finesse (for my palate, you may disagree). Needs even more time, too young still.

Quite volatile, light and bright, raw finish, not correct. Not rated.

Acidic, hugely expressive but clearly volatile nose, has lost its fruit but lives on, armed and guarded by its steely acidity.

A powerhouse, huge tannic structure, big and ripe, excellent typicity, still youthful, an iron fist in a velvet glove.

From the Christie's catalogue (London 7th June 2007): "From the cool, damp cellars of a noted Country House in Southern England. Stored in the same cellars since the the vendor's family purchased the house in 1870 and according to notes and records found in the cellar, believed to date from the 1860's. Identified as Tokaji from the 19th Century ceramic bin labels and historical family knowledge. Recently analysed at an alcoholic strength of 14.44 by volume." Searing acidity, medicinal, deep and Madeira like, nuts and honey and apricot, incredible energy, huge power. You would never believe that this is approximately 160 years old. Amazing wine.

Gentle and sweet port, fruit and nut and spice, boudoir powder, a lovely drink.

Bottling date unknown. Sombre orange golden colour; hint of acetone on the nose, honey and Cognac; medium sweet palate, relatively friendly acidity, very good concentration and balance; citrus bitters on the long finish.

AP 37 90. Never released onto the market. Deep and rich nose, enormous concentration, initially an aroma of acetone, sweet apple and honey, spicy depth; marvellous tension on the palate between richness and racy acidity, tropical fruit; creamy finish with great length. A stunning wine - and a great privilege.

Still extremely young. Very impressive component parts, but they still need more time to come together. A fitting end to an incredible dinner.