Premiere Napa Valley
Napa, California
Tasted February 22, 2023 - March 25, 2023 by Alexander Smith with 466 views
Introduction
A trip of a lifetime? Pretty much. I set out on this trip to discover the 2021 vintage from barrel, discover some top end estates from the 2019 vintage along with tasting a handful of wines from the 2020 vintage which have been getting some mixed critic reactions. I also stopped by a couple of wineries I represent along the way.
Flight 1 - Three Sticks & Head High - Sonoma Coast masterclass (6 notes)
Three Sticks has to be one of those hidden gems no one knows about, they sell 80% of what they grow, so that 20% they keep tends to be pretty damn good. My favourites are always the Gap's Crown Vineyard, especially the Pinot Noir which is really unique. Head High is an entry level wine around $25 which is like a second wine to Three Sticks.
Flight 2 - Dutton Goldfield - The best of Russian River (6 notes)
Based out of Russian River, I always enjoy the wines of Dutton Goldfield. Lush and rich, yet with plenty of acidity to not fall flat. The highlight today was the Redwood Ridge Vineyard (think pine needles and forest floor)
This is the last vintage of the Riesling, this was bone dry showing notes of green apple, wet stone focus and tension, with a refreshing finish.
This showed notes of asian pear, tropical notes, vanilla tart, freshly baked brioche and jasmine. The palate was rich, round and lush with juicy peaches and yellow apple, the mid-palate was layered and a good amount of chalkiness, The finish was succulent.
Dark red fruit, strawberries, liquorice, black pepper, wild herbs and fresh earth on the nose. The palate was medium+ bodied, juicy and quite concentrated with fresh tannins, pepper and spice filling out the palate. One of the more intense and focused Pinot Noirs from Dutton. 93
First time tasting this wine, and actually a little different from other Dutton Goldfield wines at the tasting, as the name suggests this vineyard is surrounded by Redwoods. Aromas of dark fruit, blackberry, blackcurrant, pine needles, forest floor and wild herbs. The palate was medium+ bodied with a more gentle nature of dark/black fruit, wild florals, wet forest and summer herbs wonderfully integrated with fine nearly silky tannins. A wine I would like to spend a lot more time with....
A great Syrah to finish the tasting, very gamey on the nose with notes of black olives, bacon and dark cherries. The palate was medium+ bodied and powerful with dark red fruit, black pepper and spice filling out the palate, lush alluring yet a savoury mid-palate finishing a little spicy.
Tropical notes, orange blossom, elderflower and orange peel. The palate was rich, layered and very textured. The mid-palate showed significant weight, this reminds me of a Jura Chardonnay in textured. Not my style of Chardonnay, however this is really the vineyard showing it's strength. A food wine for sure.
Flight 3 - Dalla Valle 2020s - Who says 2020 was a bad vintage? (3 notes)
This tasting never disappoints, the 2020s were showing really well, 1-2 points behind 2018/2019, I found the fruit a little softer yet with still great structure and well integrated tannins. Barrel tasting 2021s was eye opening, this will be a phenomenal vintage, especially the DVO and Maya! Wow.
Certain critics were hard with the 2020 vintage in general, however after tasting some of the top offerings including VHR, Spottswoode and Dalla Valle I can safely say I will be a buy of this vintage. It certainly is not as big and powerful as 2018 or 2019, however I do find a lot to like about this vintage, more elegant and classic in style. 2021 seems to be all about tannin control and fruit purity, this will certainly be a concentrated, structured and long lived vintaged, cooler than 2018 yet with a few heat spikes along the way and coming off the end of a multi-year drought. 2021 Dalla Valle, Maya and DVO seem to be showing very well in barrel.
The Collina was a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot. This used to be the younger vines, however with less and less young vines this tends to be made as a smaller production. The nose is typically of Collina with blackcurrant, blackberry, wild herbs, savoury spices and black pepper. The palate is fresh and lifting with dark wild fruit, savoury herbs and a savoury underlining along with some peppery notes on the mid-palate. This finishes medium with a light touch.
Certain critics were hard with the 2020 vintage in general, however after tasting some of the top offerings including VHR, Spottswoode and Dalla Valle I can safely say I will be a buy of this vintage. It certainly is not as big and powerful as 2018 or 2019, however I do find a lot to like about this vintage, more elegant and classic in style. 2021 seems to be all about tannin control and fruit purity, this will certainly be a concentrated, structured and long lived vintaged, cooler than 2018 yet with a few heat spikes along the way and coming off the end of a multi-year drought. 2021 Dalla Valle, Maya and DVO seem to be showing very well in barrel.
The Cabernet Sauvignon from Dalla Valle is a blend of 80% Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc. Typically this is the pretty of the two (Maya vs Cabernet Sauvignon), however the 2020 showed especially pretty in the glass with red florals, blackcurrant, pine needles and sandlewood notes lifting from the glass. The palate was medium+ bodied with dark black sexy fruit, sweet spices, finely crushed rocks, fresh earth and black pepper. The mid-palate was velvety with spicy mocha notes along with firm yet slightly dusty tannins. There was both persistence and energy throughout the palate, a real journey through the senses. This finished elegant and long.
Certain critics were hard with the 2020 vintage in general, however after tasting some of the top offerings including VHR, Spottswoode and Dalla Valle I can safely say I will be a buy of this vintage. It certainly is not as big and powerful as 2018 or 2019, however I do find a lot to like about this vintage, more elegant and classic in style. 2021 seems to be all about tannin control and fruit purity, this will certainly be a concentrated, structured and long lived vintaged, cooler than 2018 yet with a few heat spikes along the way and coming off the end of a multi-year drought. 2021 Dalla Valle, Maya and DVO seem to be showing very well in barrel.
The 2020 Maya a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Cabernet Franc was as always the more serious of the wines in the lineup, yet showed a playful side this year. Aromas of Blackcurrant, cassis, blackberry, forest floor, eucalyptus and crushed violets lifted from the glass. The palate was full bodied with dark black fruit, pepper, spice, anise and wild herbs. The tannins were muscular yet refined and focused, the mid-palate was more deep and concentrated vs the Cabernet yet with wonderful elegance without feeling too heavy. This finished long with class!
Flight 4 - PNV Vintage tasting - Fresh and vibrant (4 notes)
A few brief notes, the Bond Matriarch was the standout for me today. Tasted about 20 others yet without sufficient notes to post something. Most of the wines were 10+ years, with most still fresh and barely moving.
My top wine of the morning, dark blue fruit, forest needles, full bodied, slightly rich mid-palate, firm tannins long and lingering.
slightly more closed than when I tasted back in May last year, firm tannins, dark fruit, crushed stones and sneaky length
Dark fruit, big broad and muscular with chewy tannins, struggled with this wine more than I hoped for.
Very much a complete wine and showing very well, has hardly moved yet is showing dark lush fruit, brooding yet with firm plush tannins and a long yet elegant finish.
Flight 5 - Oakville tasting at Brix: The Ups and Downs of Oakville (10 notes)
Spotlight on Oakville at Brix restaurant. Highlights included Morlet, Rudd, VHR and Tor. Disappointments included Bond, Harlan and Ulysses. Harlan was not properly prepared and hence tasted completely shutdown, Ulysses was just, well a mess.
Big, board and juicy, this showed notes of blue, black fruit, full bodied power house yet with elegance and grace. Fantastic potential.
Powerful full bodied, rocky, crushed florals, dark black fruit, muscular tannins, very lively acidity. This needs time to settle down, quite difficult to judge right now.
Spicy dark fruit, big and powerful, graphite shavings, lively acids and tannins again. A little difficult to read right now.
This wine was angular, simple and very disjointed, bit of wood, dry tannins no flow throughout the palate.
High % of Cab Franc which really set this wine apart from the others tasted today, bright red fruit, crushed florals, bay leaf, savoury underlining along with firm yet silky tannins, this showed very well.
This showed really well, dark black fruit, crushed gravel, crushed florals, pencil shavings, like licking a rock, spicy mid-palate, firm tannins great freshness as well, long lingering finish.
Very brief tasting note, Small red berries, sandalwood, pencil shavings great energy and persistence throughout. Awesome producer.
Brief tasting note, this was the wine of the tasting hands down. Blew Opus, Harlan and Eden out to lunch. Dark lush fruit, cassis, cedar, vanilla and baking spices on the nose. This was full bodied and is all about the wonderful dark black fruit which floods the palate along with an earthy undertone, cacao and bay leaf. The mid-palate is velvety and alluring finishing long a little spicy and lingering. I need a bottle of this. 98 Because I did not taste long enough to give higher, but this is easily knocking on the 99 point door
Edit: I got a bottle of this. :)
Brief tasting note from memory, cassis, blackcurrant, blackberry, pencil shavings, tobacco. Palate was full bodied, black fruit, rocky, mineral mid-palate long and structured. 96, but feel this might increase a couple of points in the years to come, Rudd is one of the producers I was most impressed by at PNV.
You cannot give 92 points to Harlan, well I am and guess what I am being generous. First time tasting this wine and wow not impressed at all, with around 30 wines tasted, this certainly was one of the lowest scoring wines of the lunch. Incredibly muted nose, blackcurrant, dark plus black tea, pencil lead shavings, firm tannins yet just very very closed down (my guess!) and not expressive at all. They decided to not decant the wine and even after spending 10-15 spinning the wine like a merry go round it just did not improve.
*Update: Based on feedback from the community, this wine needs A LOT of time, and so probably should not have been open to trade at this stage.
Flight 6 - Dana Estates - 2019s stronger than the 2016 vintage? (4 notes)
Incredible tasting at Dana. The Onda stole the show, not because it was the highest scoring wine, but because I saw a real development between the 2016 and the 2019 Onda. Helms became my new favourite single vineyard from Dana Estates, and Vaso continue to punch above it's weight.
The Vaso with majority Cabernet Sauvignon is using grapes from the younger wines, yet still the same winemaking team as those at Dana Estates. This shows notes of Darker fruit, bitter chocolate, tobacco, sandalwood, vanilla, baking spices and black pepper. The palate is big and muscular with rich dark spicy fruit, earthy undertone, firm grainy tannins with a medium spicy finish.
This was the wine of the tasting for me, aromas of cassis, blackcurrant jelly, blackberry coulee, orange peel, dark chocolate, unsmoked tobacco, black pepper and pencil lead. The palate was full bodied, muscular with firm tannins, waves of black fruit, velvety dark chocolate and Indian spices filled the palate which lead to a layered and succulent mid-palate finishing long and lingering. 96++
100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Helms, Rutherford. This is certainly my favourite single vineyard from Dana Estates. This is luxurious, seductive and elegant with notes of creme de cassis, dark chocolate unsmoked tobacco, all spice and sandalwood. The palate is full bodied, with big and broad dark lush fruit which flood the palate along with spicy chocolate and crushed floral notes. The tannins are velvety and seductive which leads to a refined and slightly rich finish. Wow! 97++
The 2017 Helms was showing incredibly well give the nature of the vintage. Aromas of blackcurrant, fig, dark chocolate and fresh herbs wafted from the glass. The palate was full bodied with dark and more developing fruit, fig and currents along with sweet spices filled the mid-palate, surprisingly fresh yet with that more fig texture showing the 2017 vintage. 95++
Flight 7 - Cornerstone - A secret label (8 notes)
What I love about Cornerstone is that there is more to the wine than what is written on the label. George III, To Kalon at $120? Yup! The Rutherford and Oakville Station are the highlights and are 40% of the price of other Beckstoffer designated wines. Great mouthfeel.
Sourced from Ink Grade, this showed more refined tannins than the Ink Grade wines in general, wild herbs and dark fruit along with more structured tannins vs the other Cornerstone Cellar wines, this could probably see a little more ageing but is drinking well now. Again Great mouthfeel.
My favourite of the lineup, this showed wonderful elegance and dusty tannins yet with structure and great purity of fruit. From the George III vineyard. This was round and filling yet driven through the palate. Great mouthfeel.
Slightly brighter and dustier than the 2018 with more elegance and refinement on the mid-palate. This just missed the structure and power of the 2018 vintage.
Lush dark bramble, cassis , fig, blackcurrant and unsmoked tobacco. The palate is rich, smooth and velvety with great mouthfeel and a medium finish. The grapes from here are supposedly from the UC Davis section of the To Kalon vineyard. I feel the only thing lacking which is stopping the wine from scoring higher is the tannin structure. This should be drank now over the next 5 years. Really enjoyed this. 92+
Pretty disappointing, a little funky, soft red fruit, quite lean and fades away quickly.
Rich, plump red fruit, round mouthfeel blackberry, plum, spice and vanilla. Long silky and velvety finish.
Flight 8 - 2020 - The COVID vintage (8 notes)
How bad is 2020? Pretty good actually. Ignore the review of certain critics, taste blindly and you will be happy you did. This won't go down as the best vintage in 20 years, but you will not regret buying any of the below wines.
Hora is sourced from the valley floor and shows notes of red cherries, dusty cacao, fine herbs, lightly crushed florals along with a delicate yet persistent mid palate. Finishing with a light touch. $125 USD/bottle
This showed a slightly darker and richer nose with dark cassis, violets, bitter chocolate and all spice. The palate was elegant and graceful yet with darker and richer fruit compared to the Hora, along with powdery tannins. The mid-palate showed dark bitter chocolate and spice, finishing medium and lingering. $250/ bottle
The Cabernet Sauvignon from Cathiard Vineyard is located at the top of the vineyard, this is higher elevation and shows much more concentrated and deeper flavours of cassis, blackberry, unsmoked tobacco, and bay leaves. The palate is medium+ bodied with dark concentrated fruit, crushed florals and herbs, the mid palate is quite velvety yet with elegance and grace like the other Cathiard wines. The finish is long and lingering. This is a real triumph of the 2020 vintage, yet at $390/bottle is not the best QPR of the vintage. At $190 would be a buy.
Brief tasting note**
Bright red cherry, cassis, sandlewood, cool anise and crushed rocks. The palate was medium + bodied with cool dark fruit layering the palate, along with a savoury and mineral driven mid-palate this leads to a focused finish.
This is the second recent vintage of Dominus I have tasted and left felted puzzled. Will this improve in 20+ years? Possibly, but I can't help but feel confused by the high scores and what I have recently tasted. It is possible the wine was not properly prepared, however I can only judge the wine on its presentation.
Brief tasting note, this was a touch yes just a touch behind the 2019. However a very strong showing, I would say more on the savoury and spice side vs the very plush fruit driven 2019. However still a very strong showing.
Very brief tasting note, dark black fruit, dusty cacao, violets, graphite and crushed rocks. The palate is medium+ bodied with a core of dark lush fruit and structured tannins. 92+
Flight 9 - Rivers-Marie - Buy all you can! (7 notes)
Tiny production from Thomas Rivers Brown, The Chardonnays had both energy and tension wrapped around a core of fruit, the Pinot Noirs showed refinement and more Burgundian in style, the Cabernets again nicely refined and focused. Highlights include the B. Thieriot Chardonnay and the Silver Eagle Pinot Noir.
This showed notes of white peach, pineapple, tangerine, orange blossom and vanilla. The palate was bright yet with a core of tropical fruit and bananas, the mid-palate was layered and slightly creamy, this finished long and textured.
The Chardonnay of the trip! This vineyard is located next to the Occidental and only goes to Littoral, Failla and Rivers-Marie. This is like 1er Cru Chablis in terms of style and I loved it. Notes of white peach, citrus peel, oyster shells, sea salt, fennel and crushed stones. The palate showed great energy, tension and minerality along with a core of white orchard fruit, wet rocks and sea salt. The mid-palate showed depth and concentration yet with a great freshness. The finish was saline textured driven.
Sources exclusively from the Larkmead vineyard. This shows the wonderful style of Calistoga and Larkmead, with notes of warm blackberry pie, blackcurrant coulis, cassis, black pepper and pastry notes. The palate is full bodied, lush with warm dark fruit, dark chocolate with a rich and velvety mid-palate and a medium layered finish.
Aromas are very floral with notes of violets, crushed lavender, black tea and dried flowers. The palate is medium+ bodied, slightly more firm tannins along with a firm backbone of dark red fruit, fig black pepper and star anise. Long earthy finish.
Aromas of bright red cherry, black tea, clay, bramble and a touch of graphite. The palate is medium+ bodied , light and elegant with sexy red berry fruit, pomegranate, savoury undertone, forest floor and orange peel, the mid-palate is luxurious and gourmet, finishing long and lingering.
Compared to the other 2 Pinot Noirs tasted this was certainly more on the delicate and lighter side of the spectrum with notes of black tea, pomegranate, bright red fruit and a slight earthy undertone, this finished with a light touch.
Blackcurrant, cassis, blackcurrant, graphite, anise and black pepper waft out the glass. The palate is full bodied with restrained dark lush fruit, baking spices, refined elegant tannins which lead to a velvety mid-palate and a long structured finish.
Flight 10 - Favia - Old School Napa (5 notes)
This is Old School Napa. the Favia Coombsville was one of the top 3 wines I tasted whilst in Napa, so refined and elegant yet with real energy. This is Andy Erickson at his best.
Cerro Sur("South Hill") 2019 - 73% Cabernet Franc(Rancho Chimiles - Wooden Valley - 1500 ft) and 27% Cabernet Sauvignon shows a wonderful aromatic profile of dark violets, crushed roses, dark red cherries, blackcurrant, black tea, liquorice, bay leaves and spice. The palate is medium+ bodied and is refined and elegant, nearly silky in texture with bright red fruit, maraschino cherries, anise and fresh herbs initially hit the palate, the tannins are silky with a slightly crushed rocky texture on the mid-palate, with a velvety persistent mouth feel which leads to a long lingering finish. 97-98
La Magdalena is a blend of 62% Cabernet Franc and 38% Cabernet Sauvignon from Oakville Ranch. This shows dark blackcurrant, blackberry and cassis along with dark crushed aromatics of violets, anise and all spice finishing with a black tea note. The palate is more muscular and energetic versus the Cerro Sur, with dark brooding fruit, liquorice and Indian spices filling the mid-palate, there is real energy and persistence throughout, layered and deep with crushed gravel sensation on the mid-palate, this leads to a long slightly rich finish. 97++
One of the wines of the trip which included tasting 200 or so Napa Cabernets. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Coombsville. Aromas are very aromatic and included multiple layers of crushed florals, dark berries, cassis, sandalwood, graphite, unsmoked tobacco and dark chocolate. The plate was full bodied, intense yet wonderfully elegant and focused, displaying refined tannins along with dark berries channeling through the palate along with a mineral and earthy undertone mid-palate following waves of bitter chocolate, orange peel and sage along and a long savoury finish. With only a small taste it was difficult to capture the pure elegance and class of this wine. I have a couple of bottles in the cellar, and will purchase more in the coming weeks. I hope to save a couple of bottles for 20 years time, this is old school Napa!
100% Cabernet Sauvignon from Oakville Ranch, located just above Dalla Valle. Blackberries, crushed violets, cassis, blackcurrants, dark chocolate and savoury spices waft from the nose. The palate is full bodied yet with a mineral brightness along with a succulent core of dark red fruit, dried herbs, polished tannins along with a juicy mid-palate, layered and spicy, this finishes long and savoury.
The Cerro Sur was 72% Cabernet Franc and 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, showed notes of cassis, developing dark fruit, fig, violets, pencil shavings, unsmoked tobacco and crushed stones. The palate was medium+ bodied with developing dark red fruit, mocha and crushed florals that showed both power and grace leading to a silky mid-palate of firm yet fine tannins, finishing long. A real success of the vintage and one of my highlights on this Californian trip!
Flight 11 - Mixed Flight (5 notes)
The below are wines tasted throughout the week which I wanted to highlight. Shout out to L'Envolee, tiny 2 barrel project which sources from Tench.
Closing
Tasting 200 wines over a week is a challenge. Most I was not able to make meaningful notes on. I suppose looking back I would say my highlights include:
- Favia
- Spottswoode
- Rudd
- Morlet
- Dalla Valle
- Dana Estates
- Rivers Marie
Disappointments:
- Vinous - AG needs to re-taste those 2020s
- Harlan
- Dominus