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Small supper at Noizé
Noizé, London
Tasted April 27, 2023 by Vinumming & Ahhing with 92 views
Introduction
We were brilliantly marshaled by Dave Dryoff who was visiting from the US and enjoyed a fabulous meal at Noizé where the team were as attentive as ever.
Flight 1 - Gougeres and Crispy Pork Belly (1 note)
White - Sparkling
2015 Lancelot-Pienne Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Marie Lancelot
Complex and beguiling nose shows green apple, a little quince jelly, some popcorn and with some air, a touch of acacia flower. Very classy stuff. Palate is long, with mouth puckering acidity and great focus. Chalky and yummy.
Flight 2 - Cured Bass, Asparagus Bavarois, Lychee Jelly, Fresh Peas (1 note)
White
2013 Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre
Match stick and undiluted Rose's lime cordial on pouring, this is a fabulous wine. The smoky reduction takes some time to clear - half an hour in a decanter would have helped the process methinks! As one of my co diners correctly marks real glycerol character to the nose too. Palate has glorious structure, a very subtle pepperiness and a lime blossom (Linden/Tilleul) character. Lovely
Flight 3 - Beef Ragout, Al Dente Spaghetti (2 notes)
Red
1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Rich nose with hints of aniseed and a little beefiness, just the faintest line of brett on pouring which is absolutely appropriate. There is little grapefruit juice lift here too and just a pipette drop or two of age-derived balsamic. Palate is rich warming and long, hints of leather and maybe a hint of cinnamon. Good acidity.
Red
1993 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Small pour, kindly offered by the restaurant. Cooler fruited than the 1990, morer on the red fruits too, some cranberry tartness. There is some freshly sliced mushroom and later a hint of steeped cherries. Absolutely the purest and least animale Beaucastel I can ever recall drinking! Palate is round, subtly spicy and long. Really like this.
Flight 4 - Roasted Duck Breast, Pearl Barley Ragout, Prune Purée (2 notes)
Red
1982 Château Duhart-Milon
Opened in place of a dull 1989 Leoville Barton. Due to slightly crossed wires this was essentially splash decanted and poured. Suspect this contributed to a younger feeling and less giving wine than previous bottles in the last year. It is still joyous. Dark fruited with cedar and pencil notes. Just a spot of star anise. Palate is rich and long, tannins fully resolved and this is so more-ish. Improves with every sip. 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc.
Red
1992 Ravenswood Pickberry
Fascinating wine and great for this Brit to try a Cali Bordeaux blend with some serious bottle age. This is 65% Merlot, 30% Cab Sauvignon and 5% Cab Franc. Very youthful colour on pouring almost Zin like. Nose has a blueberry compote character there are hints of mahogany dresser and later a slice of coffee and walnut sponge cake. Palate is a little slow out of the blocks by comparison but when it gets going has real breadth. Some plum compliments the blue fruits and a little high quality grated chocolate. A treat, thanks, Dave
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Comments (1)
Flight 5 - Ile Flottante (1 note)
White - Sweet/Dessert
1995 Alois Kracher TBA #7 Chardonnay Welschriesling Nouvelle Vague
Wow what a wine! Nose has tarte-tatin apple, caramel / toffee and pastry notes. There is a touch of marzipan too and later some passion fruit. Palate has both a searing acidity and a charming creme brûlée crust sweetness and slight char - absolutely perfectly balancing the sweetness and acidity. Texture is something else too mouth-coating. Amazing length too, I can taste this 60 seconds after swallowing.
Closing
A lovely and varied selection of wines, and fabulous company with banter moving between where the best barbecued pork can be found to cycling to how not to build a wine cellar!