Don't think I've tried this producer before, but I'm glad I have now - this was rather impressive. Elegant and linear nose, quite lean and green with hints of ginger, cucumber and aromatic tropical fruit, as well as layered with smoky reduction. Slatey on the palate, with bright acidity, especially towards the long finish. This wine smelled great and was exciting to drink, and made for a delightful aperitif.

Less energy than the 2015 Othegraven, sure, but the alluring nose of this wine grabbed me instantly; first note was "wow - so creamy". With more sniffing there were plenty of interesting scents, such as Provencal herbs, rose, honey, papaya and Badedas (i.e. horse chestnut). Less interesting on the palate, which wasn't excessively sweet but did (as expected) come across as quite rounded, perhaps overly undemanding. Some found that off-putting, but I was happy bathing in the wine's perfume!

Not the best bottle of this (#3 from 6)... I see from prior notes that the deepish colour has been a common feature, but the other bottles were a lot more energetic. Quince and marmalade on the nose. Rather creamy and intense in the mouth, with good amplitude on the midpalate, but lacked acidity and had a burned lime note on the finish that reminded me of Sauternes more than I'd have liked. Not a bad wine, but the weakest Riesling we tried tonight.

Sleek and quite pretty nose, with pineapple, honeycomb and cream, then something earthier (and less attractive), reminiscent of vegetable soup. Slightly 'Auslese lite', with some apple juice character, although there was some nice acidity on the finish. I liked this wine but, as with the Donnhoff, it slightly lacked energy and I didn't get around to finishing the glass.

Rather sweet after the Kabs and Spats! Honeysuckle, sherbert, Turkish Delight on the nose, and sweet orange on the palate. Really appealing, and fanned out beautifully on the finish. A super match for the Tunworth cheese in the accompanying dish, which the other wines couldn't cope with.

Slightly (and, with air, increasingly) exotic nose with a touch of slatey reduction. Clean and linear and full of dry extract, with a grassy flavour and rather bitter, challenging finish. This classy wine slowly opened up in the glass and surely has a long life ahead; I'll try to leave my other bottle at least five years.

Of course, this wine was pure, lean and smoky - the S-F producer signature must be one of the most distinctive anywhere. Electric and persistent, with mouthwatering lime cordial flavour. A wonderful match for the fish dish (as was the other dry Riesling).

Made in a low-intervention style, whole-bunch, 9.5% ABV (!). Startlingly bright crimson. As bright and lean as you'd expect, with an 'interesting' nose that showed andouillette, All Bran and fresh Golden Virginia. Grippy and 'natty' on the palate, like grown-up cranberry juice. I shan't be buying a bottle, but I really enjoyed this.

Much fuller on the nose than the Trollinger, but crisp and crunchy on the palate, with a clean appetitising finish. That said, there was something disjionted and displeasing about this wine, as though it was closed down. I loved the 2016 when I tasted it in 2020, and see both Jancis Robinson and David Schildknecht have cast doubts on how this wine will age, so perhaps (even though it didn't taste at all 'old') it's best drunk in the flush of youth?

Gamey and obviously Pinot nose. Refreshing, lean and long on the palate, without a huge amount of fruit. Not flashy, but a proper, refreshing wine, and good with the food.

Half. A lovely amber colour. Deep and creamy on the nose, with some strawberry - no wonder it matched the dessert so well. Good fun on the palate, with a sour yoghurty flavour, almost chevre-like, married to intense, bracing, barely-ripe mango. Beautiful long finish, grippy and piquant with lime. I'm sure people have told me that Eiswein doesn't age well, but here's a strong counterexample.

Mid straw. Exotic, spicy nose - seamlessly aromatic. Ripe and impactful on the palate, with sweet citrus, excellent balance and a very long finish. Just lovely, but slightly overborne by the quirky Eiswein we drank alongside.

Half. Gorgeously lifted nose, like ambrosial sweet honey. Rather sweet on the palate, yet with bracing acidity - that sort of energy is much appreciated towards the end of a meal. Really pleasing.

Half. Super intense stone fruit on the nose, with a more exotic, tropical feel to the fruit on the palate. The wine managed a surprising balance between exhilaratingly high acidity and an easy elegance - again, wonderfully drinkable.