Perfumed nose - pine and blossom, something of a good-smelling kitchen cleaner about it- even if that sounds pejorative I thought it was really nice! Lemon and white peach, a toasty edge. Aromatically confident. By comparison the palate was quite polite, missing some zip and drive.

It's not my style but I've got a soft spot for this wine; the extravert, frantically gesticulating Tuscan Chard. Big, ripe and oaky with a rich, creamy and mealy texture on the palate. For all that, there is a sense of balance - a twist of oak bitterness and enough acidity tighten things up on a long finish. This may be one of the more restrained vintages of this I've tried (it's all relative) and to my palate, is all the better for it.

Even if I found visiting the estate a slightly soulless experience, I'm consistently impressed by Le Ripi's wines and this one is no exception. It's ugly-beautiful: grippy and oxidative but profoundly aromatic: herbal, spicy, nutty with a dried yellow fruit character- there's all sorts going on. A real grip on the palate and tight, bitter finish makes it a potentially compelling match for food. Very characterful.

Approached with trepidation because I've really disliked recent vintages but this was singing: uncomplicatedly delicious saturated red fruit with a sense of luxury alongside nuanced liquorice, tea, a stony minerality. There's vertical lift and energy, and this may be in an in-between phase - while it's deliciously primary with hints of development, the tannins are thick and grainy right now. Delicious but it'll improve.

Upright, clean and well-made but possibly lacking some personality. Dark red, blue fruit, the oak is still fresh and waiting to integrate with some prominent vanilla and spice notes. No heavyweight but has depth, concentration. It's Nice Wine - but also so what if there's no sense of place?

My contribution and, embarrassingly, totally f'ed. Doubly frustrating because a good bottle would have been a really interesting comparison to the Galatrona in the same flight.

Natty Brunello: who knew? In my view it works here, and reinforces my view that the 2012s are drinking really well right now. Some funk on opening, a touch of VA, and then a cacophony of aromas - inviting strawberry, cherry, mint, young fresh leather. Lively and clear. Spicy, velvety concentrated fruit on the palate with some grip and juicy acidity. Very nice.

Macerated dark cherry, raspberry liqueur, waves of violet. A baritone depth. Rich and delicious on the palate but the angularity and weight of tannin reminds you of its youth. Fresh, bright finish. Solid early preview of a wine that'll be really good in time.

Mild TCA - on the boundary of detection, but consensus was that it was there

Like London buses, I'd not tried this producer then three bottles come along within 24 hours. This wasn't hugely demonstrative in the glass: dusty, earthy strawberry with an umami anchovy note and a touch of VA. Still seems to be developing on the palate: some tannic bite, bright acidity and a sweet chewy texture. Maybe the most 'traditional' winemaking of the three vintages I've tried - more recent bottles seem more overtly natty.

Quiet and refined in comparison to some of the wines alongside which it was served, this rewarded closer inspection with a lifted, floral nose, coffee and dark cherry. Slightly chewy and developed on the palate, some of the primary deliciousness fading away. Probably more of a wine to drink through a whole bottle than compare sips at a tasting.

Delicious: nutty and oxidative nose with bright spice, dried apricot, yellow plum, heady and expansive. Luscious on the palate, sweet and smooth with wonderful acidity scything through the sugar and finishing fresh. Really good Vin Santo.