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Daniel's White Truffle Birthday Lunch

Otto Y Mezzo, Alexander House, Landmark, Central, Hong Kong

Tasted November 27, 2023 by Goldstone with 49 views

Introduction

A great excuse to indulge in avalanches of white truffle at the pinnacle of the season....and to celebrate Daniel's birthday

Flight 1 - Balik Salmon with Caviar (1 note)

This went really well wuth the Sir Winston

White - Sparkling
2002 Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill France, Champagne
94 points
No detailed notes as everyone was thirsty and it disappeared in no time. But this was stunningly good - fresh, lifted nose and a vinious, deeply satisfying palate. Lots of reverberance inside the head on a very long finish. So nice after a disappointingly sub-par bottle two weeks ago. To the extent that I may have over-scored it this occasion relative to the J Schramm that followed it. Thanks, Hans!

Flight 2 - Abalone Carpaccio withCaviar (1 note)

Another great Champagne pairing

White - Sparkling
2012 Schramsberg Vineyards J. Schram USA, California, North Coast
93 points
Brief mousse. Very subdued bubbles even with swirling. Light gold colour. Nose is really gorgeous and inviting… immediately very elegant and understated lightly toasted wheat bread, nice salinity, whisps of ozone and oyster shell. Palate has a lovely immediate tension, a lovely single violin string high note, gorgeous chalkiness , dry, very refreshing and more-ish. Excellent tensioned structure. Nice long buzz on the finale and light- toned church bells ring inside the head. Thanks, Olivier! 93+
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Flight 3 - Poached Egg with White Truffle & Brittany Blue Lobster with Mushrooms (1 note)

Despite, or maybe because of, their simplicity both these dishes got pretty close to justifying Otto's Michelin*** rating. The crispness of the wine complemented them really well.

White
2002 Domaine de la Vougeraie Vougeot 1er Cru Clos Blanc de Vougeot France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vougeot 1er Cru
92 points
From Magnum. Very light yellow gold colour still quite jewelled. Nose is subtle lemon balm and fresh yellow meadow flowers and white fresh clover. Hint of white marshmallow. Subtle. Palate is very feminine understatement with a ‘greenish-ness’ except in yellow terms. Surprisingly tannic. But very enjoyable. Still surprisingly young and unevolved. Quite resonant . Come back in 5+ years. Thanks, Jeremy! 92+

Flight 4 - Fresh Pasta with White Truffle (1 note)

This was a mountain of white truffle, which is always best with a very simple dish. The pasta was exquisite.

Red
1979 Château Calon-Ségur France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
89 points
Semi- transparent bright ruby stone with a small transparent meniscus. Nose is an immediate WOW! big blast of rich, ripe red fruit with a typical St Estephe smokiness and minerality. Palate is quite green and tannic and let’s down the nose big time. 92 for the nose but 87 or less for the palate. Quite stunted on the length at finale. But that nose....

Flight 5 - Two Types of Wagyu Done 3 Ways (1 note)

A variety of slow-cooked, braised and grilled

Red
1998 Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Cadettes France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
90 points
From magnum. Intense, deep purple-red, semi-opaque. Nose is is really powerful blast of boysenberry and confit raspberry with the slight feral scent of a baby wild pig…. older damp wild pig with time in the glass. Palate is tannic on entry but not overly so, just young. Green because of youth, exacerbated in magnum. Nice deep blackcurrant fruit already shows through but tannin is almost overwhelming afterwards. Heady and potentially headachey on the finale at this stage of its youth. 90 with potential for 93-95 in 10 years.

Flight 6 - Italian Cheeses (2 notes)

Red
2012 Rocca Barolo Barolo, Nat Chan version Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
88 points
Almost transparent jewelled ruby gemstone. Nose is seductive but slightly dilute rosewater with a back end of wild strawberry/raspberry seeds. Palate is tart and a bit dilute but possibly from lack of sufficient age. Come back in 3-5 years?
Red
2001 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
91 points
My contribution. Dark, brilliant jewelled semi-transparent ruby. Nose is immediately seductive but in an unexpected alpine cheese first note before some beautifully subtle alpine berries cut in. Wow, this really is unfolding into multiple layers very quickly. It would have been better with a 2-hour decant.. as it proved two hours after pouring...but the sommelier at Michelin*** Otto Y Mezzo overruled me (Lesson = trust your judgement over a sommelier). Palate is lightly jewelled red/black fruit but overbalanced by still too young tannin. Very promising resonance and reverberance on the finish and it improves but not enough to merit opening a bottle for another 5-8 years. 91 but will go to 94-95 at its apogee.

I would love to decant my next bottle for 5-8 hours.

Flight 7 - Cigar (1 note)

We went upstairs to a friend's restaurant terrace to digest over beautiful Cuban special edition cigars...and a consistently stupendous Porto that always compliments cigars.

Red - Fortified
1966 Quinta do Noval Porto Vintage Portugal, Douro, Porto
95 points
Drank sippingly over post-lunch cigars. Incredibly brightly jewelled totally transparent perfect ruby gemstone in colour. Nose is quiet because of no pre-decant but whispers of Christmas cake spices and a lovely deep almost but not quite confit red currant fruit. Palate is sharp-cutting fresh and light acidity that segues very quickly into a deep, rich and powerful resonance and reverberance inside the head on the very long finale. The palate sums up that this is still at a very young if harmonious stage of its life. Even better than when we drank it in a similar mode a year ago. Thanks again, Hans!

Closing

A long and super-enjoyable lunch that edged into early evening. Happy Birthday, Daniel!!

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