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Barolo vs Burgundy at about 20 years
Tasted January 21, 2024 by gilrbo with 79 views
Introduction
A classic theme for a tasting, but how can one get tired of this?
Flight 1 - The aperitif (1 note)
White - Sparkling
2009 Franck Pascal Champagne Quinte Essence
Drunk to open our tasting.
A champagne driven by acidity, with a hint of an oxidative note to add complexity. A bit austere, but very nice overall.
A champagne driven by acidity, with a hint of an oxidative note to add complexity. A bit austere, but very nice overall.
Flight 2 - GC Burgundy 2002 (2 notes)
The Lutzmannsburg was the pirate of the tasting and it didn't take long before a taster pointed out that this was not a Pinot Noir, despite me saying that we had two GC of 2002.
Red
2002 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche
Opened in the morning, about four hours before the tasting.
Stunning nose, still with fruit, but also herbal notes and the complexity which comes with maturity. Palate at the same level, fresh, lively, complex, with very fine tannins, but still present and punching, which give it interest. A wine that touches you deeply.
Stunning nose, still with fruit, but also herbal notes and the complexity which comes with maturity. Palate at the same level, fresh, lively, complex, with very fine tannins, but still present and punching, which give it interest. A wine that touches you deeply.
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Comment
Red
2002 Moric Blaufränkisch Alte Reben Lutzmannsburg
Opened about four hours before the tasting.
Drunk next to a Grand Cru of the same vintage to test its ambition to play at that level. This was probably unfair, since the grape does not have a similar texture. This had more substance to chew on and could not compare to the elegance and playfulness of a top GC. But still, showing very well at 21+ years of age, now probably at maturity, with leathery, spicy and earthy notes emerging.
Retasted two evenings later, on its own, it showed still very strong. Yes, the comparison is unfair.
Drunk next to a Grand Cru of the same vintage to test its ambition to play at that level. This was probably unfair, since the grape does not have a similar texture. This had more substance to chew on and could not compare to the elegance and playfulness of a top GC. But still, showing very well at 21+ years of age, now probably at maturity, with leathery, spicy and earthy notes emerging.
Retasted two evenings later, on its own, it showed still very strong. Yes, the comparison is unfair.
Flight 3 - The transition from Burgundy to Barolo (2 notes)
For the transition I put together an austere Burgundy and a more feminine, elegant Barolo, and I think it worked.
Red
2001 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Clos du Roi
Opened about four hours before the tasting.
Retasted the evening after.
Wonderful complexity on the nose, with still vivid cherries but so much more. The palate is balanced but somewhat austere, with tannins which are still biting. Even though the acidity is there, it does not manage to give it a sense of liveliness and playfulness - yes, it is an austere wine.
I enjoyed it a lot, nonetheless, especially for its noble poise and was very happy that it showed much better than a note here indicated.
Retasted the evening after.
Wonderful complexity on the nose, with still vivid cherries but so much more. The palate is balanced but somewhat austere, with tannins which are still biting. Even though the acidity is there, it does not manage to give it a sense of liveliness and playfulness - yes, it is an austere wine.
I enjoyed it a lot, nonetheless, especially for its noble poise and was very happy that it showed much better than a note here indicated.
Red
2001 Lorenzo Accomasso Barolo Vigneto Rocchette
Opened four hours before the tasting.
Drunk next to the Corton Clos du Roi of the same vintage.
The nose was classic Barolo, and unmistakable even though tasted blind. Still fresh and young. The palate was more charming and lively than the Corton, but the tannins somewhat more rustic. A great showing and no signs of fading.
Drunk next to the Corton Clos du Roi of the same vintage.
The nose was classic Barolo, and unmistakable even though tasted blind. Still fresh and young. The palate was more charming and lively than the Corton, but the tannins somewhat more rustic. A great showing and no signs of fading.
Flight 4 - Barolo 2001-02 (2 notes)
For most tasters this was blind and nobody expected a Barolo from the terrible 2002 vintage, even less a Monfortino. Did it stand out? In a way, yes, but was not necessarily the one everyone preferred.
Red
2001 Fratelli Brovia Barolo Ca'mia
Opened about four hours before the tasting.
Blind next to the Monfortino 2002. This showed more classic and in a way more true to its nature. The Serralunga character showed through a more powerful and structured wine than the Accomasso, but compared to the Monfortino this had less complexity and probably potential for further development. I liked its elegance.
Blind next to the Monfortino 2002. This showed more classic and in a way more true to its nature. The Serralunga character showed through a more powerful and structured wine than the Accomasso, but compared to the Monfortino this had less complexity and probably potential for further development. I liked its elegance.
Red
2002 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Riserva Monfortino
Opened about four hours before the tasting. Retasted the evening after.
The nose showed quite some exotic, spicy aromas, on top of the classic nebbiolo ones. Some fellow tasters mentioned vanilla, which I didn't get on the tasting, but perceived very clearly the evening after. We had quite some discussion whether this could have come from new wood, which I could not believe. Anyway, the palate was beautiful, rich, with a lot of substance, but very well balanced, and with the structure and power you expect from Serralunga and Monfortino in particular. Didn't show any sign of fading even on the second evening, and has the potential to develop even further.
The nose showed quite some exotic, spicy aromas, on top of the classic nebbiolo ones. Some fellow tasters mentioned vanilla, which I didn't get on the tasting, but perceived very clearly the evening after. We had quite some discussion whether this could have come from new wood, which I could not believe. Anyway, the palate was beautiful, rich, with a lot of substance, but very well balanced, and with the structure and power you expect from Serralunga and Monfortino in particular. Didn't show any sign of fading even on the second evening, and has the potential to develop even further.
Flight 5 - A white Burgundy of the same age to close the tasting. (1 note)
Following the Burgundian tradition we closed the tasting with a white wine, and what a showing this made!
White
2002 Domaine Chandon de Briailles Corton-Charlemagne
Tasted blind at the end of the tasting as final refreshment after so many powerful reds. Wonderful combination of sweet spices and citrus fruit on the nose. The palate is well structured and firm, very mineral and with all the necessary acidity.
This has still many years to go. I loved it.
This has still many years to go. I loved it.
Closing
The conditions for a wonderful tasting were all there and the wines did not disappoint.