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Mixed Italians
Terra Rossa, N1
Tasted February 16, 2024 by Joshvoulters with 73 views
Introduction
A loose theme of 'Italian' at the ever-reliable Terra Rossa with a fun group, and we managed to cover the whole country pretty effectively. A few genuinely interesting bottles, enjoyable breadth and variety.
Flight 1 - Whites (4 notes)
White
2020 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis
87 points
Hazelnut, freshly churned butter, ripe lemon and balmy white peach. Some spritz on the palate - round and snub-nosed as typical for the variety. Not much acidity and a satisfying bitter tightness on the finish
White
2021 La Staffa Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore
87 points
Herbal and nutty, a prominent, full-bore nose with lemon and a hint of orange. Tart and fresh on the palate, light in body with sharp acidity. Clean with a fleeting finish.
White
2012 Pieropan Soave Classico La Rocca
90 points
Nutty, woody notes and just a hint of oxidation. Sweet coconut, vanilla, green mango, lemon, talc and TCP. It feels mature and there's lots of interest here. A touch chewy on the palate, quite dry with a hint of bitterness on the finish. I tend to prefer Calvarino's more mineral and less ripe character overall, but it was really interesting to try this with some age.
White
2020 Inama Soave Classico I Palchi Grande Cuvee Foscarino
90 points
A lovely smoky depth: mineral, nutty and substantial nose. Peachy fruit on the nose and palate, some spice and structure. Would like to try this with some more age.
Flight 2 - 'Everything else' (3 notes)
Red
2019 Altura Rosso Saverio Isola del Giglio Toscana IGT
83 points
Honestly I'm not sure if this is good or bad - but I didn't particularly enjoy it despite the fact it's quite interesting. A field blend from Giglio off the Tuscan coast. Biodynamic, foot stomped, indigenous yeasts, no fining, filtration, minimal sulphur. Howling naked at the moon, etc.
A lot going on on the nose: cherry, prune, olive, porcini, burnt rosemary, iron and some richness alongside all those savoury umami notes. It evolved a lot with air - starting as something recognisably Sangiovese and, in my view, falling apart into disparate and not particularly appealing burnt and rubbery notes. I don't think the fruit will outlast the dense and spiky tannic profile on the palate, which is a bit much really.
A lot going on on the nose: cherry, prune, olive, porcini, burnt rosemary, iron and some richness alongside all those savoury umami notes. It evolved a lot with air - starting as something recognisably Sangiovese and, in my view, falling apart into disparate and not particularly appealing burnt and rubbery notes. I don't think the fruit will outlast the dense and spiky tannic profile on the palate, which is a bit much really.
Red
2007 Fattoria Galardi Terra di Lavoro
90 points
The nose is everything you hope for from a quality Aglianico: deep, rich and leathery with notes of dried tobacco, bonfire, tar and contained, concentrated dark fruit. It feels really young to me on the palate and the structure is quite intimidating, though I'm not sure this is ever going to be an inviting wine with smooth, resolved tannins.
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Comments (1)
Red
2009 Tommaso Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Tb Vigneto Alto
91 points
This was a really interesting- and comforting - counterpoint to a weird Tuscan field blend and a smoky, volcanic Aglianico in the same flight. Rose, rich cherry and macerated strawberry, mocha: there's a freshness alongside the richness and while it's luxurious on the palate with an appealing red-fruited sweetness, it's also got some structure. The 16.5% alcohol totally disappears.
Flight 3 - Alto Piemonte (2 notes)
Red
2010 Antonio Vallana e Figlio Boca
89 points
Sweet strawberry, beef stock, iron, herbs, truffle and some floral lift. A touch rubbery. Red fruit, lots of grip but also juiciness on the palate. Quite lean overall
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Comment
Red
2013 Az. Agricola La Palazzina Bramaterra
90 points
Quite a mature nose: savoury depth, pot pour, sun dried tomato, dark fruit, charred meat and spice. Overall a dark and meaty impression with this beautiful floral undertone. The palate is quite tough- iI found it wasn't hugely flavoursome and relatively dry, and it felt like it really needs a bit of time
Flight 4 - Barbaresco (2 notes)
Red
2014 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Riserva Asili
90 points
Autumnal, rose and wet leaves with sweet meaty notes. Really quite resolved on the palate: sweet red fruit, perfumed floral notes. Not enormously concentrated but very pleasant - smooth, balanced and fresh. In a good place.
Red
2017 Musso Barbaresco Pora
89 points
Quite high-toned, a touch volatile perhaps. Dark red fruit, violet, rose and beef stock. Quite compact and not hugely expressive - slightly clenched and may be in a bit of a dumb phase.
Flight 5 - Barolo (2 notes)
Red
2016 G.D. Vajra Barolo Coste di Rose
92 points
Floral, vegetal, lifted - quite pungent (in a good way!). Really lovely. I'm told it's geranium I'm smelling - there's also spice, red fruit and a hint of tar. Young, with wonderful concentration and clarity: with food it's beautiful now, surprisingly accessible, but realistically a few years will do this a world of good.
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Comment
Red
2004 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero
92 points
This wine has such a distinctive character- that slightly synthetic hard candy strawberry jumps out of the glass, along with cherry and blackcurrant, spice, soy, sandalwood and a satisfying hint of brett. Round on the palate with some sweetness and nice silky concentration. Fine, fine tannins build to provide grip and structure. At a good stage of its evolution