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Burgundy Finale
Wine Exchange - Orange, CA
Tasted November 29, 2008 by Badfish with 868 views
Introduction
This was not a cheap tasting but I think everyone knows that 2005 Burgundies are not cheap wines. Needless to say the Winex tastings always offer tremendous value and this was no different. There were several wines from both the Côte de Beaune and the Côte de Nuits as well as a nice selection of whites from different vintages. I was mainly looking forward to the reds from Côte de Nuits but the Volnays and the Pommard looked to be interesting selections.
Flight 1 - Les Blancs (5 notes)
White
2007 Domaine Dupont-Fahn Bourgogne Blanc Chaumes des Perrières
92 points
This wine is very expressive and pungent on the nose with lemon oil and crushed stones. The palate is gorgeously fresh with bracing acidity and flavors of citrus, under ripe melon, and minerals combining for great persistence on the finish. I was told this wine comes from a vineyard in the middle of Meursault that had been declassified because the owner brought in soil at some point. I certainly can believe that because this is quite good for the price.
White
2006 Domaine Robert-Denogent Pouilly-Fuissé La Croix Vieilles Vignes
89 points
Quite reticent at first but with coaxing it reveals aromas of melon, tropical fruits, and some vegetables. Quite concentrated and explosive on the palate with ripe fruit but it comes across as somewhat abrasive on the palate. I am not really sure what is going on with this wine as it seems slightly overdone and even alcoholic but maybe it is just in a weird phase. 89?
White
2006 Domaine Servin Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
91 points
The aromas are attractive and soft on this one with notes of melon, citrus, honey, and minerals. I find the palate to be more mineral than fruit driven with bracing structure and elegant stoney character. The fruit may very well be hiding at this stage for this wine but it is very refreshing. I believe this was aged only in stainless steel.
White
2005 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre
92 points
This is quite stalky on the nose with aromas of melon and citrus, very similar to the Servin but with more power. The palate is high toned, refreshing, and lean but maintains good concentration with flavors of citrus and minerals leading to a more honeyed mineral laced finish. Slightly more interesting than the Servin, I imagine the 50% oak makes it somewhat more approachable at this stage.
White
2006 Anglada Deleger Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Blanchots Dessus
94 points
In my opinion this has by far the most interesting, unique, and complex nose of the whites with notes of lemon oil, stones, cinnamon, and pumpkin. The mouthfeel is quite moving with an amazing glossy tone leading into flavors of crushed citrus, pumpkin, and minerals through the long finish. With tons of stuffing and ripe fruit this may seem modern to some but it is unquestionably Burgundian with minerality throughout and the acidity to match the explosive components.
Flight 2 - Côte de Beaune (7 notes)
Red
2005 Domaine Matrot Monthélie
89 points
Soft red in color with pleasant aromas of cherry and raspberry. The sweet red notes carry over to the attractive palate which has bright fruit character coming across like sour candy. There is not a lot of fruit character but it is attractive enough and I think it demands food. Quite the oddity, this wine has 20% pinot beurot in the blend.
Red
2005 Blain-Gagnard Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Rouge
92 points
Offering an orange toned red color in the glass this wine has a wonderful nose of spices, cherry, and red berries. The flavors come across as more earthy and stoney in character which presents gorgeous interaction with the red fruit. Very seductively toned and quite perfumed on the finish this wine has great personality. You don’t see a ton of reds from this appellation but I am very interested in exploring them further.
Red
2005 Domaine Michel Gay et Fils Beaune 1er Cru Grèves
90 points
Very pungent on the nose with aromas of red fruits and earth in a slightly candied tone. High toned and somewhat abrasive on the palate with flavors of sour cherry, stones, and wood. This seems quite lean and closed but it does mellow on the finish. Give this a lot of time. 90+
Red
2005 Nicolas Potel Beaune 1er Cru Grèves
92 points
Deep garnet core in the glass with notes of red fruits such as raspberry along with spices on the nose. The red fruit and intriguing spice tone carry over to the palate which shows great structure. The long finish is somewhat candied but undeniably seductive. This is more open than the Michel Gay but there are definite similarities in the structure between the two.
Red
2005 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Vendanges Sélectionnées
93 points
Dark red core in the glass with an expansive brooding nose offering black cherry, boysenberry, and slate. The menacing tone carries over to the palate which shows dark fruit and ample concentration. I think the old vines really show in this wine as the fruit material is quite apparent in the structure and persistence. Quite massive and dark compared to some of the wines but extremely promising. 93+
Red
2005 Domaine Jacques Prieur Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Santenots
93 points
Dark purple red core with a mysterious and explosive nose consisting of dark berries, earth, and licorice. The palate is more elegant with great interplay between the red/black fruits, minerals, and acidity. This is obviously quite structured but the elegant mouthfeel makes this wonderfully approachable and succulent.
Red
2005 J.M. Boillot Pommard 1er Cru Les Jarollières
94 points
Deep garnet in the glass with black berries, black cherry, and wet earth. The dark tones spill over onto the palate which offers powerful fruit and mineral concentration along with some herb undertones. The balance and structure in this wine is simply gorgeous. Utterly unique and superbly crafted.
Flight 3 - Côte de Nuits (7 notes)
Red
2005 Maison Bertrand Ambroise Nuits St. Georges Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
92 points
This is very spice and earth driven on the nose with underlying aromas of red fruits such as cherry. Bright red fruit on the palate along with a nice herbal expression and sweet cherry on the finish. I don’t think this wine is showing everything right now but the stuffing is obviously there.
Red
2005 Georges Lignier et Fils Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos des Ormes
93 points
Soft red core in the glass with a drop dead gorgeous nose that is quite perfumed and floral. The aromas consist of red berries such as strawberry and violets; utterly unique and complex. This is quite explosive on the palate with plenty of red fruits and earth along with nice herbal tinge and impressive length. The mouthfeel is somewhat abrasive and acidic at this point but I attribute that to the impressive structure. 93+
Red
2005 Chauvenet-Chopin Chambolle-Musigny
94 points
This is quite deep, dark, and red with the most unique and compelling nose of the tasting. The brooding aromas explode out of the glass with notes of rubber, spices, slate, black currant, and dark berries; quite haunting. The palate is also very impressive with fresh crushed berry notes and ample tannin structure. I am very impressed with the complexity already showing in this wine and I think it has endless potential. 94+
Red
2006 Frederic Esmonin Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Estournelles-St.-Jacques
91 points
Dark red purple in the glass with aromas of dark berries, black cherry, and baking spices. There is fresh red fruit on the palate along with some spice undertones. This wine comes across as quite lean, especially on the finish, so I think it is closing down. 91+?
Red
2005 Domaine Taupenot-Merme Gevrey-Chambertin
92 points
Red purple core with a high-toned nose which shows cherry candy, minerals, and earth. The red fruit is quite attractive on the palate which also shows plenty of acid and structure. The stuffing is obvious but this is one of the handful of wines that seemed to be in a closed phase.
Red
2005 Domaine Joseph Roty Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champs-Chenys
93 points
Soft red core in the glass with fresh complex aromas of flowers, cherry, raspberry, and forest floor. The fruit is quite concentrated with red berry tones along with hints of spices and stones. The fresh acidity combining with solid structure point to a long life and loads of future potential for this one. 93+
Red
2005 Camille Giroud Charmes-Chambertin
94 points
This shows a deep yet soft red core in the glass with somewhat reticent aromas of perfume, red berries, and minerals. The palate is more open with intriguing perfumed floral flavors combining with the essence of crushed slate leading into sweet cherry on the long finish. This wine easily has the most unique and compelling flavors of the tasting. Closing down but still amazing and offering unlimited potential. 94+
Closing
I have to say I was quite surprised with the depth of quality shown in this tasting. None of the wines were duds and although some were closed or closing down they were all delicious. The stars for me were the Chauvenet-Chopin, Camille Giroud, J.M. Boillot, and Anglada Deleger. It is hard to pick values from this selection but I would say the Dupont-Fahn and Blain-Gagnard offer the best values out of the moderately priced wines. The Anglada Deleger, Georges Lignier, and Chauvenet-Chopin seem to offer the best values in the mid to high end. I would not hesitate to cellar several of these wines and I only expect them to get better.