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French Bakery BYO GLOBAL Bordeaux Blend Dinner - "The JUDGEMENT of Bay Harbor Islands"

The French Bakery 1023 Kane Concourse in Bay Harbor Islands

Tasted March 25, 2009 - March 26, 2009 by markellen.foodies@gmail.com with 1,162 views

Introduction

The attendants: Nick Abuabara; Carlos Deupi; Charlie Frumkin; Craig von Teuber; Brett Shofner; Jason Gilbert; Jerry Mc Ginley; Lionel Gallula & guest Gail; Mark Friedman(Me); Roberta & David Ehrenreich

Maria Frumkin's menu
Antipasto with assorted pate’s – Family style
Moulard Duck salad, sundried cranberries and pears
Roasted prime-rib, wild Mushrooms and potatoes Anna
Three cheeses: Asiago, Parmigiano and Gouda
Apricot tart, cardamom, honey-lavender sauce

RATINGS:
95 or BETTER: EXTRAORDINARY, one of the best of its or any class.
90-95: EXCELLENT, one would personally buy at retail.
89 or less: NORMALE, one would not buy for oneself.

Flight 1 - FLIGHT 1 (3 notes)

An inauspicious start. I confused my Aussie, which I like and RP dislikes(HATES?), with the Pauillac because of the vegetal notes on the Lynch Bages, which I thought I had tasted upon double decanting in the am.The two wines could be deemed to be a tie. THe 31 year old Malleret was clearly past its prime.

Red
1978 Château de Malleret France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Haut-Médoc
81 points
Carlos's wine. 1 1st of 10(Roberta). Ave 81. Jason- tired, old.Carlos-light brown; leather; Over the hill, tired, Old World.Nick (mailleret) - over the peak. Mark(me) - old, faded.Brett- Not much fruit, tired nose; old & French. Charly- nice but tired.
Individual scores: David-89.Jerry-90.Charly-89.Brett-75.Me-88.Nick-75.Jason-86.Carlos-80.Jason-86.
Red
1995 Mount Mary Cabernets Quintet Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
90 points
Mark's wine(Me).4 1sts of 10, avg 89.5. 1sts from David, Charly, Jerry, and Craig.Charly - Gorgeous/flowery, rose petals, coffee beans.David-Lingers.
Brett-balanced nose, past prime, dry.Me-slight brett.Jason correctly IDed as 95 Aussie- seems funky, tired.Carlos- very piink; dry; long finish, cranberry then caramel, not much fruit. Nick- very olive.
Individual.scores- David-93. Jerry-91. Charly-93. Brett-84.Me-90.Jason-87. Carlos-88.
Red
1988 Château Lynch-Bages France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
90 points
David's wine. 5 1sts of 10, avg 89.8.1sts from Nick, Jason, Carlos, Brett and Mark(me). Nick, BLIND correctly IDed it as Lynch Bages(BRAVO), said signature graphite on nose. From its Vegetal notes I mistook it for my Mount Mary(which was the middle wine in the flight).Carlos deep color; leather; alcoholic, young, light fruit. Brett- old French, got better after opening.
Charly - Good structure; a bit closed; firm tannins; too acidic.Jerry- Vegetal. David - closed.
Inidividual scores Jason-88, Me-91, Carlos-90, Craig favorite, unrated, Charly-90, Jerry-89David-91.

Flight 2 - SOUTH AFRICA SURPRISES & SHINES!!! (3 notes)

This flight demonstrates how the Globe is emulating, and perhaps eclipsing Bordeaux. When one thinks of the variability and inconsistency of weather in Bordeaux, visa vis South africa, South America, Italy, Australia, and California, it is not surprising.

Red
1988 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
90 points
David's wine Charly split 1st with Ernie Els. Avg 89.7. Charly (92) Elegant yet powerful and great structure. Currant, rhubarb notes. Carlos(91) Blood red, alcohol, barny, slight herbal note. Jason(90) thought it to be 1998, not 1988, Biordeaux.Brett(90) correctly IDed it as 88 Bordeaux. Nice classic Bordeaux taste & finish.Me(90) Balanced, tired(? can't read my own handwriting).Nick(84) correctly IDed as 88 Ducru.Jerry(91). David(his wine) thought it "New World"!
Red
2001 Viña Almaviva S.A. Almaviva Chile, Maipo Valley, Puente Alto
90 points
Craig's wine Came in 2nd in flight to 2000 Ernie Els, avg 90.2. 2nd in flight to the Ernie Els. Me(92) Rich, for Bordeaux. Charly(89) soft, fruity, easy to drink, lacks structure.Jason(89) thought it to be the South African Ernie els.Brett(93) also thought it to be the Ernie Els.Jerry(92). Nick(84) also thought it to be the Ernie Els.Carlos(93) saturated, elegant, long red fruit. What is most interesting that this delightful Chilean wine drank as what the group expected a South African wine to taste like.
Red
2000 Ernie Els South Africa, Coastal Region, Stellenbosch
93 points
Mark's wine(Me). 8-1/2 1sts of 10, avg 92.5. Everyone except Craig listed it on top, Charly split his vote with the Ducru Beaucaillou. Charly(92)- balanced, great acidity, deep crimson red color, approachable, fruit forward. Jason(91) thought it to be Ch Pavie. Brett(95) thought it to be cabarnet, and the Amalvia to be the Ernie Els. Jerry 95+, was blown away that it was South African, he hadn't had a good wine from South Africa.Nick low scorer,86, thought it was the 98 Ch de Sales, and he too thought the Amalviva to be the Ernie Els. Carlos(96+) deep purple, saturated, big bold; tannic; well rounded, good fruit, balanced, clean. David, Beautiful.
.Me(93) I had decanted the wine for an 1-1/2 hours in the am, when it didn't particularly standout. However it certainly did against its flight mates, and all of the evenings wines. Blind, I thought it to be an elegant 10+ year old claret with great legs. What, my mental image is of great Bordeaux. It outclassed its Bordeaux cousins, in typicity and quality A joint venture between Rust&Vrede and Ernie Els.2000 is the inaugural Vintage, when released, it was priced above its S African peers.Apparently justifiably so. Nick complained that current releases are too pricey at $90+. To me it is a bargain vis a vis the overhyped and Greatly overpriced Napa cults, and 1st & 2nd Growth Bordeaux, all of which are outrageously priced, and for the most part are no better, and perhaps lesser than this wine.

When we visited South Africa in 2002 we experienced excellent mature Claret styled wines,e.g. Meeerlust, Boehkenhatsloof, that were more Bordeaux than elsewhere on the Globe.
THIS WINE SHOULD CONTINUE TO IMPROVE and EVOLVE EFFORTLESSLY FOR MANY Years.

Flight 3 - 3 WAY TIE- MERCI CRAIG, GRAZIE GAIA(via JERRY)/and JERRY (3 notes)

This was truly a split close flight, 3 tasters ranked the Italian wines equally, Carlos, David and Jerry. Jason, Nick, Brett, and Craig had a clear preference for the Ducru. While Roberta and I liked the Magari best, and Charly and Lionel preferred the Sportoletti.

Red
1997 Château Lynch-Bages France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
92 points
David's wine. 4 of 11 1sts.Avg 91.6. Brett(91)-would buy again. Old World French Bordeaux. Jason(92).Nick(94). Carlos(93)-Old Bordeaux; alcohol; tannic long finish.Jerry(93).David(90).Charly(91). Mark(me90) Bordeaux, nice, improved in glass.Lionel(90).
Red
2000 Ca' Marcanda (Gaja) Magari Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
91 points
Jerry's last minute surprise addition. 3-1/2 1sts of 11.Avg 91.3 Lowered by Brett's(82) thought Bad Italian finish. Mark(me96)- I loved it,and thought it either the Insignia or Italian. There seemed some sweet prune to the wine. Was pleased to see it was Gaja, as Jason and I had the pleasure of the 04 vintage with the charming and extremely knowledgeable Gaia Gaja @ Por Fin, Coral Gables the previous Friday.Jerry(93). Nick(90).David(92)-thought it might be California. Carlos(96)- Deeper color, tannic, red fruit, well balanced. Jason(89). Lionel(91).
Red
2001 Sportoletti Umbria Rosso Villa Fidelia Italy, Umbria
91 points
Jerry wine. 3-1/2 1sts of 10.Avg 90.9. Charly(94). Lionel(92). Carlos(96)- Deepest color. well balanced, tannic as hell.Mark(me92)- Very good, but can't compare to #2, (the Gaja Magari). Brett(85)-Italian dry. (he must be a Victorian at heart). Jerry(93).Nick(88)-thought it was the Cinq Cepage. Jason(88).

Flight 4 - VENI, VIDI, VICI - TUSCANY REIGNS! WOTN***** (3 notes)

I BELIEVE WE WERE ALL BLOWN AWAY, WHEN IT WAS REVEALED, THAT IT WAS THE TUSCAN TUA RITA THAT AWED US ALL!!!

Red
1998 Château de Sales France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
90 points
Carlos' wine. No 1sts.Avg 90.4 Carlos(93)- Deep color, Italian(?), steely. Nick(89) IDed as Ch de Sales.Mark(me91)-Good but not=to other 2. Lionel(92).Jerry(90). Jason(89) Thought it the Tua Rita. Charly(90)-Light, game, leather, just a bit tight.
Red
2000 Tua Rita Giusto di Notri Toscana IGT Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
95 points
Jerry's wine. 9 1sts of 11.Avg 94.7!!! Nick(98!) Thought it might be the Insignia. Jerry(96).Carlos(95)-New World, deep color, anise, red fruit, long finish.Lionel(95).Charly(94)-Appealing apricot, nice acidity,tar and lead pencil. Mark(me94) - I too thought it must be the Insignia. Jason(94) also presumed it to be the Insignia.
Coming down to the last 6 wines we were all wowed by the Tua Rita Giusto di Notri, and many of us wrongly presumed it must be the Insignia. It and the Ernie Els were clearly the WOTN's, with perhaps the Tua Rita getting the edge.
Red
2000 Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon Cinq Cépages USA, California, Sonoma County
92 points
Jason's wine. 2 1sts of 11. Avg 91.8. Charly(97)- Powerful, yet refined; with remarkable elegance, and cassis cherry notes. Mark(me92). Good balance.Jason(92) new it was his cinq Cepage. Nick(87) thought it would be the Tua Rita. Jerry(93).Carlos(94)- Deep saturated color, sweet , well balanced.Lionel(93).
Scored well. Had the misfortune of being in the Tua Rita flight.

Flight 5 - NICK's 03 GRAVES CRU BOURGEOIS TRUMPS ITS EXALTED COMPETITION! (3 notes)

Red
2003 Vieux Château Gaubert Benjamin de Vieux Château Gaubert France, Bordeaux, Graves
93 points
Nick's last minute addition. 5 1sts of 9(Roberta and David passed on flight).Ave 93.4. Amazingly most of the tasters, including NICK, thought it to be the 99 Pavie(There were only 4 wine left including the 98 Insignia, and Lionel's Malescot St Exupery).Nick(98)-Pavie. Jason(94)-Pavie.Brett(93)- top pick.Jerry(92),Mark(me90).Lionel(93).Charlie(92).Carlos(96).
This 03 Cru Bourgeois($18-30retail), from an extemely hot year, showed much better than the heralded and expensive 99 Pavie, and the 98 Phelps Insignia, from one of California's wettest and weakest vintages.
Red
1998 Joseph Phelps Insignia USA, California, Napa Valley
92 points
Charlie's wine. Avg 92, a very high score, however at this late flight it appears criticism was missing. Charly(94).Lionel(96).Nick(90).Correctly IDed Insignia.Jason(93) - Insignia.Brett(92)-Insignia? Jerry(91).Mark(me89) Heavy, Insignia?Carlos(96) - effervescent.
It must be noted that the group preponderantly preferred the Cru Bourgeois 2003 Graves.
Red
1999 Château Pavie France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru
89 points
Lionel's wine.Avg 89.3Skewed by my 78 I didn't care for it at all. Carlos(97).Jerry(90).Lionel(94).Jason(89).Brett(89)- Bordeaux. Nick(89) thought his 03 Gaubert.WRONG!Charly(89).
As can be seen from the numeric ratings, and the knowlege of what the last flights wines were, the group presumed the better drinking 03 Gaubert to be the dissappointing 99 Pavie.

Flight 6 - THE LATE ARRIVAL - Drank, but missed the competition (1 note)

Red
2000 Château Malescot St. Exupéry France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
90 points
Lionel's wine. It was drunk alone, and after 15 wines was not reviewd by the group. I personally gave it a 90, and regretted it wasn't in a flight, as it would have shown well.

Flight 7 - MERCI/GRAZIE/THANK YOU LIONEL (1 note)

White - Sweet/Dessert
1989 Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Lionel's dessert wine.

Flight 8 - PETRUS - Santo Domingo/LIONEL'S FINALE (0 notes)

One of the finest smokes, I've savored in recent memory. Beats HABANA, and ASHTON VSG!!!

Closing

.As Lionel noted good wine has gone Global, as is evident by the outstanding Bordeaux blends we enjoyed from South Africa-Ernie Els and Italy-Tua Rita Giusto di Notri, where as noted above the better climactic conditions have led to consistently better wines. I am 68, and started dinking wine(CdP) 50 years ago(the legal age in NY then was 18). After my schooling and marriage we lived in NYC and moved to Westport, CT in 1970. I fondly remember the days when I would go to my local Wine Merchant- i.e. The Bloomingdale's Wine Store(NW corner of 3rd Avenue & 60th St, or Westport Liquors(next to Silver's) and buy wines ranging from Petreus and Gallo Hearty Burgundy to 1961 HAUT BRION BLANC(one of the 5 or 10 best wines I have ever had). In those days shops that specialized in wine all featured the Bordeaux 1st & 2nd Growths, and the 28 Wineries then existing in Napa, i.e Wente, Louis Martini, BV, Inglenook, Beringer, etc.
How the Wine World has changed: Robert Finnegan miscalled the 82 Bordeaux, and was demolished by Robert Parker and the nascent Wine Advocate. Buying Bordeaux futures became wise and fashionable. The Wineries, and Varietals in California have increased manyfold, leading to the current state of affairs where it is possible to produce Great Wines on almost every Continent, and where Global Warming is changing the nature of things.
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Thursday, APRIL 23rd,7pm- French Bakery BYO BARBARESCO Dinner - reprise of Barbaresco dinners 2 years ago, which were oversubscribed requiring 2 dinners on successive evenings.

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