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Wines From Barolo and Barbaresco
Barolo
Tasted September 18, 2009 by markjanes with 1,050 views
Introduction
Of all the major wine regions in the world, Piedmont has always been the one I have understood the least. I have never had any close wine friends who have collected or been Piedmont nuts and I had never been there to visit. Over the years I have had largely hit and miss experiences with the wines… though have never really put much effort into understanding them or the region. That changed back in early September. Armed a new copy of Wine Atlas of the Langhe (a book I highly recommend) off I was.
Flight 1 - 9/7/9 Lunch with Gaia Gaja in Barbaresco and dinner in Treisa at Tornavento (3 notes)
Had the Gaja with Gaia at lunch and decided to have a battle of the 2001's, La Morra vs. Monforte at Tornavento, formal but quite nice.
Red
2005 Gaja Barbaresco
88 points
Slightly lighter in color than the 2006 (very light color)… the fruits are more deep in flavor and style though still primarily red and very fresh in nature. The wine has a strong floral component and was lightly spiced with barrique oak. There is less of the strong “acidic,” transparent, fresh note to the fruit and the fruit is a bit more ripe. Less floral… on the palate much fuller than the 2006 though quite similar really… high acidity, less taut midpalate that is still moderately wide, a moderately tannic, of less firmness than the 2006, finish that is quite fine in nature. More approachable young than the 2006, softer and more gentle version. Give it 7 to 10 years. You can argue it’s overpriced, but I think it’s nearly impossible to argue this isn’t excellent Barbaresco.
Red
2001 Elio Altare Barolo Vigneto Arborina
95 points
2001 Elio Altare Arborina Barolo
Very aromatic with chalky, red cherry fruits. Very floral and slight hint of dusty herbs and mowed grass. Wine transforms into a very root beer, tar, and fennel thing before finishing the evening getting richer and rounder, more perfumed and earthy at the end. On the palate the wine is of medium + acidity, a very round and broad midpalate, a very smooth transition into a well integrated, very fine tannin finish of moderate power. Very balanced, good length, good intensity and complexity to spare. A wine of supreme finesse, great texture, and very true to its La Morra roots. Drinks well today, but will age 20+ years.
Very aromatic with chalky, red cherry fruits. Very floral and slight hint of dusty herbs and mowed grass. Wine transforms into a very root beer, tar, and fennel thing before finishing the evening getting richer and rounder, more perfumed and earthy at the end. On the palate the wine is of medium + acidity, a very round and broad midpalate, a very smooth transition into a well integrated, very fine tannin finish of moderate power. Very balanced, good length, good intensity and complexity to spare. A wine of supreme finesse, great texture, and very true to its La Morra roots. Drinks well today, but will age 20+ years.
Red
2001 Domenico Clerico Barolo Ciabot Mentin Ginestra
93 points
Less overt aromatics, darker fruits, more forest floor and dark, oak spice. Over the night never achieves the aromatic complexity of the Altare, but throws in some chocolate cake and tree bark aromas. On the palate pitchier with its acid, a tighter, less broad midpalate that transitions seamlessly into a more structured, but well integrated tannin finish. Very balanced, slightly less length than Altare, less complexity though still high, perhaps more intensity on the palate. A little less finesse than the Arborina though very nice and more masculine texture… very Monforte with its darkness, richness, and firmness. Drinks a little less than its potential today, will age 20++ years.
Flight 2 - 9/8/9 Dinner at Enoclub in Alba (2 notes)
Only day the wine didn't flow at lunch... Enoclub was a bit overrated.
Red
1999 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia
99 points
If the nose of this wine doesn’t mesmerize you, go see a neurologist and get an MRI. This wine is KILLER out of the gates with a mix of the most exotic spices you can imagine… red (and some dark) fruits that are < the intensity of the licorice and tar. Flowers, tobacco, sarsaparilla… all of this continues to develop over the evening into a tea shop. On the palate the wine is perfect frankly…a slow and beautiful upslope of firm acidity that transitions perfectly into a moderate to wide breadth in the midpalate that transitions effortlessly into a perfectly integrated, > 60 second finish. Other than wash your car and put your kids through school… what else is there in wine? In a good place today… will improve for 2-4 decades.
Red
1999 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia
93 points
This wine is way less opulent and makes you work harder to find its excellence than the Gran Bussia… starts off very tight and takes some coaxing to get the mossy, wet earth smells to begin to appear… tight cherry fruit then appears with various earthy smells such as the froth on the top of the must after it is pumped, winery floor smell, oysters, definitely some green and herbal notes arrive. On the palate a quicker accent with more noticeable acidity than the Gran Bussia, a tighter midpalate, a reasonably smooth transition into a definitely gritty, high tannin finish… good length. The wine was more expressive in the decanter, the fruit more pure and delineated. The wine has good balance, moderate length, fair intensity, plenty of complexity. The wine has finesse, a very fine texture that still has some rough spots to smooth out (time in the decanter helped). I would give this time. It drank well but never really opened up over the next 2 days.
Flight 3 - 9/9/9 Lunch in La Mora and dinner at Pio Boffa's house in Barbaresco (4 notes)
I must say I was slightly disappointed by the wines at Pio Cessare. Stylistically they try to be an in between style with some barrique aging and some cask aging. There is even a huge cement tank for use with Dolcetto and Barberas. I felt the wines lacked clarity and focus though to be fair I didn’t taste a wide range of their wines. Pio Boffa's hospitality was warm and generous.
Red
1999 Massolino Barolo Margheria
89 points
Deep, dark, rich and smoky with dark > red fruits. Plenty of barrique spice and richness emerge with time, as does tar and dark leather chair aromas. On the palate a nice and slow ascent with firm acidity that precedes a firm, fleshy, and user friendly midpalate of good breadth. A well balanced wine with good length and complexity and great intensity. Wine has good finesse and texture and expresses its origin quite well… certainly a friendlier style of Serralunga than some and certainly a very deep and richly flavored wine. Drinks well now or try again in 5-7 years.
White
2007 Pio Cesare Piemonte Chardonnay L'Altro
85 points
From magnum... light citrus and mild spice on the nose… decent minerality and a hint of oak spice… minimal diacetyls, no botrytis. On the palate firm acid, moderate weight… lacks strong depth of fruit or richness but has a pleasant finish. Balanced, moderate length, intensity… moderate – complexity. Good finesse, fine texture.
Red
2003 Pio Cesare Barbera d'Alba Fides
78 points
From magnum... smoky red fruits, oak barrique notes of spice. On the palate moderate acidity, tight, lacking in depth on the midpalate… tapers off pretty quickly to a low to moderate tannin finish. Slightly fat on the balance scale, shortsih length, adequate intensity, low complexity. Not a wine of great finesse or texture.
Red
2000 Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato
83 points
From magnum... on the nose earthy aromas dominate with tobacco, dried herbs, and spices. In the background is a slight mustiness that I wouldn’t call a fault but wouldn’t call an asset either. On the palate a nice ascent into a relatively full and plush midpalate. The wine transitions nicely into a fairly quick descent and well integrated tannin finish. Adequate balance and intensity, moderate – length and complexity. Ok finesse and texture… had higher expectations for this wine.
Flight 4 - 9/10/9 Lunch at Belvedere in La Mora and dinner at Lalibera in Alba (2 notes)
I would highly recommend both restaurants... Lalibera is a more modern take on the cuisine of Piedmont.
Red
1999 Domenico Clerico Barolo Percristina
95 points
Slight brown/orange tinge to rim. Moderate + depth of color. On the nose very aromatic with strong earth and spice notes (coffee, resinous pine, licorice, black olive) that exceeds the slight dark > red fruit component. After a while the tobacco notes (from new barrique aging) kick in and the wine starts to smell like an old mahogany leather chair. On the palate very firm ascent and a very tight and deep midpalate that transitions more smoothly into a very integrated fine grained tannin finish that lasts > 30 seconds. The wine tightens a bit over the meal and smoothes out a bit on the palate. Great balance, length, intensity and wonderful complexity. Great finesse, texture (the barrique use really makes the Monforte structure more open and accessible), and expression of its place… truly outstanding wine that is approachable now and will age for decades.
Red
1998 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Riserva Granbussia
92 points
Ok, so the wine is mortal after all. Versus the 99 this wine holds its cards closer to its vest. Less overtly and exotically spiced, darker fruits, very floral, slight touch of mint here. The wine opens up slightly over the night to show darker forest floor and mossy notes. On the palate very similar to the 99 with an amazingly graceful, but firm acidic ascent into a slightly tighter midpalate… seamless transition into a flawless and moderately long, well integrated tannin finish. Great balance, moderate + length and complexity, decent intensity. Great finesse and texture… very clear expression of place. Not in a great place tonight… I imagine this will show greatness during many periods of time over what will be decades of life.
Flight 5 - 9/11/9 Lunch at Borgo Antico and dinner at Bovio (3 notes)
Last night in Piedmont... both restaurants I would highly recommend as well... Borgo Antico was probably the best restaurant of the entire trip.
Red
2001 Paolo Scavino Barolo Cannubi
93 points
Moderate + depth of color, moderate extraction. Dark cherry fruits, very floral. With time comes dark forest floor notes, dried herbs, plenty of richness and barrique spice. On the palate a slow and steady ascent with firm acidity, a tight and firm, powerful midpalate. On the finish a seamless transition into a very smooth and well integrated, moderate + tannin finish. The wine has a 20-30 second finish. Great balance and intensity, good length and complexity. Nice finesse and excellent texture… drinking well now though again has plenty of capability to age.
Red
1998 Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis
93 points
Deep, dark, rich, and full of cigar spices (barrique use)… olives, coffee, smell of a dark and damp cellar… fruit sharpens with air time becoming very pure and focused maraschino cherry… wine opens more and becomes floral as the night progresses. On the palate quite pitchy with firm acidity… a tight midpalate that is quite deep, a slightly coarse start to a very long and high tannic finish that is quite long. Good balance and length, great intensity and complexity. A wine of finesse and immense power, still very young and aggressive texturally… the undrunk portion drank well for 4 days. Impressive.
Red
1998 Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio
95 points
More aromatic and open than the Sandrone (shows its La Morra side)… tobacco and cigar box spice (barrique in nature) with more feminine minty, light sweet herbal notes emerging with time. Less dark in its fruit profile than Sandrone… the wine becomes quite exotic and darker in its fruit profile with air time. On the palate a less pitchy, but equally firm in acid ascent into a broader, more lush midpalate that transitions seamlessly into what is a nearly perfect texture and long finish. Great balance, length, and complexity… good intensity. Fantastic finesse and a very fine texture. This also drank well for 4 days after the dinner.
Flight 6 - 9/12/9 Lunch at Trattoria la Posta outside Castiglione (1 note)
Again, highly recommended spot to dine.
Red
2004 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo
89 points
Very light in color and aromatic in nature with beautiful red fruits framed with spice and flowers. On the palate firm acidity leads to a slightly tight and narrow midpalate… a fine transition into a moderately tannic finish. The wine is really well done for a standard Barolo and manages to be elegant with just the right amount of power and structure for fruit of very good complexity and depth. Very nice and will age well over the next 4-6 years.
Flight 7 - 9/13/19 Dinner at Hotel Splendido in Portofino, Italy (1 note)
Even though the Barolo trip was over, couldn't resist staying on theme for an average dinner at one of the nicest hotels I have ever stayed at.
Red
1995 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero di Castiglione Falletto
97 points
Wow, aromatic complexity to spare… the wine is definitely less than ripe as there is a strong tobacco leaf element that stays with the wine all night. Very much like a Cornas… despite this the wine shows layer after layer of flavor consisting of all types of red cherry fruit, every light colored flower you can imagine, a spice rack of dried herbs and spices. On the palate a very gradual but firm acidic ascent that is just slightly pitchy… a firm midpalate and a seamless transition that moves into a very long (> 60 second) finish with perfectly integrated, barely ripe tannins. The wine has fantastic balance, length, and complexity… good intensity. There is finesse to spare and remarkable texture… not sure how “Barolo” this wine is as there is certainly a ripeness issue… but the wine sings aromatically and texturally.
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Flight 8 - 9/15/9 Dinner at Cinghiale, Baltimore, MD on my birthday... half price off all wines so stretched out my "Barolo Festival" one more day (3 notes)
Was great to be back home in the States... if I lived in this area I would be here every Wednesday for half off wines, their list is nice... food was very good as well.
Red
2001 Elio Altare Barolo Brunate
93 points
Darkest of the three in color. Super aromatic on the nose with loads of ripe, dark fruits (prunes and plums), exotic spices (some from barrique seemingly), licorice, tar, anise. On the palate very elegant and firmly acidic entry… very chalky tannins kick in early and are very pronounced… fleshy and broad midpalate that transitions seamlessly into a long, firm, and smooth finish (> 45 sec)… hints of olives at the end. Time sharpened the fruit and led to new spices. Great balance, length, intensity… very good complexity. Great finesse, very fine texture, and very good expression of place. Drinks well now or hold for 20+ years.
Red
2001 Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste
89 points
Lighter in color and revealing less aromatically than the Altare. On the nose intensely sour and stony red and black cherry fruit, and dried spices/herbal elements. Certainly less exotically spiced though some licorice and light florality emerge with time. On the palate slightly firmer acidic attack on the ascent, less broad and lush midpalate, firmly tannic without any chalkiness, integrated finish that is slightly shorter than the Altare and less mouthcoating in its tannin profile (less oak tannin). Balanced wine with good intensity, starting to show some complexity, adequate length. Certainly a wine with good finesse, firm, but fine texture. With time the wine opens a bit becoming more spiced. Needs time… let it rest 5 before trying again. Very traditional wine.
Red
2001 Giuseppe E Figlio Mascarello Barolo Villero
91 points
Talking about tight… certainly the least revealing aromatically of the three wines. Lightest color and extraction of the three, very pretty and transparent, very pure red cherry notes and pretty white flowers. Definitely some spice in there but the most feminine of the three aromatically. On the palate a very firm and slightly pitchy acidic ascent into a tight and powerful midpalate that has plenty of substance. A firm, but smooth transition into a very firm rather than chalky or grippy tannin finish that lasts for about 20-30 seconds. Very balanced wine though is on the firm side, adequate length and good intensity… not showing a lot of complexity now. Fantastic finesse and texture. Extremely traditional wine. If you are expecting this wine to be a fleshy and generous style of Barolo you will be sorely disappointed… it is from Castiglione (known for having very firm and tannic wines), is from the Villero vineyard (known for being more structured and firm than other Castiglione wines, is from one of the most traditional producers in Barolo (meaning a more tannic wine), and is from 2001 vintage (a vintage known to produce wines of very firm tannic structure)… the wine defines firmness in acidity and tannin on the palate. Hold for 5 to 10 before trying again, will age for decades.
Closing
It was a great experience… Piedmont is like Burgundy… a place where the importance of site seems to soar above other variables such as fermentation temperature and maceration techniques, a place where the wines aren’t easy to understand and you really have to taste texturally to appreciate and fully understand them. It was a fantastic trip and I’m sure I will return soon... the kind of place you could spend a lifetime trying to understand the nuances of the wines and sites.