2007 Waters Syrah Loess Vineyard

• By Stephen Tanzer
  November/December 2009, IWC Issue #147, (See more on Vinous...)

  (Waters Winery Syrah Loess Walla Walla Valley) Login and sign up and see review text.

Washington Wine Report

• By Sean Sullivan
  7/22/2010, (See more on Washington Wine Report...) **** points

  (Waters Winery Syrah Loess Vineyard Walla Walla Valley) A pretty nose with pepper, herbal tones, and savory spices accented by floral notes. Beautifully textured on the palate with red fruit, savory flavors, and a touch of smoked meat. 97% Syrah co-fermented with 3% Viognier. Aged in neutral French oak. 190 cases produced.

Garagiste

• By Jon Rimmerman
  3/18/2010, (See more on Garagiste...)

  (LOESS Waters Syrah) Waters Dear Friends, This is a very strong set of wines from Waters, one of our state's finest small production entities. With barely 1000 cases in total, all three of the examples below merit inspection from a curiosity, intellectual and pleasurable standpoint - something that cannot be said about the vast majority of domestic examples. Hardly distributed, this is what Garagiste is all about. Waters sets out to create nothing - they allow each vintage and each plot of land to express itself (even if that means tossing out the entire vintage - how many domestic wineries will take that risk?). The anti-commercial entity, they produce real wine derived with a hands-off approach that deserves to be tasted by those that claim the US is incapable of terroir reflection. What sets Waters apart is the ability to harness a specific northern expression of each vineyard site while still delivering wine that pushes numerous buttons on the pleasure scale (in a similar way to a vintage like 2009 in Cote Rotie). These are not acidic, lean examples (as would be my predilection), rather, all three ride a sliding scale of fruit density produced in an oxymoron fashion of "less is more" - they dance over the palate with restraint, perfume and elegance but are still relatively big wines that cover the taste buds and leave little room for escape. Yes, there is oak, but it is hardly a concern. Each is quite different from its neighbor, which is most apparent if tasted together. If you purchase to wine to drink, to explore and to learn without care for points or status, I urge you to experiment with all three of the Waters selections below - they are best enjoyed side-by-side over a long, drawn out evening (or over several days as they change immensely on day two with the Loess really gaining strength, whereas the Pepper Bridge initially seems to the strongest). I'm tempted to print the winery notes on each wine as they are uncanny in their accuracy (no sales marketing - their descriptions are spot-on) but I will add the links to save space. Once again, I would order based on the text in the following reviews and based on the text in the winery notes, not on the numerical scores. The points will certainly change if tasted next year and over the following 6-10 - I've added my comments as well: 2007 Waters "Forgotten Hills" Syrah (Walla Walla Valley) Winery tasting note link: http://waterswinery.com/wines/2007-forgotten_hills-syrah What can I say? This wine is immense but still beautifully directed - it overflows with a sense of place and sense of itself that is so absent in most domestic examples. The 2007 Forgotten Hills is a showcase for Washington State and how it differs from other domestic terroirs. Very pure Syrah that will be much admired for its impact and sensual attributes but also studied for its graceful expression of varietal and vintage: 2007 Waters "Loess" Syrah (Walla Walla Valley) Winery tasting note link: http://waterswinery.com/wines/2007-loess-syrah This is the "famous" Leonetti parcel grown on pure Loess (http://dictionary.die.net/loess), thus the name. My favorite of the three wines, the Loess is an individual expression that changes over many hours and days. It is unlike most in its class, unafraid to sacrifice a brooding quality in favor of whiffs and quips of the unexpected and unexplored. With excellent natural acidity that buffers the Syrah, here you taste the stone in the soil meshed with a northern climate and exemplary fruit. I've tasted this wine several times and each has been an engaging experience that unfolds over an entire evening - my guess is that the best lies 4-6 years ahead for the Loess (this wine is the most limited of the three, I believe only 150-190 cases were produced): 2007 Waters "Pepper Bridge" Syrah (Walla Walla Valley) Winery tasting note link: http://waterswinery.com/wines/2007_pepper_bridge_syrah The biggest and most in-your-face of the three wines (in a Waters way of course) this wine has a fair smattering of high-class wood wrapped around its grandiose fruit. The Pepper Bridge will please those looking for less eccentricity of the Loess and more intense, primary Syrah character that still drips a certain specificity - not just its cooperage. If more domestic Syrah had this level of intensity and harmony, more people would consume it: All three above are EXTREMELY LIMITED. Thank you, Jon Rimmerman Garagiste Seattle, WA WA5210 WA5220 WA5230