Delyap's Killer '99 Cabathon

Well a bunch of us gathered in response to a most generous invitiation from Delbert ("Delyap"). Delbert wanted to have a tasting and check in on some great 1999 California Cabs (and a couple that were mostly Cab) from his cellar. Present were: me, Delyap and his lovely date, Thomas (aka. "Tommy 'O"), Peter, Kirk, and Ray Signorello of the eponymous Napa winery. (Hmmm, I think I may have missed someone.)

Anyways, we started with two great Champagnes, then moved on to the '99s plus an '85 for contrast. And then we finished with 2 Ports and a Sauternes. Whew - nice night!

• 1988 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut 93 Points

  France, Champagne

  Toasty brioche nose. On the palate, tight and lemony with solid acidity. Steely, pure and clean - very bright. Smooth mousse with tiny bubbles and fine finish. Feels and looks (lighter color) much younger than the '85 Salon paired with it.

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• 1985 Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut 95 Points

  France, Champagne

  More evolved golden hue. On the nose, yeast, butterscotch, walnuts and sherry. Very complex and distinctive - maybe a love it or hate it thing (I loved it). On the palate, heavier and yeastier than the '88 Krug. Earthy with tons of minerals. Bread dough. A touch of funk and maybe some porcini mushroom woodsiness. Tart finish. Feels more mature and has more character at this juncture than does the '88 Krug.

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• 1999 BOND Matriarch 89 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Surmature nose with crushed dark fruits. On the palate, porty, very tannic, hyper-ripe. Some heat on the finish. Comes across as monolithic. I don't think this will evolve into anything much better.

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• 1999 Joseph Phelps Insignia 94 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Raspberry jam nose. On the palate, nice medium-weight wine. Clean Cab fruit plus apple skins, cherries and kirsch. Tannic and tight at first. Opened to reveal very nice structure under the fruit.

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• 1999 Chateau Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon The Montelena Estate

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  (I believe this was Kirk's contribution) Very closed nose that later showed bruised apples. Hard and ungiving on the palate. Fully closed all night. No judgement. Don't waste one by opening now.

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• 1999 Ridge Monte Bello 93 Points

  USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains

  Strong but elegant cedar nose. Lighter on the palate than on the nose. At first partially closed. After about an hour, started to open. Cassis, blackberries and a foresty taste. Lovely wine with a long life ahead. I think this wine is not for the wood averse, though.

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• 1999 Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon Cinq Cépages 86 Points

  USA, California, Sonoma County

  Totally lost in this company. On the nose, a trace of perfume and then green pepper. On the palate, the green pepper follows along with some tar and green tobacco. Herbaceous - was this under-ripe? Disjointed wine with a short finish. Tommy said this wine got better through the evening...it would have been hard to get much worse. (I should note that I've had the '96 and '97 of this on other occasions and quite enjoyed them.)

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• 1999 Shafer Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select 96 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Stags Leap District

  This was one of the big boys. Super ripe nose. Smooth entry on the palate. Classic cassis, black fruit and plums. Superfine tannins. On its own, an excellent wine - gorgeous. A notch below the '97 HSS. However, I must say that this wine did not really match any of the food through the whole night. A show pony only?

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• 1999 Signorello Estate Padrone 95 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  This wine was generously brought by Ray Signorello. I will say that we were all very cognizant of trying to be fair in drinking it and assessing it in front of Ray. I had this marked down at the outset as the nicest nose of any wine on the evening. This was affirmed as consensus in a later discussion with the group. The nose revealed perfectly ripe (not surmature) red fruit and a slightly floral aroma. The nose telgraphed the palate of perfectly ripened, cool, smooth Cab fruit. I noted a more European profile. Later, Ray affirmed his great interest in French and Italian wines and his desire to make a wine that goes well with food. On its own, the wine seemed medium-weight and had a hint of thinness in the mid-palate. With food (particularly the herb crusted duck breast, with which this wine paired to perfection) the wine seemed to flesh out in the mouth. Excellent.

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• 1999 Harlan Estate 97 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Another bruiser. The nose morphed a few times during the night. At first whiff, I thought this is a nose that could compete with the Padrone. Then later a note of latex paint emerged and detracted. Finally, this blew off and the nose turned sweet and confected. True nose - who knows? On entry, super smooth. Ultrafine tannins (even finer than the Shafer HSS) disintegrate into the structure of the wine. Ripe on the palate with mocha and brown sugar accenting cassis, cherry and blueberries. Despite its size, the wine was the best match of all these with medium rare lamb. If the nose is what I first encountered, then 97 pts. If the paint thing emerges, significantly less.

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• 1985 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Special Selection 94 Points

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Another generous contribution from Ray. Fully mature, gorgeous nose with a hint of funk. On the palate, candied red fruit and ripe bing cherries. There is also a lovely earthiness to this wine. Lovely mature Napa cabernet.

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• 1970 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage 97 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  My contribution on the evening. Great mature Port. Electric ruby color. Cherry cough syrup, baking spices (incl. cinnamon), and sweet mature fruit. Touch of spirit. Generally super - spicy and exciting.

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• 1976 Fonseca Porto Guimaraens Vintage 93 Points

  Portugal, Douro, Porto

  Opaque purple color! Quite a contrast to the '70 Taylor in appearance. Unbelievably young looking and tasting. Primary and a touch rustic yet. Brutally intense for a Port almost 20 years old. Needs more time.

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• 1983 Château Guiraud 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

  From Ray (a 375). First impression on the nose is styrofoam. Then honey and botrytis. Lovely and fully mature palate featuring lavander honey and pear liqueur. A nice Sauternes.

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Biggest disappointment: Montelena. In over its head: CSJ. Top wines: Harlan, Padrone, HSS, '70 Taylor. Best with food: Padrone.

Cheers,