Rocking out at Chez Leve with Hermitage and a whole lot more

Los Angeles, CA
Tasted Sunday, February 19, 2006 by Eric with 1,202 views

Introduction

This was our 'rest' night and fourth event in a progression of five. Instead it may have turned into our most raucous. Jeff did a bang-up job in the kitchen, and by the time everyone arrived a great mix of older tunes, blues and rock and jazz, was blaring away. People had a blast! The partners in crime included our host Jeff Leve, myself, Brad England, Claudio Lazo, Howard Horwitz, Al Stewart and Christopher Sliney. Unlike the other nights, all of my tasting notes were in my head, so these are largely quick impressions of a great and fun evening of food, wine and fun guys.

Flight 1 (6 Notes)

We started off with some nice munchies including: a big plate of prosciutto, shaved parmesan and arugula; assorted cheeses; and duck rillette. As everyone arrived we popped these single file and worked our way through an eclectic collection of great wines.

  • 2001 E. Guigal Ermitage Blanc Ex-Voto

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    We started off with this one. I expected a fairly rich, oily Marsanne/Roussane wine, but in fact this seemed much more like a Condrieu, very spicy on the nose but surprisingly delicate and precise on the palate. It was a nice wine, and as it warmed it did gain some of the oiliness and nuttiness I would expect. However, it never really wowed me and largely seems very overpriced for what it is.

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  • 1999 Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru

    Now this was a cruel and dangerous wine to taste next. The wine EXPLODED from the glass with the smell of crush gunflint and slate. The palate was a razor, precise and powerful, very cutting on initial taste. However, as you sipped it the wine filled your palate and showed enormous concentration and deceiving viscosity. For someone who doesn't collect white Burgundy, this was a haunting wine to taste. Truly mindblowing.

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  • 1955 Château Cos d'Estournel

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    This was Brad England's birthyear wine, so he tossed it in. Raging debate ensued as to whether this Nicolas Cellars wine was recorked. Either way, it was very nice with a textbook claret nose and a nice, round mouthful of tobacco. Somewhat simple, this is a very satisfying sipper.

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  • 1974 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve

    USA, California, Napa Valley

    This had a beautiful, pure nose of black currants and mint. Impeccable fill. Oh that mint, what a nice lift it gives to the wine. The palate is medium weight, beautiful, not showing loads of complexity after 32 years yet a joy to sip. Yet the purity and delineation was very fine with black fruit and good vibrancy on the palate.

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  • 1985 Château La Conseillante

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol

    This was a stunning bottle, as perfectly preserved as one could image, sultry with chocolate and smokey overtones. Drop dead sexy and everything that a solid right-bank wine should be. People were oohing and gooing over this one and deservedly so. Yummy!

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  • 1966 Château Latour Grand Vin

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Wow, what a hammer of a wine! On first pour it was black and forbidding and fairly stern on the palate. Some cedar and graphite sneaks out, but it's not giving much. I took my next sip 15 minutes later while chatting with Jeff in the kitchen, and I nearly dropped my glass. Wow and I mean WOW, this has just exploded into a huge, tannic monster of a wine, loaded with black fruit and graphite. Great bottle HH!

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Flight 2 (8 Notes)

After an hour we sent Leve to the kitchen to quickly finish off his culinary masterpieces: truffle mashed potoes; thick cut veal chops that were stuffed with foie gras, seared, roasted and finished off with a red wine and veal demi glace reduction. Awesome!

  • 1989 Marc Sorrel Hermitage Le Gréal Flawed

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Corked!

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  • 1990 Ferraton Père & Fils Hermitage Cuvée des Miaux

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Very light color, more like a Pinot. A nice but somewhat restrained nose with some pine and hints of smoky meat. The palate is clean with nice, pure notes of cherry and good acidity. Good overall but a bit underwhelming.

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  • 1989 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Here we go! Really classic nose, very well balanced, a joyous Hermitage that is still drinking young but already has a lot to offer. Lovely bottle, very powerful.

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  • 1990 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Oh yeah, NOW we are talking. When we first decanted this 6 hours earlier the nose on this was a bit swampy, but the longer it was open the more it improved. This was clearly the best bottle of this wine I have tasted in four tries now. A huge, explosive nose of tar and meat and blood just pours out of the glass. This is like motor oil with wave after wave of tar, sweet fruit, blood, roasted meat, enormously concentrated and complex, a baby, lush, generous, utterly fantastic!

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  • 1997 Tardieu-Laurent Côte-Rôtie

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    This had a tough act to follow after the powerhouse La Chapelles, but I loved it. A nose of smoky bacon is followed by impeccably balanced flavors of cherry and smoke. Light-bodied, elegant and seemingly very ready to drink. Leve ragged on this, but I really enjoyed it!

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  • 2001 E. Guigal Ermitage Ex-Voto

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage

    Holey freaking moley, what a terrific youngster of a wine! We decanted 6 hours early, and it was screaming from the get-go with raspberry, violet, and pine. Your mouth is filled by a concerto of vibrant and silky fruit, explosive and bright, already ridiculously pleasurable to drink. One of my favorite wines of the tasting.

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  • 2001 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Cuvée la Belle Hélène

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    Of the two 2001 Ogier luxury Cuvees, this was the more approachable. However, compared to the 2001 Guigal Ex-Voto Rouge this was offering very little. Peppery with nice floral elements, good weight, actually surprising round. This undoubtedly needs a decade to shine, but it lacked some excitement.

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  • 2001 Michel & Stéphane Ogier Côte-Rôtie Cuvée Lancement

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie

    I found this to be the darker and meatier than the Belle Helene with olives and a deep, dark, black, brooding personality, meaty, powerful but also very closed in. I like the style of this more and look forward to visiting it in a decade.

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Flight 3 (3 Notes)

The meal tailed off with a nice salad, the tunes getting louder, and everyone starting to wander around to play boardgames. These bottles opened up because, well, they were there!

  • NV Bodegas Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único Reserva Especial 1970, 1972, 1974 (1994 Release)

    Spain, Castilla y León, Ribera del Duero

    It was getting late, but people chose to pop this one. Having very little experience with Tempranillo I was expecting something that was fairly lighter-bodied and higher-acid, more Pinot like. Much to my surprise, this was more akin to a Priorat, thick, surprisingly chewy and dark, hints of tobacco, an intriguing wine, but I was getting pretty spent and didn't follow it for very long.

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  • 1982 Château Haut-Brion

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Our last red of the night was the 1982 Haut Brion, and all I wanted to do was cuddle up to this one. Smokey and roasted, gorgeous, coffee, sweet fruit, leather, very young, and chewy, maybe a little rustic even, yet supremely delicious. Long after everyone was off playing board games I came back to refill on this one. Super yum!

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  • 1983 Château Raymond-Lafon

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes

    I carried my glass with me for a while, managed a few sniffs and ultimately gave up without trying this. A little orange creamsicle on the nose. I am sure it would have been nice, but I was done.

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Closing

I gathered up the bottles on the bar in order, took down all of the names and then curled up in an armchair, fully spent and very contented! Thanks again for another great night!

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