Domaine de Chevalier Wine Lunch

A big thank to you to Panos for arranging this beautiful lunch with Olivier Bernard from Domaine de Chevalier on a cold January day in DC. The Domaine worked with Panos to setup a 10 vintage tasting (2000-2009) with an accompanying lunch of Chevalier wines ending in "1". Oliver provided us with detailed insight into his beginnings in the Bordeaux world, details regarding specific vintages, and the suggestion that if you can find a magnum of 1920 Margaux, buy it!

This was the first real exposure to Domaine de Chevalier's wine and the characteristics that came through most commonly was a zesty acidity, with smokey minerals, cassis and subtle tobacco tones. The fruit was decidedly cool across the board as well. The whites, on the other hand were characterized by youthful color, lemon zest, smoked oak and a "tidal pool" type of minerality that I loved.

The staff at Blacksalt also deserve credit for handling such a large group and complex meal. Executive Chef Richard Cook prepared a 6 course tasting menu paired with the wine and I, for one, enjoyed his thoughtful preparation and skillful execution.

It was great to see such a large group of DC wine lovers and I left having forged new friendships and a better understanding and appreciation for the wines of Mssr. Oliver Bernard.

I enjoyed the 2000 the most. It had a polish to it that I didn't find in the other two. There were a lot of folks that preferred the 2001 or the 2002 over the 2000, but for me, I would go back to the 2000 in a heartbeat.

• 2000 Domaine de Chevalier 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Nose had cassis, caramel, roasted herbs and cedar. Palate had firm structure, good red fruit with a distinctly balanced nature. While not fully resolved at this time, I thought this wine had a lot of potential to improve and turn into an outstanding Bordeaux in a couple of years. This was my favorite in the flight next to the 2001 and 2002 - more because of its potential than because of how it was drinking today.

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• 2001 Domaine de Chevalier 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Thought the nose had a lot of coffee grind notes with rosemary, red florals and smokey minerals. Palate had tart cranberry and black fruit with nice acidity and minerals. Didn't have the smooth, luxurious palate the 2002 Chevalier did, but this did have a darker core that was intriguing.

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• 2002 Domaine de Chevalier 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Thought the nose had a nice combination of smokiness and cranberry. Palate was a bit more feminine that the 2001, and not as dense and structured as the 2000. The palate was characterized by red florals, cassis, some black fruits and smokey minerals. Certainly a nice wine that did well against the 2001 and 2000 Chevaliers.

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A very fun flight as each vintage was so distinct in Graves. The 2003 was certainly the most open of the three, but even Oliver Bernard commented that he won't be keeping his 2003s for very long. The heat of the 2003 vintage really came through with its warm fruit expression versus the cool fruit of 2004 and the big structure of the 2005. My favorite flight of the day!

• 2003 Domaine de Chevalier 87 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Nose is more advanced than the 2000, 2001, and 2002 wines. Fruit is red, ripe and round and has integrated nicely with some earthen flavors. Finish has fine tannis without the acidity or structure of some of the other wines. Certainly a wine that is not meant for, or probably able to, age all too much longer.

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• 2004 Domaine de Chevalier 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  A really nice DdC. Nose had classic Graves notes with pencil lead, currant, red florals, and some wet coffee grinds. Its core was decidedly dark with tightly wound up blackcurrant, mushroom and rose petals - felt the palate was quite dense and structured with a really intriguing complexity. Fine tannic finish points to a long, enjoyable life ahead. One of my top wines of the day.

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• 2005 Domaine de Chevalier 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  I thought this was an interesting wine. Nose is dark and complex, and at first, not too forthcoming. I let it sit in the glass for as long as I could and towards the end, a leathery-ness was growing on the nose - added to that was subtle red fruit and toffee. Palate was masculine and not too forgiving at this point. It had dark fruits, cassis, and a scorched earth aspect that was nice. This will need some time for the tannis to even out, but it should be a very nice Graves.

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The baby flight. For me, this was a great opportunity to see the vintage variations side-by-side. I was impressed by the 2008, and for my first 2009, thought the fruit was more restrained and balanced than I had expected. My scores probably aren't as high as some for the 2009, but being new to the world of barrel samples I did my best to imagine what the wine would morph into with aging.

• 2006 Domaine de Chevalier 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  I thought the nose was a bit closed down at first (others disagreed). Soon subtle red cherry, leather, and sous bois tones emerged. Palate was actually pretty enjoyable with robust red fruit, subtle tobacco and mushroom notes and a zippy acidity on the finish. Would benefit from a couple of years to soften up a bit, but should be pretty nice.

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• 2007 Domaine de Chevalier 87 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Nose showed a lot of pencil lead, underbrush, dark cherry, and cassis. Palate was thinner than most of the other cuvees, but it was also drinking quite well. Good red fruit, nice earthy notes, with an acidic finish. Not super complex, but offered a really enjoyable experience. If only the price was 50% less, this could be a really nice purchasing option.

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• 2008 Domaine de Chevalier 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  The 2008 had tones of smokey minerals, cassis, red florals, and subtle "campfire" on the nose. For such a young wine, the palate was showing some really nice depth and class at this stage. I was impressed by the red fruit and the tobacco on the palate. Should be an exciting wine to watch mature.

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• 2009 Domaine de Chevalier 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  (from barrel sample) Nose had dense coffee, black cherry and crushed rocks. Concentration of the wine far exceeded the 2008, but the fruit was elegant. Again, this wine had really nice acidity and minerality throughout with worked well with the dense fruit. Should be interesting to see where this one ends up down the line.

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Served with an alpine oyster & California Ostera.

• NV Bollinger Champagne Special Cuvée Brut 87 Points

  France, Champagne

  From magnum. A pleasant champagne that had subtle yeast and citrus notes. I didn't give this much of a chance to develop in the glass...but it was nice.

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• 1981 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Incredibly youthful color that was more characteristic of a newly released wine, not a 30 year old one! Nose had smokey minerals, white flowers, a hint of diesel, and oak. For me, the palate was dominated by oak flavors. Along with the toasty oak, there was some brisk citrus flavors, and a distinct minerality that was very nice. Hard for me to get past the oak on this wine...I wonder if it needs more time???

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Served with a Maine Diver Scallop & Organic Salmon Carpaccio. This was atop radish, local apples, with a lemon-saffrom vinaigrette.

• 1991 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Very nice, youthfeel color. Much like the 1981 drank before it, the color was so surprising! The nose gave off tones of paint, honey, and the classic smokey mineral component of Graves. Palate showed a lot of oak, with almost a smoked peach flavor that was pretty intriguing. Hard to tell if the oak will ever fully integrate with the fruit, but there are still years of life ahead of this wine.

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Served with Roasted Atlantic Bigeye Tuna Belly. Prepared with white beans, local turnip puree, navel orange and olives.

• 2001 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 93 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  I loved this wine. Nose had lovely waxy white flowers, fresh melons, and candied pears. The palate had exotic roasted herbs, lemon oil, a seashell-infused edge and white florals. Fascinated by the complexity on the palate and the freshness (and lack of overpowering oak) this wine had. The finish was long, complex and structured with bracing acidity - potentially my WOTD.

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Served with Virginia White Sweet Potato Ravioli - ravioli was stuffed with Maryland pork & pecan consomme and served with lacinato kale and sage. I thought this was an incredible dish. Would have happily eaten 10 portions of this!

• 1961 Domaine de Chevalier 91 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Bottle was provided by the Domaine and had its original cork, and a top shoulder fill level. Nose had a distinct minty/eucalyptus tone that reminded some of us of an older Montelana we had before. It also had subtle cranberry and tobacco on the nose. Palate was still fresh and lively. The red fruit was subtle, and combined with a sauteed mushroom component - really nice combination of flavors. The finish was lingering and had zippy acidity.

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Served with slow braised Pineland Farm's short ribs. The ribs had foie gras, veal sweet breads, cabbage, and miitake mushrooms on top.

• 1991 Domaine de Chevalier 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  For a down year, this wine surprised me with how much structure and fruit it had left. The nose had tart cranberry, and a good deal of shredded tobacco. Palate showed subtle red fruit, with tilled soil, and a bright acidity kick on the finish. For a wine I wasn't giving much of a chance, this was a great surprise!

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Selection of artisanal cheeses.

• 1981 Domaine de Chevalier 89 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

  Lovely stuff. Classic Graves nose of tobacco, minerals, tart cranberry and smoke. Palate is still lively and fresh with flavors of dark cherry, tart cranberry, crushed rocks and tobacco. This is another example of a 1981 Bordeaux that surprised me with its charm, balance and classic flavors.

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