The 3 Cs of the Northern Rhone
Tasted Thursday, May 5, 2011 by Faryan with 640 views
Introduction
We had a magical evening last weekend, accentuated by superb cuisine you rarely find in a restaurant. Host Ian L and his buddy Todd simply cooked up a storm. The pairings were magical and the quality and authenticity was superb.
2000 Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 89 Points
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
The Nerthe was waxy and viscous, what one would expect from aged cdp. Nice notes of marcona almonds and waxy honeycomb (non-sweet). There is some quince and lychee fruit as well. Paired very well with the cheeses, duck terrine and olives at the deck.
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2001 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc 91 Points
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
This 01 Beau blanc reminded me of an 05 I popped a few months ago, except it had more depth, density and gravitas. The wine is still reaching towards complexity but it has such lovely balance and harmony to its nose and mouthfeel. Those that aren't fond of CDP blanc may find the mouthcoating waxiness a bit smothering, but paired with caviar and seafood salad, there was such a lovely harmony to the elemnts. Really brought out the best in the wine.
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1999 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Blanc Le Méal 95 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Simply superb. Has more complexity, nervosity and dimensionality than the beau blanc which looked like a laborious one-note bird afterwards. Layers of orchard fruit, quince, kumquat and lychees with such a lithe and delicate texture. Thing Condrieu with more dimensionality and exoticism. Wonderful notes of kumquat, apricot and some almond characteristics emerged with more airtime. It could use another decade to get up to par. We finished the Meal with a course of Provencal rabbit with fennel, spices and caper berries. Superb food and a wonderful pairing between the reduction sauce of the vegetables/stew with the meal.
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1983 Clos du Mont-Olivet Châteauneuf-du-Pape 84 Points
France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
More of an intriguing foray into aged CDP, even though this particular bottle was past. Heavy note of wet sous bois that actually gained some depth with more time (hints of garrigue and wet cherry emerging). It had some interesting tertiarity on the nose with mushrooms and forest, but the wine was past its peak.
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1997 Paul Jaboulet Aîné Hermitage La Chapelle 93 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
See previous notes for description of a more advanced showing...A pristine bottle, decanted for roughly 2 hours. Superb clarity and richness on the nose, showing at a nice plateau of drinking but hardly at maturity. We found the wine at a great spot and it rewarded us with delicate perfumed cherry. Many were enchanted with the wine.
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1996 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Méal 92 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Big, brawny and entering a nice phase as the modernity of the wine is fading away and the pillars of Hermitage left to be seen. It was perhaps more in line with the 98 Chave (more on that later) in terms of structure. Wonderful notes of blackberry, briarpatch and coffee, intermixed with verve and exoticism. The wine is still real big even after a 2.5 hour decant. Could likely use another decade and one might see some lovely notes of bay leaf, toffee and blackberry come into more focus and deeper harmony.
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1997 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 94 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
simply stupendous. It was the nose of the night and the wine of the night, exhibitng layers of complex cherry, briarberry, loam, truffle and earthiness. It was delicate and finegrained but so explosive and evocative with waves of complexity on the nose. A stellar showing on a great drinking plateau. 94-95
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1998 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 92 Points
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
Far more backward than the 97 drank alongside, with reticent structure and meatiness to the nose. Heavier cherry, not as footloose. I will note that the 97 Chave was decanted for about 2-3 hours while the 98 was only slow-ox'd for an hour+. Revisit in a few.
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1990 Domaine des Baumard Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru 94 Points
France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Quarts de Chaume Grand Cru
While the palate of the baumard was fantstic with its nectarine/orange driven notes, there was that telltale Loire desert quality to the nose, that stemmy/wooly nature you get in Huet as well. I think this lends it unique character and an ability to pair with a wider array of foods/cheeses, but some find it offputting. The wine though, drinks phenomenal and will only continue to get better.
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