Grower Champagnes with the Growers

Some of the growers themselves dropped in to Hi-Times to pour their wines and chat with us about them which is always a treat for me. Family members from Goutorbe, Billiot and Margaine were on hand as was a representative from Geoffroy. Talking to Laetitia Billiot while she pours her name sake cuvee was a big treat. Etienne Goutorbe is a lot of fun also and invited us to come to their new hotel on the estate. A strong lineup up and down. The two 02's were my fav though I have some previous experience with them. I also really liked both of the Billiot wines.

• NV Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Cuis

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  Very expressive nose with a strong note of sweet bread. A touch of sweetness and a nice mineral character on a fairly lengthy palate. Grippy acids. Very nice in a restrained style.

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• 2002 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Champagne Special Club Millesimé de Collection

  France, Champagne

  Pretty and subtle nose. Very clean and on the tight side still. Lots of mineral character and wound up fruit. Excellent and in need of some cellar time.

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• NV A. Margaine Champagne Brut Cuvée Traditionelle

  France, Champagne

  The nose was more reminiscent of a Blanc de Blancs. The character was flat and uninspired which seemed to leave the finish strongly tart.

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• 2000 A. Margaine Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Millésimé

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  There is a reductive note on the nose mixed in with a strong sourdough bread aroma. Rich palate being somewhat round.

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• NV Geoffroy Champagne Premier Cru Expression Brut

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  5g/L dosage. Odd nose showing not only a ripe fruit character but also a seemingly unripe celery note. Weighty and concentrated with a strong green apple sense. Missing enough acidity to balance the fruit.

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• 2004 Geoffroy Champagne Premier Cru Volupté

  France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru

  3g/L dosage. The winemaker said this is actually a blanc de blancs. Toasty nose. Fresh tart stone fruit palate with nectarines dominating. Well balanced and refreshing. Very nice and a huge step up from the NV bottle.

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• NV Henri Goutorbe Champagne Cuvée Prestige

  France, Champagne

  Disgorged in Aug 2009. Tight nose with hints of mushroomy reduction. Light, airy and elegant. Palate cleansing citrus on the finish. Very nice.

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• 2002 Henri Goutorbe Champagne Grand Cru Special Club

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  75%/25% - Pinot/Chard. Ripe, powerful red fruits are the main expression. Powerful yet very clean on the finish. A fine example of a grower achieving great heights in a good vintage. A terrific wine.

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• NV H. Billiot Fils Champagne Grand Cru Brut Réserve

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  From three vintages 50/25/25 - 08/07/06. 75/25 - Pinot/Chard 100% Granc Cru fruit from the first press. Ripe fruited nose. Fresh palate of stone fruits and apples. Still love this stuff.

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• NV H. Billiot Fils Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Laetitia Brut

  France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru

  A blend of 19 vintages though not in a solera. Much more reserved and elegant than the regular reserve. Clean, fresh nectarines. Very pretty though it might have been that much better because I was talking to Laetitia herself while drinking it.

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