Christmas WIMPS (Bordeaux Table)

The Ledbury, London.
Tasted Tuesday, December 13, 2011 by SimonG with 583 views

Flight 1 (1 Note)

Canapés

Flight 2 (2 Notes)

Chantilly of Colchester oysters with a tartare of oyster and scallop, horseradish and dill; oyster beignet

  • 1996 Château de Fieuzal Blanc

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Quite a full gold, evolved colour. Slightly oxidative nose, wax and lanolin. Nice weight on palate. Very smooth, rounded and quite weighty. Not much complexity, but quite engaging. ***

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  • 1981 Château Laville Haut-Brion Blanc

    France, Bordeaux, Graves, Pessac-Léognan

    Only mid straw in colour; far paler than te 96 Fieuzal. Lighter and fresher nose too. A slightly woody element at the start of the mid-palate that blows off after an hour or so in the decanter to reveal a wonderfully fragrant, elegant wine. Lovely line. A touch of wax and wool alongside some tropical fruit and freshness. Really lovely. ****1/2

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Flight 3 (2 Notes)

Breast of Berkshire partridge with chestnuts, Iberian ham and sunflower seeds

  • 1975 Château Mouton Rothschild

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    A little tighter and slightly sturdy cd the 71 Cheval. Slightly herbaceous cassis fruit. Firm. Reasonable length and really quite tasty. ***1/2

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  • 1971 Château Cheval Blanc

    France, Bordeaux, Libournais, St. Émilion Grand Cru

    Cloudy and some quite fine sediment. Slightly sweet, figgy, slightly lifted volatile nose. A nice combination of sweet and dry; evolved fruit and sediment. Lovely but this needs drinking. (*)***

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Flight 4 (4 Notes)

Shoulder of Pyrenean milk fed lamb with crushed jerusalem artichoke and winter savoury

  • 1989 Château Branaire (Duluc-Ducru)

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien

    Classic St Julien cigar box and cedar nose. Sweet fruited. Quite lush and sexy upfront but doesn't quite deliver this promise on the mid-palate and finish. Very nice though but shaded in the company. ***1/2

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  • 1989 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

    Good blackcurrant leaf nose. Smooth, rounded atatck. Quite mellow through the mid-palate and smooth reasonably long finsih. Shows more seriosuly than the Branaire but finishes a bit behind the Cos and Montrose. ****

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  • 1989 Château Cos d'Estournel

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    There's a ripeness and a lushness to the fruitbefore the structure grips you. Opens up well. Density and savouryness. Opens up well in the glass. Generous. ****1/2

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  • 1989 Château Montrose

    France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe

    Very dense, velvety, plush and yet mineral. very impressive. A notch above the Cos I think. The right mix of fruit, structure and savoury complexity. Splendid. *****

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Flight 5 (1 Note)

Chocolate pavé with caramelised hazelnut ice cream

  • 1963 Graham Porto Vintage 94 Points

    Portugal, Douro, Porto

    Sweet fruited, a touch hot and showing its alcohol (but had only just been decanted). Long. Very nice indeed. I think I prefer this (just) to the 66 at the Palmer bash a couple of weeks ago. Tough call though. As only a very occassioanl drinker of port I thought this splendid. ****1/2

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Closing

Another Ledbury / WIMPS great. The company, the food, the wine, the occassion. Thank you all.

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