Atlanta offline at Kevin Rathbun's Steak

8 of us met up at Kevin Rathbun's Steak for a night of complete debauchery and great merriment. This was my first time at Kevin Rathbun's Steak, but definitely not my last. From the GM Doug, to our server and the team in the kitchen, we had nothing but the very best of experiences. This was my first time meeting Atlanta CTers and a Berserker, but, like the restaurant, not my last. Some truly wonderful wines that, despite their greatness, will live in the shadow of the company I shared. Thank you all

We began with a Franciacorta and moved through six different whites, taking our time to appreciate them fully with various soups, salads and spicy crustacean dishes. The reds came fast and furious, which seemed to match the general noise level that follows once everyone's properly lubricated. Can't say enough great things about the food and service, and Kevin is a very cool, down-to-earth guy.

• 2003 Ca' del Bosco Franciacorta Vintage Collection Brut

  Italy, Lombardia, Franciacorta DOCG

  PnP. My first 03 Franciacorta from this consistently enjoyable producer. Having said that, I purchased this vintage to see what type of wine might come from such a hot, hot vintage. While there is nothing overtly ripe or unbalanced, the wine still seemed to lack the yeastiness and complexity I expect from a $50 Franciacorta/this producer. The apple, spice and buttered toast were fresh and light, the bubbles fine and fast. Good not great. Disgorged Sept 08, 12,5% abv, drink thru 2015
  
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• 2008 Château de Fosse-Seche Saumur Arcane

  France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur

  PnP. Medium straw color, very reflective. At first, this wine was like smelling a raw scallop with all its fleshy richness tickling and teasing your nose. By the ten minute mark, this had moved to perfumed, powerful aromas of honeyed white floral, peaches, ripe apple and spices. Medium-bodied, with surprising power and vibrancy. Not a slight wine, but remains well-composed throughout. Nothing oxidative, nothing cliché, just fresh and bold with a rich vein of chiseled rocks and minerals. This was a treat. I just bought 4 bottles even though I'm on a moreorlessatorium. Highly recommended for Chenin/Loire geeks.

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• 2008 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Grand Cru Bougros

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  PnP tasted next to the 08 Les Clos. Quite different from the Les Clos, this offered more of a saline and chalk character than the more orchard fruit and seashell driven LC. Both wines were full in the mouth, but lifted at just the right moment to keep it all fresh and interesting. A very capable food wine and one that should be worthy of mid-term cellaring. I wish I could afford to drink this wine every day of my life. recommended, drink thru 2018

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• 2006 Yonah Mountain Vineyards Genesis

  USA, Georgia, Lumpkin County

  Slow-O 1 hour, served double-blind. Full ruby core, no sign of age. Primary, with rustic shades that lean toward freshly turned earth and wild herbs. The black and red fruits suggested Rhone, the taste suggested 5 years of age. I did not guess the region and I can't say there is a lot of varietal character here, but the blend is really quite good. I guessed $38 on the shelf, I would pay $30 and have no regrets. Nicely polished once it had fully opened up, with generous acids and round, sweet tannins moving toward a medium + finish. Drink thru 2014
  
  (a blend of Merlot/Cab Sauv with a small amount of Mourvedre, 25% of the grapes are most likely from CA)

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• 2005 Skewis Pinot Noir Bush

  USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley

  Slow-O 1 hour. Medium garnet toward ruby core, no sign of age. Bright cherry, sassafras, dried herbs, faint cherry and tart strawberry all come in a tightly knit, classy package. The palate follows suit, with so much going on yet it's all neatly woven into something that would take hours to deconstruct. Powerful, nearly seamless with great vibrancy of fruit and liveliness of acid. The tannins are beginning to relax, but only just. This must have been a beast on release. I wonder how many of those that tasted on release would have known where this would go. A bit of a velvet glove, but the freshness keeps it interesting. Mostly atypical RRV PN along the lines of J Rochioli. Recommended, drink thru 2014

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• 1999 Giuseppe Quintarelli Valpolicella Classico Superiore

  Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Valpolicella Classico Superiore

  Dark ruby core, no sign of age. Ripe cherries, almonds, toast. Full-bodied, open knit, slightly bitter palate. Needs more time.
  
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• 2002 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Don Melchor

  Chile, Maipo Valley, Puente Alto

  Slow-O 1 hour. Dark ruby core, minimal bricking to the rim. My experience is nearly identical to AllRed's. There was a tartness, a sourness brought on by the loamy essence of the red and black fruits that I didn't really care for. No worry though, there were at least 10 other open bottles at the dinner to chose from :D

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• 1995 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Slow-O one hour. It's only fitting that my last bottle of this superb bottling show as well as any before it. This is in that realm that lies between youth and experience, offering generous amounts of each. Full-bodied with a basket of red and black berries, pencil shavings, red currant and luxurious milk chocolate. Sweet, full tannins offer plenty of grip and a very long, layered finish. 13,5% abv, drink thru 2018, A

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• 1985 Robert Mondavi Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve

  USA, California, Napa Valley

  Slow-O 30 minutes. Medium ruby core, faded to the rim. Graceful, soft as much on the nose as the palate. All the power is gone, in its place are polished, fully mature fruits that caress the palate and evoke thoughts of nobility and purity of fruit. Faded notes of tobacco, menthol and pencil lead all suggest fond memories of a time gone by. A regal wine. Drink thru 2014

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• 2009 Maybach Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Amoenus

  USA, California, Napa Valley, Calistoga

  Slow-O 1 hour. Very dark ruby, toward purple. Creme de Cassis, caramel, Heath Bar, blueberry pie with chocolate sauce, notes of oak spice. Full-bodied, soft, plush and layered, everything hedonists look for. Medium finish, surprisingly approachable tannins, fruit. However, I vastly preferred the 75 Pichon BCDL, the 08 Saumur Blanc and the 95 Mondavi Reserve - as much for their restraint as their purity of fruit and structure. Drink thru 2015, B+

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• 1975 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Slow-O 30 minutes. Still a medium ruby core, with only modest bricking toward the rim; youthful appearance, obviously well-stored. Powerful aromas of black fruits, black currant, saddle leather, and dried herbs. This took very little time to open up and once it did, it remained fairly linear, relying on its well-developed secondary and tertiary characteristics to hold one's interest. Medium + acids, still very big in the mouth, with very fine tannins giving this the proper framing and finish. I don't see this getting better, drink thru 2017. positively lovely, recommended

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• 2008 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  PnP served side-by-side with the Bougros. Medium straw color, energetic reflections. My first of three and if the other two are as good as this one, I'm a happy, happy man. pbjosh's experience is very similar to mine. Red apple, seashell, chalk, and pear dominate the nose at first, but this packs a lot of complexity and runs through a full range of saline, spice and herb notes before it's all over. Medium-bodied with freshness and length to spare. highly recommended, drink thru 2018, 13,0% abv

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• 2010 Rasa Vineyards Riesling The Lyricist

  USA, Washington, Columbia Valley

  PnP. Medium straw color, brilliant reflection. Opens slowly, but after 10 minutes in the glass pretty orchard fruits, light lychee and apple component. Light spice, mineral, white floral. By the second glass, this had really come into its own, offering a rich, mouthful of wine lifted by significant, but balanced acidity. Think Pfalz Kab toward Spatlese. I really like the way this is framed, structured. Drink thru 2017, recommended

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• 2009 Domaine Matrot Meursault

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  PnP. Medium straw color. Chalky, slightly buttery with matchstick, mineral and white floral edges. The palate was not as enjoyable as the nose, lacking some complexity and vibrancy of fruit that otherwise might have accompanied this wine in a less ripe vintage. Red and yellow apples, coriander and citric on the palate with a medium-short finish. Drink thru 2014

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• 2002 Olga Raffault Chinon Les Picasses

  France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Chinon

  PnP. Dark garnet ruby core, no sign of age. Still rather primary, with a rustic but noble profile of dark red and black fruits, graphite, black peppercorns, and campfire ashes. A beam of acidity manages to keep it fresh and inviting, and the formidable tannins are perhaps in the middle of their mellowing, but really, this wine has several really fun years ahead of it. I wish I had a case. Honest, a bit dirty in a way, but delivers a great sense of place and a touch of savory on the extended finish. Drink thru 2023

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• 2004 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino

  Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino

  Slow-O 1 hour. Medium ruby core, gentle bricking. Milk chocolate, oak spice, cherries, leather and herbs follow largely from the nose to the medium-bodied palate. Gentle, supple, with feminine styling and fresh acidity. Medium finish, medium-high acids. Drink thru 2015
  
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• 1999 Pianpolvere Soprano Barolo Riserva Bussia

  Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo

  Slow-O 1 hr. Dark ruby core, no sign of age. The French oak seems to surround the core of dark red berry/cherry fruit but not to the point that either overwhelms. Red floral, sappy, spicy. Very approachable, with lively acids and copious fruits on a full-bodied frame. Softer tannins than I'd imagined it would have at this young age. This went pretty quickly once it was passed around. Drink thru 2028
  
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• 1996 Agricola Cennatoio Alessi Vin Santo di Caratello Vin Santo di Caratello

  Italy, Tuscany, Vin Santo di Caratello

  Slow-O 2 hours. Surprisingly soft and ready to go. Sweet tea, caramel, crème brûlée, milk chocolate. Supporting acidity kept it fresh, but ultimately this disappointed me as I felt it could have had more complexity and a longer finish. This is actually the Occhio di Pernice bottling. 16,5% abv, drink thru 2014
  
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