Tasting at Domaine Lafarge, Domaine Lamarche and Domaine Bertheau
Volnay, Vosne-Romanée and Chambolle-Musigny
Tasted Wednesday, May 9, 2012 by xwine with 990 views
Introduction
Three visits scheduled for May 9, starting in Volnay with Frédéric Lafarge, then on to Vosne-Romanée with Nathalie Lamarche, and finally to Chambolle-Musigny with François Bertheau.
Flight 1 - Domaine Lafarge (8 Notes)
The very affable Frédéric Lafarge tasted us through a range of his 2010s from bottle. He's truly a pleasure to chat with, and his enthusiasm is contagious. His wines did not disappoint, to put it mildly! They were fresh, energetic and charming, like the man himself.
Flight 2 - Domaine Lamarche (6 Notes)
Nathalie Lamarche tasted us through six wines, conducted in their tasting room. Unfortunately, no cellar tour. We did meet François, Marie-Blanche and Nicole Lamarche, who were all bustling around at various times.
Flight 3 - Domaine Bertheau (7 Notes)
Our last stop of the day was with François Bertheau. A lovely man, very animated and energetic, he displays a real passion for his wines. When we arrived, he had just started a visit with six Swedes and asked if we'd mind joining them. We were happy to oblige. A couple of them had clearly been enjoying a long day of, uh, tasting (and, it seems, no spitting). But they were all very nice, and made the visit . . . well . . . unforgettable. I believe the group included a representative for a Swedish importer, and a sommelier at a Stockholm restaurant, and they were obviously big fans of Domaine Bertheau wines.
Closing
From what I've tried thus far this year (this is written in late May), the 2010s are simply superb. "Energetic" is a word that keeps popping up, as well as "fresh" and "pure." The 2011s likewise seem to be terrific, though my barrel tasting experience is limited. The estimates regarding crop reduction in 2010 ranged from 40% to 50%. Fortunately, while 2011 is also a short crop, most estimates I heard were around 20% reduction. The 2009 vintage is quite ripe and low-acid, which becomes more evident when tasted with 2010s or 2008s. But they're not without their charms, and many of them are simply lovely.
2010 Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne-Aligoté Raisins Dorés
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté
Very fresh and fragrant, a lovely Aligoté. This one is not for making a Kir!
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2010 Domaine Michel Lafarge Meursault
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault
Lithe and fresh, not a "nutty" kind of Meursault.
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2010 Domaine Michel Lafarge Beaune 1er Cru Les Aigrots Blanc
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Again, freshness seems to be the calling card. There's something about the nose that neither I nor E could put our fingers on (not good or bad, just an aroma that stood out).
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2010 Domaine Michel Lafarge Bourgogne
France, Burgundy, Bourgogne
Spice, red fruit, easy sipper, excellent Bourgogne AOC.
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2010 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay Vendanges Sélectionnées
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay
Very floral, the aromatics really shone on this one, a lovely Volnay.
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2010 Domaine Michel Lafarge Beaune 1er Cru Les Aigrots
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru
Quite different from the Volnay V.S., though this was again a very fresh and energetic wine, long on palate.
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2010 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Much deeper nose, red and black fruit, spice; velvety tannins, deep fruit on palate, exceptional finish. Wonderful.
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2010 Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans
France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Very bright red fruit simply jumps out of the glass, terrific energy on the palate, supple red fruit, terrific finish. A "wow" wine! A shade better than the Ducs today.
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