Wine Society "Stars of Pauillac" Tasting

Wine Society Workshop hosted by Sebastian Payne MW. Commenced 11am Saturday morning, 6 tables of between 6 and 8 in the Wine Society Tasting Room. All bottles were double-decanted at 9.30am and were bought up to the tasting room not much warmer than "cellar cool".

Two quite approachable wines, especially the Lynch-Bages which showed significant develpment and was certainly ready. The Carruades shaded this for me. Not that there was anything particularly wrong with the Lynch, just that the Carruades seemed to show more vibrancy and life.

• 2001 Carruades de Lafite 88 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Still quite purple in appearance, med/deep core, narrow pale purple rim.
  Youthful cassis fruit on the nose, some plum, spice and pencil lead.
  Bright cassis and plum fruit on the palate, decent ripe and already quite approachable tannins and good fresh acidity. A medium length bright spicy and fruit finish.
  Very good, if still a bit youthful, and will certainly improve. Drink from 2007/8.

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• 1999 Château Lynch-Bages 87 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Dark ruby red, pale ruby rim.
  Quite developed and rich with blackcurrant fruit, perhaps some tobacco. Chewy tannins. Some spicy notes emerging on a good length finish, with nice fresh acidity. Certainly approachable and satisfying enough, but slightly solid and lacking "spark". Think I prefer the Carruades.

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The most striking contrast between these two was the extent of development. The younger Baron was showing some lovely complexity and development, an eminently drinkable, harmonious, mature wine, yet with the structure and depth to last for many years. By comparison the Lalande, whilst undoubtedly with potential, was still backward and sleepy, even slightly surly. On today's showing the Baron wins hands down (although 70% of the room disagreed with me), but I would like the opportunity to compare them again in 5 years time.

• 1996 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron 94 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Medium/deep garnet core, medium garnet rim.
  Evolved nose, very spicy with lovely savoury yet sweet red-toned fruit, cedar and some gamey notes.
  Spicy strawberry fruit on the palate, some darker notes but overall red-toned like the nose, lovely savoury flavour with quite evolved but still pertinent tannins and then slightly surprises with an incredibly long, lingering sweet, savoury, gamey finish.
  Lovely, classic, old-fashioned claret, certainly approachable now but will also make old bones. WOTD.

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• 1995 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Still shows a very young appearance with dark ruby core and narrow rim.
  Nose shows cassis fruit, some tobacco, seems slightly closed/mute. Noticeably less developed than the Baron. Cassis fruit also dominates the palate which again is slightly tight with firm, but fine tannins and a good length savoury finish.
  Very good/excellent but, at least on this showing, this needs a few more years to begin to express itself more fully.

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No contest here - the Batailley something of a disappointment, the Duhart-Milon a lovely surprise (although the '90 is excellent too).

• 1990 Château Batailley 86 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Developed vegetal, disticntly farmyardy nose. Not unpleasant, but certainly not at all elegant or sophisticated either. Slightly more fruity on the palate with cassis fruit, fully resolved tannins and then a decent savoury, and actually quite mellow, articulate finish.
  Certainly very drinkable but slightly disappointing from something that is usually so reliable - certainly would have expected more from this vintage. Pretty much at its peak now though.

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• 1989 Château Duhart-Milon 92 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Medium garnet core, medium pale rim. Lovely lifted pencil lead, cedary nose with underlying sweet red-toned fruit and caramel hints. Expressive red-toned fruit on an elegant palate with fully resolved, but still supportive tannins, and a very good length savoury strawberry finish. Absolutely lovely, and pretty much at its peak.

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Or over mature in the case of the HBL. The tannins have simply out-lived the fruit. The GPL was a very nice, harmonious, together wine - though possibly it lacked a little complexity and excitement.

• 1986 Château Haut-Bages Libéral 83 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Distinctly farmyardy nose, a bit over the hill. Quite attractive initial attack with spice, vegetal notes and some dried black fruits and leather. But the fruit can't keep up with the still quite aggressive tannins and dies away quickly on the short, drying finish. Drink up.

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• 1982 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste 90 Points

  France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac

  Medium garnet. Evolved red-toned fruit, attractive caramel notes and spice. Lovely smooth tannins, fresh acidity and a good length savoury, sweet finish. Harmonious and elegant, drinking very well. Nice wine.

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All the wines were excellently presented, at the right temperature (ie not too warm!) in a relaxed and informal atmosphere. An enjoyable way to spend a Saturday morning.