White Rhones ($20 to $40)

Tasted Wednesday, August 29, 2012 by Loren Sonkin with 557 views

Introduction

Lat night my value tasting group met to try a different topic. White Rhones (and Rhone varietals). The rules were all wines to be locally purchased, off the store shelves, $20 to $40. This proved difficult in the arid wine dessert of Cleveland, Ohio. The fact is not a lot of this wine makes it into Ohio and less makes it onto store shelves. Also, we rarely seem to see these wines in a timely fashion. For example, no 2010 CdP only 2009. It becomes an issue with some of these wines as white Rhones can tend to shut down even if built to age. and of course, some of these just are made to age. In any event, we had a good time. Our host, Todd M. provided a generous starter and some great cheeses.

Flight 1 (1 Note)

  • 2011 Domaine Tempier Bandol Rosé 89 Points

    France, Provence, Bandol

    Nice enough, but considering where the price has gone, I am not sure there is any value left. At one time, this was the best Rose out there. It seems to me though, people are making more Rose and better than ever and this has been left behind. Salmon in color. The nose is slight with some watermelons and cranberries. Refreshing to drink, but not a lot of fruit. Perhaps I am used to all those "new" Roses from Cal, Spain and Italy that have much more vibrant food while still being food friendly. This also has the bitterness on the finish that used to characterize Rose for me, but seems to have been eliminated by so many today. In short, a nice wine, but not what I am looking for any longer in a Rose. Kind of like seeing an old flame who now does nothing for you. Nice memories, but a bit sad and nothing I am any longer interested in.

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Flight 2 (8 Notes)

  • 2011 Saint Cosme Côtes du Rhône Blanc 89 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône

    Golden in color. The nose is tight but with air shows vanilla, wax paper and slight quince notes. Slightly bitter at first, it reveals some fresh ginger which is nice. This got better as the night went on. The group liked it more than I, and I thought this is good. For around $20, this delivers.

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  • 2010 Château de Campuget Viognier 1753 90 Points

    France, Languedoc Roussillon, Languedoc, Gard

    I liked this more than the group (which voted it last). Yellow/gold in color, light. I was the first pour from the bottle, but it seemed the deeper in the bottle, the more the stink on the nose. It did seem to get better all night. My glass had some waxy qualities, a white floral (honeysuckle?) note that associate with French viognier, and a slight bit or road tar. Nice texture with lanolin, and a bit of minerals on the palate. Slight heat on the finish but went well with cheeses. I suspect this is past prime and should be consumed soon. Still, I enjoyed it.

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  • 2007 Curran Grenache Blanc 87 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley

    I am a big fan of these wines but I think this was past prime. Light gold in color. The nose shows crushed rocks, and a slight mint gum note but none of the fruit that these had when younger. A bit candied (sweet tarts) on the palate. Slight bitter, slight sweet finish. This is not only older for Grenache Blanc but had been sitting on a retailers shelf. That is was as good as it is is a testament to the wine IMO and how pure it was on release. But, it never improved in the glass and kept sliding. Drink up.

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  • 2009 Vignobles Mayard Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc La Crau de la Mere 88 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    Golden in color. The nose is baked apples. On the palate, lanolin and a waxy note. This is nice and clean. Not much complexity. I am told it cost near $40 which is more than i would want to pay. It did get two 1sts and 2 2nds though, so some liked it more than I.

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  • 2009 Famille Perrin / Perrin & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc Les Sinards 87 Points

    France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

    I brought this one and was disappointed for having spend $39 Ohio on it. Light golden in color. The nose was tight and never really gave up much. Some minerals and some ginger. An oily texture which was the best feature on this wine. Its simple and one dimensional. Some heat and slightly medicinal on the finish.

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  • 2009 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc 90 Points

    USA, California, Central Coast, Paso Robles

    The groups WOTN. Light golden in color. The nose has some slight toast qualities. Baked apples and fresh white raisins. Nice texture. Apple pie flavors and some wax paper notes. Slight bitter on the finish, but not enough to be a problem. This is good. The TC vintage chart says this is young and needs decanting. it did get better all night long.

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  • 2009 Jeff Cohn Cellars The First Date 90 Points

    USA, California

    I liked this but there is a ton of oak on the nose. had it been more integrated, I might have liked it even more. How soon will this integrate is the issue. Light gold in color. The nose is pears and vanilla and reminds me of dessert. On the palate, a lovely full bodied oily texture. The oak comes across as vanilla and is not harsh. It dominates the fruit, but there is enough body to carry this off. At my limits, but others found it problematic.

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  • 2009 M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage Blanc Petite Ruche 87 Points

    France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Crozes-Hermitage

    Light golden in color. The nose is nice with baked apples and cooked white raisins. Soft texture. On the palate, it had an Alka-Seltzer quality sans the bubbles and not much fruit left. It is a solid wine, and I wonder if it was better a year ago. perhaps starting to shut down. Perhaps it never was better, but given the producer, I suspect it is shutting down already.

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Closing

At the end I asked if anyone was buying any of these wines. A resounding no. The purpose of this group is to find wines that we can all buy for our cellars. I suspect part of the problem is not finding younger vintages to taste. Perhaps, this is just a difficult price range for these wines.

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