First Look at Some 2005 Red Burgundy

The Chicago Lieu-dit Cru got together Sunday night and opened nine bottles of 2005 Burgundy, ranging from Bourgogne through Grand Cru. Bottom line, I continue to be impressed with almost all the ‘05’s – at all levels in both the more “modern” and “traditional” styles.

• 2005 Henri Boillot Meursault

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault

  The aromas were ripe and impressive. Flavors showed tons of ripe stone fruit with lots of minerality and very nice spice. Wine kept improving as it got a bit warmer (plus more air). Outstanding Villages wine. I bought a case from Premier Cru when they had it on sale (pre reviews) and wish I bought more.

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• 2005 David Duband Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits

  Drinking nicely. Good balance of red fruit with the acidity and minerality. Clearly a simple wine, but what more can you expect from this level? Probably not a wine for people who don’t like Burgundy.

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• 2005 Domaine Perrot-Minot Bourgogne

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  Wine of the first flight. Our group includes people who prefer the more traditional style and others who prefer the more modern style, but everybody enjoyed this wine. Lots of nuance and already showing the emergence of interesting spice. It had a bit too much oak right now for me, but I think this will be a beauty in another year or two.

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• 2005 Domaine Robert Groffier Bourgogne

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  Good spicy character, a bit more oaked than I’d prefer. Lots of fruit to start but it quickly became rather muted. I liked that the tannins gave it a bit more rustic charm than I’d expect from such a young Bourgogne. Very similar the 2nd day.

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• 2005 Joseph Drouhin Bourgogne Véro

  France, Burgundy, Bourgogne

  Probably the most classically styled of the first four wines. Good fruit, but the minerality and acidity were more dominant. Nice spice, more delicate than the other wines. Already starting to show some interesting nuance, which were more pronounced the next night. An amazing bargain of a wine. This the 4th time I've had the wine, and every time have had the same observation.

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• 2005 Château de la Maltroye Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos du Château de la Maltroye Rouge

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

  First time I’ve ever this wine from any vintage. Dark fruit with great intensity. The sweet fruit already balances fairly well with the oak. Not the most complicated wine, but it was drinking beautifully Sunday night.

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• 2005 Domaine Robert Chevillon Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles 93 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru

  I could not believe this was Burgundy when we decanted it – it was dark purple and completely opaque. Bright fruit with lively acidity. Wonderful minerality also helped lengthen the finish. Clearly a wine that needs lots more time, this was still exceptional on Sunday. It kept changing but never really closed down in our glasses. I can’t wait to try this again in another decade+. My 2nd favorite wine of the night. Grand Cru quality.

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• 2005 Maison Champy Echezeaux

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

  Probably my least favorite wine of this second flight, but still close to a 90-point effort (which obviously says something about the vintage). Very nice fruit – blackberry, blueberry character – but a bit simpler than some of the others. Nice spice. Identical the 2nd night.

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• 2005 La Pousse d'Or Corton-Clos du Roi 95 Points

  France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton Grand Cru

  I’m quite glad to have 5 more bottles plus 3 magnums already ordered. Consensus Wine of the Night. Sweet lush fruit – blackberry, black cherry – both on the nose and palate. Incredibly rich and dense, but incredibly balanced at the same time. Very long finish. Huge wine, this will last for decades. For me, a true “95 point” wine. The 2nd night this was much less dense, with the fruit a bit muted in the middle. But it still had the same aromatics plus the same great finish.

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