Progress Report-2006 Dauvissat and Raveneau Chablis

We were provided the opportunity to take a relatively early look at almost the entire Dauvissat range and a few Raveneau Premier Crus to see what is happening with this atypical Chablis vintage.

• 2006 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis

  France, Burgundy, Chablis

  Fairly ripe and rich without being exotic. Drinking well now.

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• 2006 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Nice seashell aromatics. Fairly delicate citrus fruit with no sense of overripeness.

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• 2006 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Richer and weightier than the Vaillons with sweeter orange fruit. This reminded me of the 2009 Forest and was similarly very, very good.

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• 2006 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Most floral nose of the night. Different feel from the Dauvissat Vaillons due to the more prominent wood influence but still delicate wine with some oyster shell.

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• 2006 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  This had some of the hallmark Raveneau hazelnut and vanilla from the wood. Delicious but little in the way of Chablis structure.

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• 2006 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre Flawed

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

  Corked!

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• 2006 Dauvissat-Camus Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  This had by far the most typical Chablis briny, brothy aromatics. Less sweet than the Vaillons or Forest. Medium weight, lovely texture and surprisingly ready. It showed some sulfur as it sat open.

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• 2006 Dauvissat-Camus Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

  France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru

  Slightly larger scaled and less ready than the Preuses. Not nearly as interesting aromatically at this point. Honestly, the one bottle tonight where more age is necessary.

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Looking back at my notes, the good news is that most of the wines were sound, and with the exception of the Dauvissat AC wine, there was not nearly as much overripeness or exotic notes as I had feared. On the other hand, nothing was extraordinary and there is little mention of acidity or Chablis characteristics. It is possible that some of these wines will improve, but based upon what we saw tonight, I feel quite safe in putting all of these wines into the consumption pipeline over the next few years rather than holding them for a full 10 year "grace period" as I would for more classic vintages.