Swiss & Burgundy

The Ledbury, London.
Tasted Tuesday, November 20, 2012 by SimonG with 555 views

Flight 1 (1 Note)

  • 1999 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Cuvée Creation 90 Points

    France, Champagne

    Mid straw. Nicely rounded and slightly honied nose, hinting at richness beneath. A sense of dosage on the attack, quote creamy and soft. Mellow and comforting rather than challenging. Consistent with last bottle two years ago. ***1/2

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Flight 2 (2 Notes)

  • 2007 Gantenbein Chardonnay 91 Points

    Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch

    Pale straw. Initially quite restrained on the nose, opening up to a quite light, tropical fruit note. White fruit, tropical fruit on the attack, quite rich and long with a sense of fatness and possibly alcohol on th mid-palate, though this disapates with air and shows nicely linear and focused. Very good, ****

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  • 2007 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatières 88 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Oh dear, this is a worry. Quite a deep full straw to light gold. Significantly darker than I might have hoped. Quite rich on the nose, slightly nutty and brown buttery. Quite rich on the attack, very rounded and open. Seems fatter and rounder than I'd expect for 07, thought the acidity does show with air. Feels a bit flabby cf the Gantenbein. ***

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Flight 3 (3 Notes)

  • 2007 Gantenbein Pinot Noir 93 Points

    Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch

    Dark red fruit on the nose. Quite dense. Deep colour. A touch of oak. Oakier on the palate, and getting more so with air. Dense fruit. This doesn't have the approachableness of 07 Burgundy. Noticeably denser than the Wegelin. It's all there, but needs time. **(**).

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  • 2007 Peter Wegelin - Scadenagut Blauburgunder Reserva Malans 92 Points

    Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Malans

    Dark, but slightly lighter colour than the Gantenbein. More of a sense of oak initially, but this lifts to show quite glossy, plush fruit, but a good fruit core and a slightly lighter texture than the Gantenbein. Smooth, silky-velvety and air long. Less dense and concentrated than the Gantenbein but an easier proposition now. ****

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  • 2007 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Goulots Vieille Vigne 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Still showing a bit of toasty reduction though it opens up nicely in the glass. Very Fourrier and attractively 07. I suspect the Gantenbein will be the more interesting in the long run but this has more immediate appeal, ****

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Flight 4 (3 Notes)

  • 2002 Gantenbein Pinot Noir 92 Points

    Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch

    Dense, glossy, a slightly oaky patina initially. A glossiness and a polish on the palate. Mid weight, a slight gloss. Opens up to a classic and red fruited mid-palate. Not quite as integrated as the 01 but very attractive and with more immediate appeal. ****

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  • 2001 Gantenbein Pinot Noir 92 Points

    Switzerland, Eastern Switzerland, Graubünden, Fläsch

    Again mellow, smooth, a slightly evolved quality cf the 02. With air this shows well. Rounded, a touch of caramel. A little more immediate than the 02 but similar quality. ****

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  • 2001 Domaine René Engel Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Brulées 92 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Dense red fruit, a silky gloss. More resolved and less oaky than the Gantenbeins, very hard to describe but harmonious and lovely. a citrus freshness coming through. Some spice, fresh, citrus zest. Fresh and uplifting. ****

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Flight 5 (1 Note)

  • 1988 Château Climens 91 Points

    France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac

    Mid amber. Burnt sugar, a touch f barley sugar. Botrytis on the nose. As Chris suggests. A slightly herbal element on the edge of the mid-palate that I didn't get in previous bottles. Fresh and focused finish. Good balance between the sweet and a slightly clipped savouriness. Fresh. ****

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