Bar Boulud, NYC
Tasted Saturday, February 16, 2013 by salil with 444 views
A fascinating contrast with the "Diabas" bottling. Dorothee Zilliken says this comes mainly from older vines on slate in the Rausch, whereas the Diabas parcels are on volcanic stone. This has a broad palate presence; it's rich and powerful with ripe pear and lime fruit and a solid stony mineral base beneath. Impressive, though not particularly charming.
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This has 17 g/l residual sugar (the Rausch GG has 8), and the difference is striking - this feels lighter on its feet, the sweetness is just barely noticeable and it has a much more polished, almost creamy palate presence without the hard edges of the GG. Really nice, I liked this a little more than the dry wine.
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Florian says this is from a parcel in the Kupp with southwestern exposure on the foot of the hill, with finer, weathered slate soil and trellised vines. The wine's lovely; a scent of spring flowers, lower toned fennel-like notes and that sponti yeast funk, and great depth and balance on the palate with ripe melon and stone fruits matched by more savoury and stony elements, and bright acidity.
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Older vines here on harder, more stony soil than in the Neuenberg (Florian says the 'Kern' vines here are 70 years old, compared to 30 years of age on average in Neuenberg.) There's a core of ripe peachy and red apple fruit, and a sense of real sappiness to the flavours. Up front it's bright and sweet, but it turns more savoury and slatey on the back end, and the balance is wonderful.
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A ripe, opulent and floral scent, and so layered and polished on the palate. There's a real sense of freshness and juiciness to the fruit flavours, though it does feel a little creamy and soft on the palate. Andreas mentions he's usually made this with a little more skin contact, but used less skin exposure in 2011 given the ripeness and lower acids. About 30 g/l residual sugar in this, though it doesn't taste particularly sweet.
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Riper, more floral and exotic than the feinherb, there's quite a bit of sweetness here (Andreas later says about 60 g/l residual sugar) with a spicy accent to the ripe fruit and florality. Nicely balanced, but for me this comes across more like a ripe Spätlese.
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Very ripe, primary and sweet right now with lots of ripe fruit ranging from red apples to riper melon and nectarine flavours, and an overlay of bright florality and a little sponti yeast funk. The sweetness here feels closer to a ripe Auslese (Thomas Haag says it has 90 g/l residual sugar), but it's nicely balanced with a very polished, glossy mouthfeel and impressive length.
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2011 Schloss Lieser Riesling Kabinett trocken 90 Points
Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
A scent of bright florality and orchard fruits suggests something sweeter, but it's bracingly dry on the palate, though never austere. Thomas Haag mentions that this comes from higher yielding younger vines at a higher altitude, as older vines in a higher end vineyard would not provide for such a light, delicate wine. It's very light on its feet, lean but complex with great purity and a really filigreed, crystalline texture. Lovely.
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