Mature Burgundy @ Medlar (Upstairs)

The Medlar, London
Tasted Thursday, October 10, 2013 by SimonG with 491 views

Flight 1 (1 Note)

  • 1995 Philipponnat Champagne Brut Clos des Goisses 90 Points

    France, Champagne

    Quite honeyed on the nose. Fine bubbles. Honeyed palates too. Elegant, signs of maturity but feels in an adolescent limbo between youth and maturity. More on the attack/front end here, finishing a little short. Not as good currently as the 88 a couple of weeks ago. Focuses nicely with air. Fine. Needs a little longer to develop a bit more complexity through the mid-palate and finish. ***(1/2)

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Flight 2 (1 Note)

Crab raviolo with samphire, brown shrimps, fondue of leeks and bisque sauce

Flight 3 (4 Notes)

Partridge boudin blanc with Savoy cabbage, bacon and carrot purée

  • 1971 Domaine Henri Lamarche Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru La Grande Rue 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Pale garnet. Smells lovely. Still a touch of strawberry fruit, very fragrant with some Lapsang coming though. Very pretty. Sweet-fruited attack, quite high acidity, silky smooth. Maybe starting to lose a little stuffing, but who cares. ****

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  • 1978 Domaine Henri Lamarche Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru La Grande Rue 93 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru

    Mid garnet, slightly darker on the nose too cf the 71. A bit more smoke and spice. Quite plush feeling. Fuller, quite vigorous on. The attack. Getting there! ***(*)

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  • 1986 Domaine Jean-Marc / Thomas Bouley Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes 87 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru

    Again, quite full and spicy. Quite dark-fruited on the nose too. Nice fruit on the attack. A little dry on the finish. Not the class of the Grand Rue or the exuberant body of the Ampeau. Ok, but left a bit behind in the company. ***

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  • 1982 Robert Ampeau & Fils Beaune 1er Cru Clos du Roi 90 Points

    France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Beaune 1er Cru

    A little flatter on the nose initially and a touch lactic. Brighter and slightly lighter red fruit. Again, quite positive on the attack. A little tight/pinched through the mid-palate to a leaner/harder finish. Very good but lacks the class of the Grand Rue. Still jolly drinkable though and really comes into its own with food - seems to negate the pinch and sweeten the front end. Far better and beginning to hold its own in the company. After the food though it seems a little blowsy and lacking finesse. **** with food, *** either side.

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Flight 4 (6 Notes)

Roast grouse with game chips, bread sauce, pate and damsons

Flight 5 (1 Note)

Cheese

  • 1986 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux Clos du Bourg 90 Points

    France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray

    Light gold. A touch of botrytis on the nose and lots of bruised apple. Sweet attack but stunning acidity that takes over and rather dominates. Just about works with the cheese, but this could do with a bit more sugar. Good though, and certainly refreshing. ***1/2

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Closing

Another fun evening. The Leroy Genevrieres and the two Lamarche stared (the 71 having the edge on the 78 for me on the night) with the Jadot showing well too. A definite 76 character in flight four which generally underwhelmed. As ever, thanks to all...

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