Southern Rhone and Thereabouts

• 2011 Mas des Bressades Costières-de-Nîmes Blanc Cuvée Tradition

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes

  Full yellow. Pungent, high toned aromas. Full entry, off dry. Flowers, honey, ripe stone fruit and soil finish. Really quite good, not overly oily like so many of these Marsanne-Rousanne blends.

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• 2012 Domaine Amido Lirac

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Lirac

  Medium center. Blackberry and lavender. Middle weight, smooth entry. Ripe but not sweet fruit, good grip and tobacco leaf to close. Early drinkability and very good value.

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• 2010 Mas Carlot Costières-de-Nîmes Les Enfants Terribles

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Costières-de-Nîmes

  Ruby, lighter edge. All garrigue and anise on the nose. Lighter weight, crisp black fruit that fades quickly and veers toward olive and herbs. Not enough substance to recommend this, but might be okay in the context of food.

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• 2010 Domaine Chante Cigale Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Even ruby throughout. Black cherry aromas. Elegant weight and feel, nice ripeness and balance with fine acidity and good tannic structure, no undue weight or sweetness. Seems like a good amount of Mourvedre gives it its structure. Savory, classic. Not in the least flashy or new fangled, but very satisfying.

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• 2010 Domaine Monpertuis (Paul Jeune) Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Classique

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Light ruby with fading edge. Riper cherry and potpourri-very enticing. Sappy, spicy red fruit, citrus and good acidity for a lively feel. Despite all this, it still seems simple at this point, but I like the components and can see further development possible.

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• 2010 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Crau

  France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape

  Light red, paler rim. For its color, it packs surprising punch and weight. Backward but lush feel, brown spice, bark, rising tannins and a good dose of licorice toward the end. A very classic, restrained Vieux Telegraphe that needs plenty of time.

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Have Rhone producers begun to pull back the throttle and show a little more restraint on the alcohol, or was this just an atypical group of wines? Whatever the answer, I was pleased that "alcohol" and "heat" took a break from my notes regarding this flight.